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@ SalsaLover My bulky ass need a bulky saddle, but I have had plans to try out the new Flite, it's also wide and hopefully better compatible with the seatpost. I'm having problems getting the Regale to stay level, because it's hard to tighten the front screw of the seatpost enough. There's just the finger screw... When the rear screw is tightened to 8Nm, the nose will point up sooner or later. The carbonFX rails are too tall for the seat post or something...
@ PSM rarely in Sweden, but hopefully Vätternrundan some year soon, if I'm ever quick enough to get the tickets before it is sold out...
@ TuplaO Thanks!
eurperg wrote:@ SalsaLover My bulky ass need a bulky saddle, but I have had plans to try out the new Flite, it's also wide and hopefully better compatible with the seatpost. I'm having problems getting the Regale to stay level, because it's hard to tighten the front screw of the seatpost enough. There's just the finger screw... When the rear screw is tightened to 8Nm, the nose will point up sooner or later. The carbonFX rails are too tall for the seat post or something...
Definitely the new flite 2013 is wide and comfortable and indeed looks more slender.
The secret about the seatpost is to first tighten the front bolt with the rear loose and then apply the high torque on the rear bolt, if it's not level enough repeat the process until it's good
Oh, and regarding your seatpost issue... you should be able to get your saddle to stay put indefinitely with that seatpost, with one caveat. The rails on that particular saddle are quite tall if I remember correctly, but I don't think that should make a difference. I believe the clamp will still "seat" properly if you try this: Keep in mind that it's a bit of trial and error till you get it right, but when you do, it will stay put. For the contact points of the clamp on the saddle rails, use carbon paste. But for the contact point of the bottom of the pivoting cradle where it slides around on the top of the seat post, try a thin layer of grease (carbon paste works too, but it will pivot easier with grease while you are "setting" it). This cradle needs to be able to pivot on this type of post design while you are tightening the rear bolt. Ok, here's where I think the little "trick" comes into play. You'll have an idea by now what it takes to tighten the rear bolt from your prior experience, and you also know by now that it's a guess as to where to start with the front burl nut. That nut will position the saddle initially and hopefully by the time you finish torqueing the rear bolt it will all be in exactly the position you want it to be, and will stay there. I'm sure you're aware that it has to be tilted a bit more downward at first than where you want it to be by the time it's tightened. So, pick a torque (you say you've used 8Nm, that's a lot... I'd try 5Nm max for now). Ok... now, here's the important part... as you are tightening the rear bolt, stop a couple of times before full torque and give the rear part of your saddle a good whack with your hand... I mean a hard whack. You will hear a cracking sound. That, is not your saddle breaking, rather it is the sound of the cradle slipping forward on the pivoting part (does that make sense). It is really the same principle as stress relieving the spokes in a wheel as you are building it. The pivoting part will reseat a bit. Keep doing that until you've reached your desired torque and there is no more "cracking" sounds when you bang on the rear of the saddle. It should stay put now. If you don't do the "cracking, whacking" part, that will happen as you ride it, and possibly loosen up. It's exactly why wheels that haven't been properly stress relieved during building might loosen up and need retruing. Try it... I'll bet it holds much better than it has been for you.
Remember, the front nut on the seat post only determines what angle the saddle will ultimately be when you finish tightening the rear bolt. Don't try to tighten them both evenly at the same time... it can't be done. Allowing the cradle to pivot will seat everything so that even force is being applied on the rails at both ends. Otherwise, too much force will be on the back versus the front, and when you hit your first bump while seated, it will crack, loosen up, pivot and start coming loose. Get it seated before you ride it. Shouldn't move after that. Haven't had to adjust mine once and I've hit some big craters. That applies both to my Colnago posts and the 3T Dorico LTD on my C59.
-2014 Cipollini Bond EPS | 2017 enigma echo SR11 | 2011 Time RXR ULTeam SR11 | 2010 Colnago EPS SR11 | 2013 Colnago C59 SR-EPS | 2011 Colnago Prestige Di2 | 2013 Specialized Shiv TT SWorks SR11
amazing bike in general too!
2012 Ridley Damocles RS
2012 Dekerf Team SST
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