Litespeed Ghisallo 1x10 build (3.76kg or 8.29 lbs but not finished!!!!!!)

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punny
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Joined: Mon Jun 12, 2017 1:21 pm

by punny

Nice bike the j&l pulleys is good? i want buy ... :lol:

by Weenie


craciunptr
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 8:32 pm

by craciunptr

A good rule of thumb is to align the tip of the levers with the bottom of the drops or so I have heard

Jenmoss
Posts: 97
Joined: Wed Oct 25, 2017 10:15 am

by Jenmoss

Can I ask , did you use spacers on the back of the chainring bolts or did you just put them straight on no spacers? I’m really interested in the thm set up .

Also regarding the vuma quad could you explain how you put that chainring on regarding spacers and the washer/spacer on the long chainring bolt . I managed to break a fibre lyte chain ring . First one ever according to Stephen at fibre lyte. He’s sending a replacement. Top man . Want to make sure I set it up right this time .

I’m going single ring on the Thm.
I have had no issues with the sisl 2 just using single chainring bolts but Stephen mentioned that spacers might be a good idea to make sure that there is no movement at the back of the bolt that could do damage. Like I said I have been fine with the sisl 2. What’s your view

Cheers :thumbup:

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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

@Jenmoss - yes I used carbon spacers provided by Fibrelyte on the back of the chainring bolts. I Have had bad luck on 2 different sets of carbon cranks with carbon spyders. The first was on a generation 1 Raceface Next crankset. I stood up and attempted to power over a hill while mountain biking. I ended up snapping the spyder where the chainring bolt met the chainring. I did the same thing on a THM Classic DP mountain bike crankset a couple years later. A buddy of mine has an M3 crank with aluminum spyder and has had no issues running a single ring without the spacers. I would take the small hit on weight gain and use spacers if running Vumaquads or THM SE/Classic cranks. For the Vumaquad, Stephen sent me a custom carbon spacer for the long bolt at no extra charge. He is so cool.
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Jenmoss
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by Jenmoss

godzuki26 wrote:@Jenmoss - yes I used carbon spacers provided by Fibrelyte on the back of the chainring bolts. I Have had bad luck on 2 different sets of carbon cranks with carbon spyders. The first was on a generation 1 Raceface Next crankset. I stood up and attempted to power over a hill while mountain biking. I ended up snapping the spyder where the chainring bolt met the chainring. I did the same thing on a THM Classic DP mountain bike crankset a couple years later. A buddy of mine has an M3 crank with aluminum spyder and has had no issues running a single ring without the spacers. I would take the small hit on weight gain and use spacers if running Vumaquads or THM SE/Classic cranks. For the Vumaquad, Stephen sent me a custom carbon spacer for the long bolt at no extra charge. He is so cool.



I have the spacers , I have 5 over from the broken chainring so I have the option to use them when i out on the THM .

I’m just waiting for my new vuma chainring for my trek so I’ll do the same there.

Stephen pointed out that the rear chainring bolt just needs to not have any movement. I have had no issues running the single with no spacers on the sisl2. The bolts seem very nice fit .

I ordered some really nice single chainring bolts just before I went to Nice. They have star hex key both ends ,which is much better than the stupid slots that most chainring bolts have . I will see how they fit on the thm . If there is movement I will use the spacers . Stephen said that’s its very minimal chance that movement will occur. I’ll see how the bolts fit but I’m tending towards safety and spacers I don’t want to break another chainring and definitely don’t want to break my thm . I’ll see if I can get the same bolts but normal size ....if so I will post a link. Sram bolts hex key both ends it’s a much easier. I don’t understand the point of the slottted rear bolts . It just makes things awkward fiddling with the stupid tool to stop the bolt moving . Hex keys both ends is the way to go.


When I broke my chainring I was on the flat putting the gas down on the 11 at the back. I was really lucky not to crash . I thought my chain had just come off but when I looked down I saw what I can only call “carbon devastation :D “ The chainring cracked the carbon on the front mech that I had not taken off. I had to walk home about a mile in my socks :(

Thanks for advice and it’s definitely some good info for any weenies who plan on running a single carbon chainring. It’s not so simple especially the vuma quad.

Thank you , your bikes are are magnificent. Just inspirational.

JerryLook
Posts: 307
Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2017 2:18 am

by JerryLook

I’m interested in the Tune brake cable outers mentioned earlier in the thread. I notice they are still available on eBay.

How is the durability with these? Are they just good for use with powercordz, or with regular cables as well.

And sorry if I missed it somewhere, but what is the actual weight of the pieces you used?

I really enjoy reading your build threads Godzuki. The attention to detail is great.
2010 Orbea Opal 54cm
5.97kg

dereksmalls
Posts: 2261
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 9:20 pm
Location: New Zealand

by dereksmalls

Full set of Tune others on my Cannondale uncut for brakes and derailleur scans to 27gms. Using them with Campag cables

JerryLook
Posts: 307
Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2017 2:18 am

by JerryLook

Nice. Thanks for the info. I ordered a set to try out.
2010 Orbea Opal 54cm
5.97kg

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Klaster_1
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by Klaster_1

@godzuki26 do you have anything to comment about 1x Vumaquad besides what's above? How was the chainline? Been thinking about this for a while too.

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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

@Klaster-1 - it has been a while since I have even touched this bike. I originally chose the Vumaquad because it had a narrower qfactor compared to the THM crankset. I never had any issues with chain drop or crosschaining using this set up. However, I only rode this with an 11-23 cassette so I can not comment on how it will do with a larger cassette.
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coreyaugustus
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by coreyaugustus

One of the few rides where I think a 1x non-CX bike looks perfect. At that weight, you could probably get away with a full 53 up front unless you live near some serious inclines.

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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

@coreyaugustus - thanks for the compliments. I had a lot of fun putting this together. A 53 tooth 1x setup will not work too well where I live. There are too many hills and all my rides always started with a descent. I'm going to finally send my magnesium clinchers to Berd spokes to have built. Mag rims will match the dull ti finish of this bike and the white spokes will look good with the white Tune cables.....but I don't ride road anymore. Lol
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Quentin68850
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by Quentin68850

godzuki26 wrote:
Wed May 01, 2019 7:18 am
@coreyaugustus - thanks for the compliments. I had a lot of fun putting this together. A 53 tooth 1x setup will not work too well where I live. There are too many hills and all my rides always started with a descent. I'm going to finally send my magnesium clinchers to Berd spokes to have built. Mag rims will match the dull ti finish of this bike and the white spokes will look good with the white Tune cables.....but I don't ride road anymore. Lol
Hi, I'm really into your derailleur gear. Can you tell me how you make it so light?
With the parts and the detail.

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godzuki26
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by godzuki26

@Quentin68850 - Hello, thanks. I go into more detail on the thread below. Check it out :thumbup:

viewtopic.php?f=10&t=141018&start=525
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by Weenie


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