Trek Madone 7 Series H1

Who are you (no off-topic talk please)

Moderator: Moderator Team

User avatar
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:26 pm

by GorrGrimWolf

Last December I was looking for a frame that is a good all-rounder, is comfortable, has a big tyre clearance, is stiff enough for racing and can be used year-round. I always liked Trek and Emonda looked like a perfect fit. The H2 geo wasn't exactly to my liking, but since I wasn't really feeling comfortable on mine Venge, which was longer and lower, I though something little bit more relaxed should fit me well. I really liked Emonda's riding quality, but I never truly felt comfortable on the bike. I got feeling the reach of the bike wasn't right, but I wasn't sure if it's either too long or short. I tried couple of things and end up with conclusion the was to short and I need something longer.

I got lucky and seen second-hand Trek Madone H1 in 60 size. I though about it a lot and got feeling the bike would be touch too long, but I was guessing if I swap my beloved 130 stem for 120 I would be just fine. Truth is there is no need for me to use shorter stem as I just feel perfectly fine on the bike even with 130 stem. I think I would never guess I need 409mm of reach paired with 130 stem to not feel crumpled on the bike.


This version of Madone was always my dream. I started cycling at the same time as Trek has released this frame. I spent countless hours playing with Project One and looking into brochures. I end up with Madone 4.7. The frame was the oldschool non-aero design and I promised my self that one day I will ride the 7 Series. I think the circle is completed now. I would probably choose a different colors, but in flesh the paint job is really nice and unique. I got tired of seeing black, red and white bikes everywhere.

Made a lot of changes since I got this bike. Bontrager XXX stem, FC-9000, Fizik Volta saddle and Reynolds Aero 46 tubulars.

Frame, fork and hardware
Trek Madone 7 series H1 60 (w/o chain catcher, DuoTrap and w/ Di2 Cable Stops)..... 1,062g
Seat mast topper and saddle clamp hardware (135/20mm)..... 128g
Enduro Ceramic BB90....... 45g
Fork (Cut)..... 374g
Fork Compression Plug...... 27g
Full Headset...... 69g
DuoTrap Sensor..... 19g
S3 Chain catcher..... 11g
Subtotal: 1,735g

Groupset Shimano Ultegra 6870 Di2
Shifters Shimano Ultegra 6770 Di2..... 316g
RD Shimano Ultegra 6870 SS..... 258g
FD Shimano Ultegra 6870..... 138g
Crankset Shimano DA FC-9000 175 53/39..... 642g
Rear Brake Shimano DA BR-9010..... 138g
Front Brake Shimano DA BR-9010..... 158g
Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-25..... 228g
Chain Shimano CN-HG700 (cut)..... 248g
Cassette Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-25..... 228g
Di2 Junction Box A+B and Di2 Cables..... 53g
Battery SM-BTR2 + Trek Adapter..... 56g
Brake Cables + Housing..... 87g
Subtotal: 2,322g

Front Wheel
Reynolds Aero 46 Tubular..... ?
Maxxis Campione 25..... ?
Skewer..... 58g
Total Front Wheel Weight: 910g

Rear Wheel
Reynolds Aero 46 Tubular..... ?
Maxxis Campione 25..... ?
Skewer..... 61g
Total Rear Wheel Weight: 1,047g
Subtotal (wheels, tires and skewers)..... 1,957g

Finishing Kit
3T Rotundo Pro 42cm..... 253g
Bontrager XXX -7° 130mm..... 136g
Fizik Volta R3..... 235g
Look Keo 2 Max... 264g
Bontrager XXX..... 36g
Fizik Superlight..... 72g
Finishing kit subtotal: 994g

Total weight: 7,008g
Last edited by GorrGrimWolf on Wed Nov 23, 2016 11:28 am, edited 7 times in total.

User avatar
Posts: 1147
Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 6:06 pm

by Kayrehn

Wow that was brave to jump into a H1 fit using a 130mm - 17 degrees stem when you didn't feel exactly right on the Venge. Glad it worked out in the end! Yup mid-depth wheels are definitely much better for this frame.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

by Weenie

Posts: 253
Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2015 12:20 am

by nobuseri

Nice start and it looks great so far! Props on the large frame; I ride 60-63cm frames as well.
Cicli Barco XCr Road
Moots VaMoots
Parlee Z1
SuperX Hi-Mod Disc

User avatar
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:26 pm

by GorrGrimWolf

I really like the way this frame rides. It is shame I didn't try it earlier. I was scared of the rear brake position, but it is causing no problems. On the other hand I am cleaning my bike after every ride which probably helps. Also I went with Jagwire Link and it is a way to go for brake housing.

I wasn't entirely sure if tan walls will go with the frame colours, but I tried it and it looks great in my eyes. Also I am impress with the frame clearance. These tires looks more like 27c and there is plenty of clearance on both sides. I will go for mid-depth wheels, 45-55 is the sweet spot. Since I will both racing and training on the same wheels I will most probably go for clinchers.

It should have been little bit of a weight weenies project, but the frame is rather porky for 7 series and clinchers are also heavy so I will no longer aim for 6,8kg mark, but rather do this a workhouse bike with reliable components. Zipp SL Sprint stem and new Rotundo Pro bars are two items I am aiming next.


User avatar
Posts: 7339
Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm

by Calnago

Nice! Looks great, but that is one heck of a drop you've got going there. If that's what you like/need then so be it, but judging by the uncut steertube I'm thinking maybe you're still experimenting a bit. If it were mine, I'd put a Bontrager -7 degree stem on and angle the bars so that the drops are the same angle as the stem. The bars are pretty much at that angle now anyway. That should put everything in line with the top tube a bit more and if you were going to end up higher in the front anyway, that's a better way to get there than adding spacers and sticking with the -17. Just my opinion. Although it would raise the bars by close to 2cm just from that change alone, so if you really need the bars that low, then what you've got going on there right now is your best bet short of a supernegative "rise" track stem, which would start to look really funky. I can't imagine you wanting to be lower however?

And the tan sidewalls do look good with that frame, as does the white saddle. I think I might even go with some white bar tape on this build. But for the next photo... lose the ass saver, for the photo at least. The Trek racing frames look really good in a 60 H1 I think. As long as you can handle the short H1 headtube.

That's the shorter seatmast as well, isn't it? Perhaps the taller one would extend a bit further down giving it more of a flow rather than being bisected right in the middle if that makes sense.

That is my size, so I'm very particular when studying bikes in the same size range as mine. What is your saddle height and handlebar drop as it sits in the photo if you mind me asking. Actually, I'm going to include all that size related data in my post I just did because I think people like to know. Just haven't gotten to it yet. Enjoy it, it came out nice.
Colnago C64 - The Naked Build; Colnago C60 - PR99; Trek Koppenberg - Where Emonda and Domane Meet;
Unlinked Builds (searchable): Colnago C59 - 5 Years Later; Trek Emonda SL Campagnolo SR; Special Colnago EPQ

Posts: 327
Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2013 10:26 pm
Location: LA

by rheosibal

Oo this is nice.

imo for your new wheels (assault slg?), I vote gumwalls and destickered rims or if you keep the stickers then go for an all white or black bar tape w/o logos.
Instagram: joserheo

|| Mosaic RT-1 || Cannondale Evo || Cannondale CAAD10 ||

User avatar
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:26 pm

by GorrGrimWolf

Yes, I am still experimenting a little bit, but not by much. I have raised the handlebars by 1cm and I feel good on the bike. I always needed a lot of drop on my bikes, but I believe I am still relatively aero since I don't have a problems to ride with my arms parallel to the ground. Will end up with -10° PRO stem and 9cm dust cover. The should give me the same position as I have know only by few millimetres longer.

That is my current position on the Trek in aero tuck.

Regarding your question Calnago my measurements are below. I will also update the first post with this info since I also like to read how certain people sit's on the bike.

Height: 803mm
Saddle setback: 80mm
Handlebar drop: 130mm

But otherwise I am very happy with the look of the bike. I am surprised that frame in size 60 can look that good. As you said Trek's H1 bikes looks spectacular, but you need to handle the low headtube or size up.

Posts: 32
Joined: Tue May 01, 2012 12:48 am

by tlmsal

Really digging the look of this bike. Nice build!

User avatar
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:26 pm

by GorrGrimWolf

I wasnt able to buy the wheels I needed since I got my girlfriend a Bianchi. It is Impulso on Athena and it ruined my wheels budget... But it is worth it and I dont really have time to race this year anyway, so wheels are not super important.

But I was able to make some changes on the bike and hopefully to make look better. I had a dilema because I need to have my cockpit match and I hate 3T stems designs and love their Rotundo bars at the same time. So I needed to find a way around this and using one of the Trek's house brand made the difference brand bearable.


I didnt weight the Bontrager XXX in 130mm, but it seems lighter than previous 3T Arx at the same size. The design of the stem is perfect and I dont understand why they dont make them anymore. I got lucky on Ebay and pulled the trigger as soon as I saw it.

The Volta is a different story. I have tried 18 saddles as of 2012 and I dont count the stock ones I got with the bike. And none of them work. The closest to usuable I was with Specialized Toupe and Selle Italia Flite, but usually the edges of the saddle are chafing my perineum and it is really painful to ride. But Volta is different, the cone shape is not causing me any chafing and it is very comfortable.

The future changes are probably white handlebar tape and finally getting the fork cut + getting the longer seatmast cap. That should make the Madone look perfect and next season maybe some nice wheels.

Posts: 214
Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:05 am

by jdc5r

really like the look of tan wall tyres on alloy clinchers for some reason :)

nice bike too

User avatar
Posts: 126
Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2014 6:26 pm

by GorrGrimWolf

Again I managed to do few changes here and there. Couldn't resist the Dura-Ace crank any longer as the DA brakes on the bike were just a strange child, but with FC-9000 crankset it makes sense. Cut the fork and saved exactly 4 grams. But more importantly changed the handlebar to Fizik Superlight and the white just suits the bike better. I wish the Challenge's tan walls stay clean longer, but I would like to swap them later for Vittoria G+ as I like the color more.

Put almost 4,000 km on the bike and couldn't be happier. The geo suit's me perfectly, something I cannot say about Specialized bikes. The comfort is very good and the carbon Bontrager stem even helped with comfort in front. Emonda was probably stiffer and a touch more comfortable, but with a dead feel. Madone is more lively and bigger fun to ride.

I would like to change the pedals to PD-9000 and next year get the carbon wheels. Probably mid-profile clinchers. Was thinking about Roval CLX 40.


Posts: 35
Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2017 11:24 am
Location: Ghent Belgium

by GJMadone069

Nice, I like the current stem/bar combo.

User avatar
Posts: 1704
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:07 pm
Location: The Lone Star State

by FIJIGabe

Great looking bike. I've got a 60 H2 and would love to go with an H1, but I'm not there yet. Enjoy it!
Madone 9

Emonda SLR (under construction), Madone 5, Cobia. I own a lot of Treks.

Posts: 488
Joined: Fri Jun 05, 2015 11:05 pm

by Seedster

Really nice looking bike. Given the frame size, it hides the tall headtube well.

User avatar
Posts: 7231
Joined: Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:29 am
Location: Athens, Greece

by kgt

I prefer the very first version of it.

by Weenie

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Last post