Klaster_1's Specialized Aethos S-Works (4.99kg)

[Klaster_1]

Build list:

Klaster_1's Specialized Aethos S-Works with light tires (4830g):

Klaster_1's Specialized Aethos S-Works, with light tires (4830g)

Klaster_1's Specialized Aethos S-Works, with heavy tires (5020g):

Klaster_1's Specialized Aethos S-Works, with heavy tires (5030g)

Original first post:

In this thread, I'll document my new build, an Aethos S-Works. The plan is to move the parts from the good old FM079. Unfortunately, you can't order weight weenie bike parts to Russia at the moment, so for the first iteration I'll have to get by with what I have. No detailed scale shots either until I settle down.

[Maddie]

Going to be very interesting!

[mike]

Looking very nice!

[Klaster_1]

For BB cups, I'm going to reuse the BBInfinite BENG-PF-RD-BLK-ASMWS (62g). Unlike FM079 which uses a full-length Al insert for threads, the Aethos has individual threads on both shell sides (12mm long, btw). This means I can't run Di2 wiring as is without a spindle shield, which my cups didn't come with.

Aethos BB shell

FM079 BB shell

Just like @takolino, I plan to 3D-print my own shield. The cups don't have shelves on the inner surface, but there's 5 mm of thread dangling, so I'll put a sleeve over it. The shield outer diameter will be greater than the frame thread inner diameter, that's what the cut is for - so you could compress the sleeve during installation, reducing the diameter temporarily.

BENG-PF-RD-BLK-ASMWS spindle shield, version 1

The ABS shield should add ~5g. Wall thickness is 1 mm.

On a side note, the dangling cup thread serves no purpose, might as well cut it off.

[Klaster_1]

That's what looks like an EW-JC130 stuck in Enve handlebars. No idea how to remove it

[takolino]

I bet this will be good!
Good luck getting that out. If you can use the Di2 connecor puller, you may be able to pull it off the j-box. The risk is that junction might get stuck in the bar forever. I'd rather fish it out through the bar end.

[Klaster_1]

Another great job by the Birota (local bike shop), they managed to extract the wire. The other shop I asked for help gave up after looking at the mess for 10 seconds.

The spindle shield idea worked out well too.

Custom spindle shield

Custom spindle shield installed

[Klaster_1]

The Sigeyi direct mount hanger arrived today.

[kode54]

The Redshift direct mount hanger version has some reinforcement in the middle. I wonder if they did it because it bends?

I’ll take a pic and post later.

[Klaster_1]

The Redshift direct mount hanger version has some reinforcement in the middle. I wonder if they did it because it bends?

My custom FM079 hanger - which Sigeyi is similar to - worked flawlessly for three years, so I wouldn't worry about the hole.

[Klaster_1]

FD hanger removed.

[kode54]

The Redshift direct mount hanger version has some reinforcement in the middle. I wonder if they did it because it bends?

My custom FM079 hanger - which Sigeyi is similar to - worked flawlessly for three years, so I wouldn't worry about the hole.

Here’s the alternate version for the Aethos direct mount.

[Klaster_1]

Today I cut the fork to length, took me two walks to LBS because I was too lazy to take the frame with me the first time. Guys at LBS allowed me to use the tools for free (already sold most of mine), very generous of them. Overall, Aethos geometry is similar to FM079 sizing-wise, the head tube is lower, so put an extra 5 mm spacer on. Apparently, I don't have a 5 mm last-gen Extralite spacer, so the colors mismatch a bit. The heavy Alpinist seatpost on the photo will be replaced with 30 cm long Darimo T1 Loop when I'm able to purchase parts.

Aethos, work in progress

FM079 headset (55.35g):

Headset bearing upper: FSA MR042R (13,82g)
Headset bearing shims (upper): Noname (1,73g)
Headset bearing lower: FSA MR12RB (22,63g)
Headset dust cover: DIY 3D printed (1,66g)
Headset steerer wedge: Neco (1,93g)
Headset microshims: Noname (2,27g)
Lower bearing spacer: Custom (2,06g)
Steerer spacer: Extralite UltraSpacer CFRP 10mm (1,76g)
Top cap: Extralite Hypercap (2,84g)
Expander plug: Extralite Ultrastar 4 (4,65g)

Aethos headset (48.95g):

Headset bearing upper: FSA MR042R (13,82g)
Headset bearing shims (upper): Specialized (0.59g)
Headset bearing lower: Specialized (21.54g)
Headset dust cover: DIY 3D printed (1,66g)
Headset steerer wedge: Specialized (1.29g)
Steerer spacer 1: Extralite UltraSpacer CFRP 10mm (1,76g)
Steerer spacer 2: Extralite UltraSpacer gen-1 5mm (0.8g)
Top cap: Extralite Hypercap (2,84g)
Expander plug: Extralite Ultrastar 4 (4,65g)

Specialized Aethos steerer spacer, 5mm

Specialized Aethos steerer wedge

Specialized Aethos steerer shim

Specialized Aethos lower headset bearing

Specialized Aethos upper headset bearing

Specialized Aethos steerer spacer, 10mm

Specialized Aethos dust cover

[dudemanppl]

If you set the shifters to use just the buttons on top to shift, you can remove the shifty bits in the right lever as well.

[Klaster_1]

If you set the shifters to use just the buttons on top to shift, you can remove the shifty bits in the right lever as well.

True, the levers have more capacity for tuning left, what you suggest would save ~12g. Drilling out lever mounting points can be done too. At this moment, that's not the line I am willing to cross, I'd like to keep the modifications reversible, and I also enjoy the ergonomics of lever-mounted buttons, especially given how much I use the drops. In general, I believe Di2 and AXS modifications have been underexplored, despite electrical systems being easier to modify than mechanical ones.

In the following days, I plan to re-do the wiring Aethos came with, eliminating the junction B by splicing the wires. Aethos also came with an EW-RS910, I plan to use it instead of the SM-EW90-A I had on FM079, connecting it by a single wire to the shifter, running a naked wire to the shifter outside the bar. A junction taped to the seat tube wouldn't look as good on Aethos.