Colnago C60 SR Build - 7KGs - New Enve and Tubular Goodness

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alistaird
Posts: 190
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2016 8:21 pm

by alistaird

welchy wrote:
Calnago wrote:Agreed, the logos are far too strong and the white in my eyes looks tacky. I'll be going all-black saddle whatever I choose, the preference being on a 'pressure-relief' channel so my crown jewels remain functional after long rides! Open to any suggestions here to be honest.


It might be sacrilege but have you thought about a Rido saddle? Very comfortable IMHO.

A

by Weenie


1415chris
Posts: 1244
Joined: Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:59 am
Location: Surrey UK

by 1415chris

Bikehardest based in Germany, mentioned before.
I've been sourcing black Ti bolts from them. Speaking about Ti application, I've been always using Ti bolts on all my bikes road & mtb, with no issues whatsoever.
These from bikehardest been on a quite few stems, over about 4 seasons and they still look good.
For bottle cages, aluminium is the way to go, lighter, cheaper than Ti and strong enough.

Nice bike, btw.

welchy
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

alistaird wrote:
welchy wrote:
Calnago wrote:Agreed, the logos are far too strong and the white in my eyes looks tacky. I'll be going all-black saddle whatever I choose, the preference being on a 'pressure-relief' channel so my crown jewels remain functional after long rides! Open to any suggestions here to be honest.


It might be sacrilege but have you thought about a Rido saddle? Very comfortable IMHO.

A


Thanks for the tip, but I'd probs go with any manufacturer that offers a plain cutout centre as that works fine for me. That Rido is a little too unaesthetically pleasing I'm no gunna lie!

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alistaird
Posts: 190
Joined: Thu Jul 21, 2016 8:21 pm

by alistaird

I agree they are a bit strange but the Lite is more "normal " and still comfortable.

A

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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

welchy wrote:Also on the bottle cage front Calnago.. They didn't actually come with bolts supplied? I bought it from the LBS and the packaging definitely didn't / never would have had bolts supplied. Maybe it's only on the DAVE-O?!

Hmmm, any Arundel cages I've gotten, probably a dozen or so evenly split between Mandibles and Dave-O's have always come with bolts.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

welchy
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

My BB has started to creak a dream and I was thinking of a C Bear as a replacement, now I'm runnig Campag SR so believe I need the following:

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/C-Bear ... acket/FNKE

C-BEAR BB86.5 ULTRA TORQUE CERAMIC BOTTOM BRACKET

Do I need to get Ultra Torque cups as wel?

https://www.sigmasports.com/item/Campag ... -Cups/19FD

Isthere a cheaper method of doing this?

Cheers all :)

welchy
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

Bump - pretty sure given by the current noises this has really givn up the ghost, any help much appreciated!

rexyi1990
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Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2018 3:05 pm

by rexyi1990

Pretty awesome looking

welchy
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

Cheers man, still going strong although looking a wee bit different at the moment with a Selle Italia Flite SLR saddle and some Edco Wheels. I had to flog the Campag Boras to go towards a deposit for a house!haha.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkYXYCZnVgN ... _copy_link

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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

My go to for Campy installs is always the Campy cups now, unless the BB shell is really messed up, then I might look at alternatives.
Image
But the way, the cups you show in the pic are for threaded BB’s, you would want the cups above for your bike. Basically just a few things I might do in your case...
1) Remove the cups that are currently pressed into the Colnago Threadfit cups.
2) Remove the Colnago Threadfit cups, apply some Morgan Blue Aquaproof Paste to the threads, or other antiseize compound, then reinstall to the proper torque specs. I’m only putting in this step to rule out the possibility that the Threadfit cups may be loose or not torqued to spec etc. and this is a good time to do that. You’ll need the Threadfit cup tool.
3) install the new cups with a decent press. I’ve just used a little Aquaproof Paste on the mating surfaces on my my C60 and there’s been not a peep. I did not use retaining compound )Loctite 609).
4) I suppose it’s possible that your SR CULT bearings are worn out but I’ve just never seen a set of worn out Cult bearings. I just clean them out (while on the crank) with degreaser and rinse and blow them out with compressed air so they spin like a dental tool with no foreign particles causing any sort of gritty feeling. Then add a couple drops of synthetic oil to the bearings. Coat the inside of the Campy cups and the outer surface of bearings with a good grease and reinstall. Oh, clean up the birth bolt threads before install and torque to the spec of 40-60Nm. I usually do 50Nm, middle of the road.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

welchy
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

Thanks a bunch Calnago, I went ahead and bit the bullet on the CC-Bear BB and it arrived yesterday, I may go ahead and buy the Campag ones as well just to give the shop two options. Getting the shop to do it as I don't have the Campag/Nago tool or a pressfit tool!

Intersted on your opinion on the standard BB over C Bear, not sure what to go for at all now! Usually treat your words as golden!haha

Zakalwe
Posts: 549
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:15 pm

by Zakalwe

I can’t see what there is to gain from using the C Bear cups in place of Campy

welchy
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

I guess this is the most asked question going, but I'm trying to shift some weight from the bike with a few Hill Climbs coming at the end of the season and I'm hoping for some good weight saving options for lowest spend.

On a £1 to 1 Gram type cost what do people see as the best opportunities?

Stupidly i'm not running latex tubes, as latex and clinchers isnt always recommended. Before anybody asked i've cooked some wheels and stuck latex tubes to the rims which was lucky as they never burst!

Any really clean ways to reduce the weight from you guys?

So far, the easiest way to drop quick weight for me (100grams) will be spending a whopping £16.89 on two Continental Supersonic inner tubes)! But quick weight savings :)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkYXYCZnVgN ... _sheet[url][/url]
Last edited by welchy on Wed Sep 05, 2018 3:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Calnago
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

welchy wrote:Thanks a bunch Calnago, I went ahead and bit the bullet on the CC-Bear BB and it arrived yesterday, I may go ahead and buy the Campag ones as well just to give the shop two options. Getting the shop to do it as I don't have the Campag/Nago tool or a pressfit tool!

Intersted on your opinion on the standard BB over C Bear, not sure what to go for at all now! Usually treat your words as golden!haha
For this install I would always prefer the Campy cups over any third party solution. Not that I’ve heard or experienced anything bad about C-Bear, but you won’t find any better bearings than you have right now on your SR cranks. The cups themselves are not that expensive, are manufactured to very good tolerances, and the all alloy Campy cups press into the alloy Colnago Threadfit BB very nicely. And once in, provided they are pressed in straight and aligned with each other, they should last a very long time. I’ve not had a single problem with mine. I’ve cleaned them out once, as part of regular maintenance etc.
Perhaps you could really clean out the inner surfaces of the cups and post a picture. There shouldn’t be any signs of the Black anodization wearing off. If there is, then I would for sure replace them, and it may also be an indication that the cups weren’t installed very well in the first place.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

welchy
Posts: 186
Joined: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:04 pm

by welchy

I've gone ahead and ordered the Campy cups and BB Bearings and will be sending the C-Bear components back :thumbup:

Away in Italy this weekend - unfortunately without the bike and when i'm back on Tuesday it will be going in for a service, just praying it is not the CULT bearings but I would highly doubt these have seen damage.

I am guessing I have done around 4-5K KMs on the C60 now in very much variable weather conditions so seems about right for the BB.

by Weenie


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