Hongfu FM079

Who are you (no off-topic talk please)

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Klaster_1
Posts: 779
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

The Fibrelyte chainring I put on relatively recently because of a delaminated tooth? It delaminated too, no idea when exactly. A handful of times I rode the bike this year were fine, then it hang up on a stand for a couple of weeks to put new shifters/cables on. When I finally forced myself to setup the FD, the chain kept jumping/clicking, after close inspection it was a tooth catching the chain. Anyone has suggestions on what to do now? Last time I filed the tooth down, which degraded shifting and caused severe rub. Current situation might be better, maybe put glue between the layers and compress them together?

This is depressing, I'm starting to think Vumaquad wasn't such a good idea given the very limited chainring choice. With aluminium chainrings, the only other option not to gain weight (442g without BB) is THM Clavicula SE. Clavicula Classic, EC90SL, Lightning are all heavier and the frame won't accept BB30 Red. Going 1x is an option too (3T Bailout, stock 39t ring, XDR driver) and cheaper.

Edit: e*13 XCXr with 38t chainring (398g) is on par with 1x Vumaquad (28g esitamted 38 FL chainring - 363+8+28).
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by Weenie


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Klaster_1
Posts: 779
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

It took a while, but the bike has been assembled back. I'm concerned about revised front shifting and if it won't be much to my liking, will try 1x road. Maybe I'll manage to ride tomorrow. The scale measures ~35g less than the spreadsheet (5706g).
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This saves 1.5g
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Hongfu FM079 weight

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Klaster_1
Posts: 779
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

Did a couple of small rides this week, the 40cm c-c bar feels fine.
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Hongfu FM079
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kidrob
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Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2017 9:06 am
Location: Belgium

by kidrob

Beautiful, well done!

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Klaster_1
Posts: 779
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

kidrob wrote:
Thu May 09, 2019 1:11 pm
Beautiful, well done!
Thanks! Comments in this thread are rare :lol: Probably because most of my photos are so bad.

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jroy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Jul 20, 2016 8:45 pm

by jroy

Klaster_1 wrote:
Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:54 pm
Some updates:
1. RD hanger still in progress, I'm at the fitting stage, this and that are not exactly right and it takes a while to print, tap and check. Finding material is challenging too! The company I plan to CNC hanger at advised to use 7005 or 7075 aluminium alloy, but they can't source either at the moment, the best they can offer is 2024. The aluminium plant in my city is the second largest, but that does not help at all.
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What came about of this custom hanger? Any luck.

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Klaster_1
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

jroy wrote:
Thu May 09, 2019 1:36 pm
What came about of this custom hanger? Any luck.
Sure, here's a photo. DM hanger saves 12g from RD (139g) and a wash for frame weight. Shifting is wonky sometimes (certain small to big cogs lag or don't shift), but I attribute that to Powercordz and not enough fine tuning.
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Konsta
Posts: 16
Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2012 9:51 am
Location: Helsinki, Finland

by Konsta

Klaster_1 wrote:
Thu May 09, 2019 1:30 pm
Thanks! Comments in this thread are rare :lol: Probably because most of my photos are so bad.
Your photos are not bad and I for example follow your projects with great interest but just never have commented. This is a great bike and I’m always interested in seeing pics of your bikes in those surroundings. What views you have there! Krasnoyarsk on first thought seems such a surprising place for a weight weenie to live in. But on second thought why not. Keep up the good work please!

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DOUG
Posts: 286
Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2016 9:54 pm

by DOUG

Bike looks great @Klaster_1.

5.7kg is super impressive for a disc bike.

How are those KCNC rotors working for you? I still have a set of the Kasditors floating around in the garage and have considered trying them again with a new set of Swissstop Organic pads. Have been running the Swisstop pads for a while now on the Evo and have been really happy with them.

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Klaster_1
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

@Konsta weightweenies are everywhere people ride bikes ;)

DOUG wrote:
Mon May 13, 2019 11:42 pm
How are those KCNC rotors working for you?
The rotor has been fine, it does the job and causes no trouble, at 65kg I don't require much of stopping power either. And it's the only part - except for frame - that's left from the original 2014 build.

Oh, and I lapsed and ordered the 1x kit: 3T Bailout, XDR driver, ST-R9170 and 38t Fibrelyte.

TheOnlyAaron
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Joined: Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:28 am
Location: Singapore

by TheOnlyAaron

Woah. I can't believe I just found this thread. Keep up the amazing posts and I look forward to your final dropout, perhaps engraving your name would make it even more special.

Kazyole
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2013 1:45 am
Location: NYC

by Kazyole

I really like this frame. Super clean lines.

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Klaster_1
Posts: 779
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

Today I received a ST-R9170 and attempted to disassemble it. To remove Di2 guts, you need to either:
a) Cut the wires. This would allow to pull the lever buttons block off. If you are careful and use heat shrink, put together result will be OK, but not as new.
b) Disassemble lever buttons block, like in this blog post, and solder out the wires.

Both approaches still leave the issue of top button assembly, which doubles as lever "cap". If removed, it would leave a nasty gap, open for elements and your hands. Same as lever buttons block, it's sealed and would require proficiency with razor to disassemble. A custom 3D printed cap can serve as a replacement, but the shape is way too complex, I'd have to spend a lot of hours iterating in CAD/print/fit cycle.

So:
a) Remove what can be removed with a screwdriver, save ~7.5g.
b) Remove everything, design a custom top cap, save ~15g.
c) Leave the poor lever alone :D

I think Schmolke carbon clamp would not fit, the part closest to nut should be about 17mm, but ST-R9170 clamp recess tapers from 15mm to 12mm and, unlike with ST-R9120, there's less material to remove.
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MichaelK
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2018 4:50 pm

by MichaelK

Does the lever not come away from the body at all?

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Klaster_1
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Russia

by Klaster_1

MichaelK wrote:
Mon May 27, 2019 4:49 pm
Does the lever not come away from the body at all?
It does, you can remove C-clips from lever pivot axle ("A" on photo) and press the axle out, as described in dealer's manual. The wire is still routed behind another axle ("B"), which servers as spring stop. I'm not sure it's possible to press it out and in, and even if it is, you'd have to put two springs back together.
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by Weenie


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