New Rockshox Sid 2021

[Swannie]

I'm getting approx 10% movement when locked out on both my Sid Ultinate fork and SidLuxe Ultimate Shock. Is this normal?

On my ultimate sid (race day damper) there is no difference in locked or open, after looking on the www found out it needs 'bleeding'. Any one here who has tried that?

[robbosmans]

When is the fork last been serviced?

[js]

As I haven't ridden either fork, I can't comment on the ride myself. I was only tryinig to summarize the comments in their review. If you want a better idea of what led me to that summary, I'd definitely recommend reading the review - as said, the Google Chrome translation of the article was excellent and it relates all their points very clearly for both forks.

Pushed to draw out a quote, I'd offer this one: "Both forks help to make sporty MTBs even more comfortable, fun and safe - and at an excellent level. In the end, it is a matter of taste whether you choose the slightly lighter 34 SC, which is more harmonious over the entire stroke range, or the clearly stiffer and very sensitive SID.", but would still really reocmmend reading the full article - it seems a well-informed and well-referenced review.

As a bigger rider (I'm 192cm), I'm definitely leaning towards the SID.

[js]

As for bleeding the damper, there is a port at the top of the fork, next to the lockout.


"You'll also spot a tiny bleed screw at the topcap that will let you burp air from the system if needed, making maintenance easier."

[Swannie]

When is the fork last been serviced?

it has never been serviced. Just looked on my strava stats, since i have the fork i have done +5000km's on it, it might need some service.

As for the bleeding, my fork has the remote lock out, would the small screw in front be the bleed port? =>

[js]

Based on their service info and diagrams, it looks like the bleed screw is in the same place on the remote versions, meaning it's under the cable pull for the lockout. If you remove the cable attachment (which is done using the screw on the right in your photo), you should be able to lift that out of the way and see the bleed port below.

Here's a link to the tech doc that covers this process, with exploded views of the lockout set-up on bottom left of pages 9 & 10 - https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/sit ... manual.pdf

[Swannie]

thanks js: the damper has been bled, it locks rock solid again.

[bokiscout]

1. My dumper cable is pointing to right (from factory), and it is very bad for cable management.
- What should I do to rotate it 30 degrees to the front (or left, towards the frame)?
- Is it suficient to reposition the locking mechanism or I have to remove and rotate the whole dumper?



2. What size cable end sleeve should I use to properly fit my remote lockout cable to the fork?
- I know the outer size of the cable, but I don't know the inner size of the dumper fitting.

[OnTheRivet]

1. My dumper cable is pointing to right (from factory), and it is very bad for cable management.
- What should I do to rotate it 30 degrees to the front (or left, towards the frame)?
- Is it suficient to reposition the locking mechanism or I have to remove and rotate the whole dumper?



2. What size cable end sleeve should I use to properly fit my remote lockout cable to the fork?
- I know the outer size of the cable, but I don't know the inner size of the dumper fitting.

You need to remove the whole lockout assembly from the fork and re-clock it.

[bokiscout]

1. My dumper cable is pointing to right (from factory), and it is very bad for cable management.
- What should I do to rotate it 30 degrees to the front (or left, towards the frame)?
- Is it suficient to reposition the locking mechanism or I have to remove and rotate the whole dumper?



2. What size cable end sleeve should I use to properly fit my remote lockout cable to the fork?
- I know the outer size of the cable, but I don't know the inner size of the dumper fitting.

You need to remove the whole lockout assembly from the fork and re-clock it.

From the rock shox manual ^

Can some one with Sid SL Select (charger dumper) confirm me that my fork is actually properly clocked?

However, I still want the remote rotated. Can this do any damage?

[rapsac]

I've been searching for better info on Sid vs Fox 34sc and after finally finding it, I thought I'd share it here to hopefully save others some of the time it took me.



Full report (well-translated in Chrome) here - https://www.mountainbike-magazin.de/par ... -sid-2021/

Summary - the SID is stiffer in every way and better with small bumps, but the Fox was given the nod for better overall use of it's travel.

(Edit - "Bremssteifigkeit, Seitensteifigkeit & Torsionssteifigkeit" translate to "Braking stiffness, Lateral stiffness and Torsional stiffness" respectively)

For overview, I have compiled three tests of two magazines in the following table:

[cula_ru]

Wow Fox is a wet noodle compared to RockShox!

[Hexsense]

^ Surprised?
Rockshox saved a ton of weight on that tiny Raceday damper.
Fox keep Fit4 pretty much the full size but they need to get the weight down to compete Rockshox. So there, structural sacrifice.
It's trimmed down damper vs trimmed down chasis. Heavier rider ride aggressively should go RS but light-medium rider do normal trail and xc course can also consider Fox. I used both 2 months on RS and 1 month so far on Fox, Fit4 damper seems more controlled and refined in the motion. But it still suffer from harsh HSC spike from repeated medium size bumps because of high preload required to have stiff lock out feature.

Meanwhile, Manitou R7 Pro doesn't seem to bother sacrifice anything for weight saving. High stiffness despite 32mm stanchion, best of these 3 brands damper, separate lock out circuit so that open mode remain supple and not affected by high compression preload required by stiff lock-out mode. Of course, it weight more, 136g more than RS.

[MagicShite]

trying to collect the service kits for the SID SL Ultimate 2021 with race day damper.

I honestly could not find any. Anyone knows where they are available?

[protocol_droid]

1. My dumper cable is pointing to right (from factory), and it is very bad for cable management.
- What should I do to rotate it 30 degrees to the front (or left, towards the frame)?
- Is it suficient to reposition the locking mechanism or I have to remove and rotate the whole dumper?



2. What size cable end sleeve should I use to properly fit my remote lockout cable to the fork?
- I know the outer size of the cable, but I don't know the inner size of the dumper fitting.

You need to remove the whole lockout assembly from the fork and re-clock it.

Screenshot from 2021-11-24 22-49-59.png

From the rock shox manual ^

Can some one with Sid SL Select (charger dumper) confirm me that my fork is actually properly clocked?

However, I still want the remote rotated. Can this do any damage?

I have this issue also. Brand new fork and the lockout entry point is at 2 o'clock. Why the heck dont they position it properly from the factory? These pics dont show how to clock it properly.

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