Show Me Your WW Monstercross!

[Hex]

And inspiration thread!

Let's see them!

PS: not a competition but brownie points for listing some kit and weight

[Hex]

No one made any?

I thought there would be a lot more of this:

viewtopic.php?t=156050

I'm inspired myself. Thought maybe it was more common.

A friend wants to try to 'cross his second XC. An alloy Mondraker. It currently stands at roughly 14kg all stock parts with Deore 2x11.
I'm selling my etap road bike looking to fund a gravel bike, but I am well inspired by the thread above.

[Sammy]

Will weigh it when I get home!

2019 Trek Procaliber 6 with dropper post, drop bars and a mix of NX and Apex 1x11. Have since put XTR pedals on.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

[Hex]

Sweet ride!

Have you tried slicks with it?

[Sammy]

Sweet ride!

Have you tried slicks with it?

Not yet. I'm keen to though. She needs a bigger chainring too.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

[Hex]

Sweet ride!

Have you tried slicks with it?

Not yet. I'm keen to though. She needs a bigger chainring too.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

OH!

Speaking of bigger chainrings....!...but taking the tangent of di2/drop bar/FD-RD xt/xtr....

How do you get a big (40t+) double up front with m8000/m9000 cranksets? I can see 38t is the largest of the double rings they make. They do make a tripple that has a 40. Neither Specialites TA, AbsoluteBlack or Wolftooth make a 40t+ front chainring for a double.

I see that hunting the previous gen cranksets (m985 and m785) can yield a 40/42/44 double combo with a 28/30 small chainring.

[Jaker]

Not yet. I'm keen to though. She needs a bigger chainring too.

What cassette is on the back? I ride my rigid MTB on the road with a SRAM 10-36 10sp cassette and a 46t single front Garbaruk ring. It's good enough for most of the climbing that I do, but is a bit lacking in speed for some of the downhills that I frequent.

[sanrensho]

OH!

Speaking of bigger chainrings....!...but taking the tangent of di2/drop bar/FD-RD xt/xtr....

How do you get a big (40t+) double up front with m8000/m9000 cranksets? I can see 38t is the largest of the double rings they make. They do make a tripple that has a 40. Neither Specialites TA, AbsoluteBlack or Wolftooth make a 40t+ front chainring for a double.

I see that hunting the previous gen cranksets (m985 and m785) can yield a 40/42/44 double combo with a 28/30 small chainring.

Way back when I had my Kona mtb built up as a drop bar conversion, I used a compact triple mtb crank (Deore DX FC-MT60) running 36/48T, with stock 122.5mm BB.

CORRECTION: Was probably running 113mm BB (vs. stock 122.5mm) for chainline. Good old square tapers.

[Hex]

Way back when I had my Kona mtb built up as a drop bar conversion, I used a compact triple mtb crank (Deore DX FC-MT60) running 36/48T, with stock 122.5mm BB.

I did find that m9000/m8000 tripples can have a 40 big ring from my search a few days back, but a double is more what I'd be looking for if I did a conversion.

My mate with the Mondraker is now thinking of not doing a full drop-bar conversion (I sent him Doug's rigid monster cross) because he'd be losing the front double ability.

He says he's doing the rigid (looking for a cheap second hand fork) conversion, but not throwing money at it any more.

Anyone else with conversions?

[Catagory6]

this thread is relevant to my interests
how do i know what size hardtail mtb frame would fit me?
i would like to basically just switch out the frame/fork for a fully rigid
looking for a position that doesn't put my head so far out over the front wheel. slacker HTa.

current setup is
Focus Mares CX (size small)
- reach = 375
- stack = 536
- eTT = 534
- head angle = 70
- seat angle = 73.5

Zero-deg, 110 stem
70mm reach drop bars

am i basically looking for a frame/stem that will equal the overall reach to the brake hoods, with the same saddle-to-bar drop?
534 (375) + 110 + 70
ett (reach) + stem + handlebar reach

would like to use my current 700c, 140 rear hub spacing wheelset.
so what size MTB frame is that? 27.5, or 29?

EDIT:
for instance, i found a frame that had a 608mm eTT
so if i use those 70mm bars, that would leave a 36mm stem... which doesn't sound like it would work too well

[twoangstroms]

This is inspiring!

I have my old Diamondback Ti mountain bike (raced across Colorado back in the day) -- 26" wheels, Deore XT 3-chainring, cantis, Maintou fork.

It'd be great to modernize the drivetrain, get it set up with drop bars and stuff. But what do you think? It's literally at least 20 years old. Is it too specced in the past to modernize?

If not, any tips? Note that I would not be doing the wrenching.

On a related note, if anyone really can make the case for how much they want it as their own project, I could be persuaded to sell.

[sanrensho]

this thread is relevant to my interests
how do i know what size hardtail mtb frame would fit me?

I think you're on the right track looking at ETT. Looking at my old notes:

Drop Bar Converted Kona Fire Mountain

570mm ETT + 50mm stem= 620 mm (+15mm)

Road Bike

515mm ETT + 90mm stem= 605mm

+15mm is fine and on gravel, I spent most of my time on the hoods anyway, rarely was in the hooks. That 608mm ETT frame is likely a bit too big.

[Hex]

this thread is relevant to my interests
how do i know what size hardtail mtb frame would fit me?
i would like to basically just switch out the frame/fork for a fully rigid
looking for a position that doesn't put my head so far out over the front wheel. slacker HTa.

current setup is
Focus Mares CX (size small)
- reach = 375
- stack = 536
- eTT = 534
- head angle = 70
- seat angle = 73.5

Zero-deg, 110 stem
70mm reach drop bars

am i basically looking for a frame/stem that will equal the overall reach to the brake hoods, with the same saddle-to-bar drop?
534 (375) + 110 + 70
ett (reach) + stem + handlebar reach

would like to use my current 700c, 140 rear hub spacing wheelset.
so what size MTB frame is that? 27.5, or 29?

EDIT:
for instance, i found a frame that had a 608mm eTT
so if i use those 70mm bars, that would leave a 36mm stem... which doesn't sound like it would work too well

Two things from my very limited research:

Stack + Reach.

That's all that matters because ETT only tells you part of the story. What if ETT is same in both bikes, but the seat tube angle is more pronounce towards the back? You may then have a shorter reach in reality because the positioning between your bum and the pedals will always be the dominant first position, where you then adjust reach from.

It will only be a couple of cm of difference, but that couple of cm will dictate your stem length.

Speaking of which, a mtb stack will be significantly higher than a road bike stack. I am a small dude, so I don't have much hopes of going with smaller frames to get the same saddle to bar drop as a road bike. But, if you ride something like a 56 in road, you may get away with a small mtb frame and get the same saddle to bar drop. That being said, you may also need an ultra long seat post because mtb seat tubes tend to be really short.

Lastly, a small mtb frame (if this could be the case with you to get that saddle to bar drop) will also mean that you may need a longer stem and this could be counter productive in mtb maneuverablility. A longer stem may make the already "slower than road to react" mtb even slower. So maybe get the same saddle to bar drop, but don't try to imitate the reach as much.

[Hex]

This is inspiring!

I have my old Diamondback Ti mountain bike (raced across Colorado back in the day) -- 26" wheels, Deore XT 3-chainring, cantis, Maintou fork.

It'd be great to modernize the drivetrain, get it set up with drop bars and stuff. But what do you think? It's literally at least 20 years old. Is it too specced in the past to modernize?

If not, any tips? Note that I would not be doing the wrenching.

On a related note, if anyone really can make the case for how much they want it as their own project, I could be persuaded to sell.

Mmmmm. Good question re: bike age for conversion to modern parts.

My first port of call would be to check if you can fit new wheels or a new cassette body (so you can at least get 10/11 cogs at the back

The tripple crankset may still work today unless you want something more bling-y. In which case the BB width and fit of a new crankset needs to be determined in case standards have moved on. You could also just do a 1x11/10 conversion by keeping your current cranks and find a suitable narrow wide chainring at the front.

Everything else, from what I understand, could just fit right into place....except the rigid fork, for which you would need to hunt for a 26" rigid fork that suits your frame.

[Hex]

Anyone else?

I thought we had a good thing going!....