Moderator: Moderator Team
Got some KCNC pad holders for $50 with pads that should fetch $20 or so.
KCNC Pad Holders with Hardware @26g:
Super Record Pad Holders with Hardware @ 46g:
You did post a nice review on the cages right here. My bad for not checking first.
IMHO I think this is probably one of the best looking Ti build in this forum, congrats!
Your setup is spot on, beautiful
Btw, sorry to derail the build thread.
I'm keen to understand your take on eTap vs Campy mechanical?
I'm considering going eTap on an up-coming project, but my other builds are full Campy.
Wireless is a big plus but my primary concern is the shifting speed, accuracy etc..
Would appreciate your feedback since you've gone thru both groups..
Here's my feedback on another thread:
RyanH wrote:I got these on Thursday of last week and have about 250 miles on them. General impression is that they work very well. The arms are very rigid, which could mean that the amount of deflection they're willing to take is less than Mandibles, for example. With Purist bottles they insert in and out very smoothly.
Compared to the Tune Wassertrager cages
They are not finicky about bottle circumference and they don't vibrate visibly when riding. With the Tune cages you can see the bottle move about.
Compared to Arundel Mandibles
They don't quite have the death grip. The arms are much more rigid and have less give, which makes them feel very sturdy but I believe jamming a bottle in sideways could cause them to fracture. They are a little more particular about bottle insertion angle but not nearly as much as the Tune cages.
I think it took about two weeks to get them in Los Angeles but I was not given any communication that they were on their way. Installation specifies 1.5nm of torque and using carbon paste on both sides of the cage to prevent bolt backing out. For good measure, I put loctite blue.
Overall, I'm very pleased with these cages. They really don't give up much to the Mandibles and are a fraction of the weight.
Regarding eTap vs Campy Mechanical
RyanH wrote:I wrote somewhere else that electronic vs mechanical is like the difference of a high end sports car kitted with paddle shifters or a great manual transmission. IMO, paddle shifters are great, but ultimately, I find myself just using the automatic feature of them (not an option on bikes atm). Manual transmission does the same thing but has a different feel. At the end of the day, it comes down to what you prefer. The only thing that electronic really provides over mechanical is auto-trim (Di2 and maybe EPS) or on the fly adjustments (eTap).
I spent quite a while setting up Super Record (Chorus FD) and I was blown away at how good the shifting was as well as how satisfying it was to use after being on eTap for over 4 months. I'll probably run eTap on the race bike and SR on the every day bike. With a race car, it'd be the same way.
To build on that, there's a few situations where being able to dump a handful of gears is really nice/necessary. One situation in particular that highlighted this need well was riding fireroads. A steep pitch and a poorly timed shift sequence could mean getting off the bike. That's no so much to do with the speed of the RD as much as electronic lacks the ability to dump gears like mechanical. Don't worry about the speed of the RD, it was never an issue when riding on challenging terrain in fast paced group rides. If you notice it, it'll be when you're putzing around at 15mph with nothing else to think about. Accuracy was flawless and the shifting action was brain dead simple. The only quibble I had was that if you lose track of where you are, you can inadvertently shift to the big ring when you were already in the small since the action is the same.
It comes down to, are you a paddle shifter guy or a manual transmission guy?
With that in mind, I heard the J&L's were only a few grams heavier and had a clever design, so I went ahead an purchased them. Getting them in, they look like they have some thoughtful details:
The nut is on the non-threaded end and rotates against the cap, not the dropouts. Brass washer is a nice touch:
Butted rod and knurled ends:
O-Ring at the end to keep it from backing out:
Weight without springs:
I greased the threads and the dropouts. I figured I'd go for broke and use them with the RZRs, which are finicky as is due to their smooth hub interface which lends itself to creaking without high clamping force.
I did a 70 mile test ride before my 114 mile adventure on Saturday. That went fine but on Saturday as it heated up, I began getting the annoying click/creak. I went to tighten them and they didn't want to budge. Seems they seized a bit and can use grease somewhere else. When I got back to the car, they definitely didn't want to budge coming off. Maybe copper paste will resolve that?
RyanH wrote:That went fine but on Saturday as it heated up, I began getting the annoying click/creak.
That's the worst... always ruins my mood when I have to stop - loosen and retighten for that reason. I'm a bit of a Skewer nut - I just keep always ordering new kinds. Brass instead of plastic/nylon usually gives me no issue... weird that these did for you...
Finally got around to upgrading my Speedplays to Ti Bowties. These came from Toronto Cycles and fit perfectly. Got the black versions for a nice stealth look.
Ti Bowties with Ti screws @ 21g
Steel bowties removed:
Loc-Tite the screws:
Off with the old, on with the new:
Black Ti spindles and Black Ti Bowties @ 152g:
Overall savings was 70g over the Chromoly that I had on there.
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