How to lighten my R3?

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juuzo
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:19 pm

by juuzo

Hi, I just finished my build with new zipp 303 wheels and total weight was 6,84kg. Just thinking what is next step to lighten my bike. Any suggestions?

Image

mrfish
Posts: 1630
Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2007 12:49 pm
Location: Near Horgen, Switzerland

by mrfish

The short answer is that every part on that bike could be lighter. The challenge is balancing aesthetics, function, price and weight. For instance it's easy to get some CNC brakes which are very light, but which are rubbish for stopping. So you lose any marginal uphill gain on the first downhill corner.

You could make a $/g saved spreadsheet and prioritise that way, or you could just buy the lightest parts which are not crazy expensive and go from there. Fairwheel bikes has nice pictures and weights and is a good one stop shop, or if in Europe you could use Starbike who sponsors this site.

My priority list would be roughly:
1) Small cheap parts such as:
- Headset cap, expander, spacers, bolt
- Bar tape and end plugs
- Seat post clamp
- Bolts
- Tubs / Tyres and tubes
- Bottle cages
- Cables
- All the stuff you carry when you ride

2) Fit parts (assuming you're comfortable at the moment, otherwise these are the priority)
- Saddle
- Seatpost, stem, bars

3) Critical functional parts
- Pedals
- Shoes
- Helmet
- Crank*
- Brakes

Then groupset, wheels and frame

* The crankset is ugly. If you must keep it, at least get it painted black.

Bogan
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:47 pm
Location: Boganville, Australia

by Bogan

The crankset is not ugly. Rotor cranks are just functional/industrial looking. I have a set on one of my bikes. :)

I am finding that the $/gram is the critical thing. Especially if you are 95kg plus. I am currently looking at lightweight saddles and struggling to find a suitable shape that will take my weight, that isn't hideously expensive. Yet this will possibly be the best $/gram saving I will find over the SMP Composit I currently use. The $/gram on some of the cheaper components such as clamps, caps, cages and the like are not necessarily that great.

Re brakes, eecycleworks. Fantastic and they stop!
MAMIL? Never. O.F.I.L. yeh! (Old F**ker in Lycra)

juuzo
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:19 pm

by juuzo

Current build list:

Image

Svetty
Posts: 493
Joined: Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:06 pm
Location: Yorkshire - God's Own Country

by Svetty

The bike is fine apart from the fugly crankset. Just ride and enjoy it!

FIJIGabe
Posts: 1400
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:07 pm
Location: The Lone Star State

by FIJIGabe

You're riding Ultegra 6770, so I would suggest upgrading to DA9000 Di2. The beauty of e-tube is that you can reuse many of your current parts. Change out the rear derailleur and cassette first, then the front derailleur, and finally the shifters, as money allows.
Madone 9 https://goo.gl/7UwZpV
Crockett https://goo.gl/f5PdCN
Madone 5 https://goo.gl/cMdyFo

Madone 4, Cobia. I own a lot of Treks.

juuzo
Posts: 68
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:19 pm

by juuzo

Any suggestions what would be good crankset? 30mm axle and bbright compatible

paradawt
Posts: 331
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:03 pm
Location: Porto, Portugal

by paradawt

Pedals... Speedplay Zero TI axles.
Cannondale Supersix '10

amnesia
Posts: 57
Joined: Fri Feb 11, 2011 7:51 pm
Location: Bournemouth, UK

by amnesia

juuzo wrote:Any suggestions what would be good crankset? 30mm axle and bbright compatible



The Rotor 3D+ cranks now come with better (more subtle) graphics...

Here are mine with Praxis Works rings

Image


PS - I love your R3... I really want to get the frameset, but I don't like the current black & blue colours :(

Imaking20
Posts: 1538
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2011 5:19 am

by Imaking20

Image


Also, SRAM RED :D
Current:
T2

Retired:
Blue | Project C6.0 | Felt AR FRD | Colnago C59 NERO | 2014 S-Works Tarmac | S-Works Venge | Wilier Cento Uno SL | Tarmac SL2

rma
Posts: 165
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:17 pm
Location: Belo Horizonte, Brazil

by rma

Hello juuzo!

What a great bike you have! I have a 2012 R3 Team and I'm currently preparing a Di2 upgrade. I see that you had your frame drilled and removed the cable stops, right? Do you have any pictures and/or details about the process? Did you used the holes from the rivets or just did new ones? Did you made round 6mm or oval 6x8mm? What about the FD cable, is it leaving the frame via the already existent FD cable hole? Did you enlarge it or it will fit the wires? Give all the details (and pictures!) if you can!
Thanks!

lannes
Posts: 418
Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 9:51 pm

by lannes

Ax Lightness Rigid stem and 2100 seatpost
Ax Lightness Leaf saddle
Tufo Elite <160 tubulars
Pedals - Speedplay Nanogram

rma
Posts: 165
Joined: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:17 pm
Location: Belo Horizonte, Brazil

by rma

Zipp's 202
Dura-Ace 9070

chiumomo
Posts: 76
Joined: Tue May 29, 2012 1:38 pm

by chiumomo

KMC X10 sl
Sram Red XG 1090 cassette
Standard Q ring instead of aero

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