Third Time's a Charm: Litespeed T3
Moderators: MrCurrieinahurry, maxim809, Moderator Team
^ having done eroica ca a few weeks back I will concer -10 grades+ on gravel is no fun.. X5million on a 30+ year old bike on 25s
2024 BMC TeamMachine R Building
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault - completed project, full Xplr package
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault - completed project, full Xplr package
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If you can manage it financially the best option is to have two bikes. One with narrow tires and rim brakes for fast group rides. Another bike with disk, fat tires, and climbing gearing for bad road surface and exploring.
Another way to look at it is this. If 95% of your rides don’t need a disk brake, would you be happy riding a disk 100% of the time?
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Another way to look at it is this. If 95% of your rides don’t need a disk brake, would you be happy riding a disk 100% of the time?
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Another suggestion to your narrow/wide tire dilemma. I have an Ergon suspension seatpost (genuine unit, not a knock off). This seatpost was tested in the lab and scored at the top. It really works on badly rutted/weathered/chip seal/dirt roads. It has the same effect as running a super wide tire at low pressure. For tires I’m running 23mm front (25mm actual) and 25mm rear (27mm actual), at 90/85 psi. This tire combo is fast and the suspension seatpost makes the tires feel much bigger than they really are. So perhaps you can buy this seatpost and run it with your 22/23 tires.
Here’s the test report. I have the one with the setback which should offer even more compliance.
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear ... vel-46208/
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Here’s the test report. I have the one with the setback which should offer even more compliance.
https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/gear ... vel-46208/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Parlee’s post has a little of that action going on...not as much obviously ..
2024 BMC TeamMachine R Building
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault - completed project, full Xplr package
2018 BMC TImeMachine Road
2002 Moots Compact-SL- getting aero look makeover
2019 Parlee Z0XD - "classified"
2023 Pivot E-Vault - completed project, full Xplr package
You got to be f*&#ing kidding me... after like 5 bottom bracket swaps I finally figured out its not the BB (and it's not a crack).
I first checked with calipers the ID of the shell, which turned out to be, if anything on the tight side:
PF30 is supposed to be 46mm +/- 0.05mm I believe. So, wtf, why can I press in the Wheels mfg BB by hand? Well...
So, after taking it out, which was an utter bitch with loctite, I put it back in with a ridiculous amount of copper paste. Of course, no changed. Fine, I was getting the SRM back today so I figured maybe it was the red cranks after all.
SRM came today and off to the bike room:
Back to the wheels mfg BB, Hollowgram was a bit resistant to going into its home. Rubber mallet coerced it. Happy with the tight fit, I was thinking there's no way this is creaking now. Lift up the bike and apply force like before...click. F*&#!!
At this point, I'm giving up hope and resigning to the idea my frame is dead. There was one thing I had checked though and I guess I might as well since I need to adjust the FD... The bottle cages and clamp.
Sure enough:
Quiet... Finally quiet...and a completely and utterly perplexed Ryan. Never in a million years would I have thought that was going to fix it.
I first checked with calipers the ID of the shell, which turned out to be, if anything on the tight side:
PF30 is supposed to be 46mm +/- 0.05mm I believe. So, wtf, why can I press in the Wheels mfg BB by hand? Well...
So, after taking it out, which was an utter bitch with loctite, I put it back in with a ridiculous amount of copper paste. Of course, no changed. Fine, I was getting the SRM back today so I figured maybe it was the red cranks after all.
SRM came today and off to the bike room:
Back to the wheels mfg BB, Hollowgram was a bit resistant to going into its home. Rubber mallet coerced it. Happy with the tight fit, I was thinking there's no way this is creaking now. Lift up the bike and apply force like before...click. F*&#!!
At this point, I'm giving up hope and resigning to the idea my frame is dead. There was one thing I had checked though and I guess I might as well since I need to adjust the FD... The bottle cages and clamp.
Sure enough:
Quiet... Finally quiet...and a completely and utterly perplexed Ryan. Never in a million years would I have thought that was going to fix it.
Very nice. So it was the FD clamp rubbing against the frame? Was the clamp bolt not tight enough? Good find though and yes, a creak like that would drive me crazy.
Personally I prefer copper anti-seize paste over Loctite because Loctite bond is a bitch to break.
Personally I prefer copper anti-seize paste over Loctite because Loctite bond is a bitch to break.
I should have asked before if you noticed it shortly after the 9150 swap, because it seemed to me that it popped up around that time. I guess a push on each side would flex the tube just enough to make it pop once.
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6. ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record
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The wheels MFG adaptor relies on clamping the shell more than an interference fit with the shell doesn't it? Glad you found the issue tho, can you have a Ti braise-on lug added
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I sold my favorite Moots because of a mystery creak. After buying another Moots I realized you should never grease a Thomson post in a Moots frame.RyanH wrote: ↑Fri May 04, 2018 9:06 pmYou got to be f*&#ing kidding me... after like 5 bottom bracket swaps I finally figured out its not the BB (and it's not a crack).
Quiet... Finally quiet...and a completely and utterly perplexed Ryan. Never in a million years would I have thought that was going to fix it.
For creaks, Ti is the worst, man.
Could you elaborate on that? What was the problem of applying grease to the seat post?beeatnik wrote:
I sold my favorite Moots because of a mystery creak. After buying another Moots I realized you should never grease a Thomson post in a Moots frame.
For creaks, Ti is the worst, man.
I used to install my aluminum seatposts dry in my Moots frames but I'd swap out posts often enough that it wasn't an issue. Once I decided, to permanently ride a Thomson Masterpiece, I used carbon paste (based on some possibly dubious advice) as I sensed there was some slipping. At some point, the bike developed an intermittent creak, mostly when climbing (saddle or out). I stripped the bike and creak remained. Became convinced there was a crack but had it ruled out by the dealer. Sold the frame, bought a new Moots. Creak returned. Only after a few weeks did I realize I was using the same Thomson post and I hadn't wiped it down. Cleaned the post; creak disappeared.
Recently a pal's RSL was creaking up a storm. His wrench was convinced that his White Industries crank wasn't properly installed (you know, that goofy M30). They went through that whole song and dance. Finally, he listened to me and removed the post. His wrench reluctantly lubed it with anti-seize (had grease in there previously); creak disappeared.
Short story long, with a Ti frame it's always the quick release.
Recently a pal's RSL was creaking up a storm. His wrench was convinced that his White Industries crank wasn't properly installed (you know, that goofy M30). They went through that whole song and dance. Finally, he listened to me and removed the post. His wrench reluctantly lubed it with anti-seize (had grease in there previously); creak disappeared.
Short story long, with a Ti frame it's always the quick release.
Last edited by beeatnik on Sat May 05, 2018 6:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
@pdlpsher1 what happened to your Flite's rails? The clamp area is so short, mine looks nothing like that.
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