Tubeless - even more ghetto method??
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Looking at going tubeless on my MTB to help shed abit of weight. And I got thinking.
Why not just cut 2-3 inch sections of tape and cover just the holes? Ok it's not going to make much difference. But if the tape can seal between the spoke hole and the rim with say no more than 10mm of tape, then surely an inch going length ways is enough?
Why not just cut 2-3 inch sections of tape and cover just the holes? Ok it's not going to make much difference. But if the tape can seal between the spoke hole and the rim with say no more than 10mm of tape, then surely an inch going length ways is enough?
Tubeless isn't even the lightest option, unless you choose the path of non-tubeless easy tires or are in some special circumstances. I did that once, never again. How much are do you plan to save on tape anyway? Two wraps of Tesa are 10g, so about half of that. Might as well pour 2.5ml less of sealant into each tire. If you decide to try tape patches, please report back about your experience.
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Never tried just covering teh holes, but my experience with Ghetto tubeless using black Gorilla tape was marginally successful with a set of Enve Twenty9 XC wheels and Scwalbe G Ones. In my case, the tape rolled back, leaving a terrible residue which adhered to the bead of the tire, making for a difficult time removing the tire.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"
I have no idea how many grams it will save on the tape, it was just a thought that popped in to my head.
Is there something different about regular tubeless rim tape to say gorilla tape then that causes the tape to go off?
I have just looked at a rim I have had gorilla tape since October, although with a tube, and it hasn't lifted or even look like it's going to come un stuck. Guess it reacts with the sealant?
I can sort of see why you would want the tape covering the whole circumference, I guess to stop the air pressure 'blowing' the tape through the hole?
And I have just had a look at Tesa tape, I'm pretty sure I've seen that when dismantling vehicle looms and that stuff leaves a residue I think as well.
Is there something different about regular tubeless rim tape to say gorilla tape then that causes the tape to go off?
I have just looked at a rim I have had gorilla tape since October, although with a tube, and it hasn't lifted or even look like it's going to come un stuck. Guess it reacts with the sealant?
I can sort of see why you would want the tape covering the whole circumference, I guess to stop the air pressure 'blowing' the tape through the hole?
And I have just had a look at Tesa tape, I'm pretty sure I've seen that when dismantling vehicle looms and that stuff leaves a residue I think as well.
The model is Tesa 4289, super cheap at ~10USD for 55m. Adhesion strength is enough to keep it in place when wrapped, but it will most likely come undone when placed as you've suggested.
I've used squares of black duck (cloth backed) tape with tubes. Not had any problems.
The problem I foresee is the patch being pushed into the hole for the spoke. With a tube, the tube presses on the patch around the hole so it stays put and being cloth backed, it does not deform.
For some reason in my mind, I cannot visualise the air pressing on the patch to stop it moving so it will end up in the hole .
Give it a try, it will be apparent if it works or not.
The problem I foresee is the patch being pushed into the hole for the spoke. With a tube, the tube presses on the patch around the hole so it stays put and being cloth backed, it does not deform.
For some reason in my mind, I cannot visualise the air pressing on the patch to stop it moving so it will end up in the hole .
Give it a try, it will be apparent if it works or not.
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Please only test this on your rear wheel, it’s much better for your teeth should it fail!
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Yeah that was exactly my thoughts, I have found a company that at least used to, maybe still does, sell just patches to go over the spoke holes. they were never intended for use on tubeless, although a couple of online company reviews state they can be used, I can only find actual person that apparently has and they said that the sealant basically dissolved the patches so they were useless.02GF74 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 24, 2018 7:45 pmI've used squares of black duck (cloth backed) tape with tubes. Not had any problems.
The problem I foresee is the patch being pushed into the hole for the spoke. With a tube, the tube presses on the patch around the hole so it stays put and being cloth backed, it does not deform.
For some reason in my mind, I cannot visualise the air pressing on the patch to stop it moving so it will end up in the hole .
Give it a try, it will be apparent if it works or not.
well for anyone coming across this, it doesn't work. well, for the reasons of air pressure pressing the tape through the whole, i do not know.
but i could not get patches to stay stuck to the rim, you apply it, stick it down nicely, and it looks all good, move on a few holes, look back and it is starting to lift. so i gave in and did it the normal way, two wraps around the wheel with Tesa tape, some stans sealant and it seems to be good. this is on an Alex volar rim with a maxxis ignitor.
but i could not get patches to stay stuck to the rim, you apply it, stick it down nicely, and it looks all good, move on a few holes, look back and it is starting to lift. so i gave in and did it the normal way, two wraps around the wheel with Tesa tape, some stans sealant and it seems to be good. this is on an Alex volar rim with a maxxis ignitor.
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Assuming you cleaned the rim, which I'm sure you did, the tape you are using can't be that good, didn't have any sticking problems with the one I used.monka wrote: ↑
but i could not get patches to stay stuck to the rim, you apply it, stick it down nicely, and it looks all good, move on a few holes, look back and it is starting to lift.