What to do with an S-Works Epic WC?

Discuss light weight issues concerning mountain bikes & parts.

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Bream
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:55 am
Location: Sweden

by Bream

I've actually had my S-Works epic up for sale over the last month and just last week someone agreed to buy it. Great news I thought but then I started to think about what I'm actually going to replace it with :shock:

To build a WW FS XC race bike is going to cost a lot, if I went he cheap Chinese frame way it might save a bit but then I'd be probably be behind the frame I have today etc.

So I think I'm going to keep it, but I would like to shed some weight, given today it sits at 10.11kg all in, I'm honestly at a bit of a loss where to start !?

Feels like everything I have is of a high standard but collectively it adds up to too much weight, so I simple need to trade all the components out over the coming months to save like 100g per item, do it 10 times and I have the 1kg loss which would be great?

Ideas and comments welcome.

Bike in question is a standard 2015 S-Works Epic WC in size XL, only changes are the tires, AB chainring and an ENVE cockpit:

Image

Erwandy
Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:14 pm

by Erwandy

The route to weight reduction starts with you disassembling every components and put them to weight scale. List them out one by one and from that point onward you'll get a better idea how to achieve the 1kg reduction goal.

I would normally recommend to work on the wheelset first - the ones that matter the most because it contribute to both static and rolling weight. For a 29er, the Weenie standard for wheelset is about 1.2 to 1.4kg max (without rotors, tires & cassettes). The tires should not exceed 1100g and running them tubeless with only 60g of sealant is a must (30g/30ml each tires). So it goes from there. It all also depends heavily on the fact if you are a McGyver type of person who can perform your own mods or you are the type that prefer to but pre lightened parts - the latter obviously being the more expensive approach.

Good luck.

by Weenie


Bream
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:55 am
Location: Sweden

by Bream

Thanks for the reply, and here's my dilema, my wheelset is already below 1.4kg, albeit only just. If I sold my Roval SLs for say 800€, surely I'd have to pay nearly twice that to get a lighter pair without loss of stiffness or ride quality!?

Erwandy
Posts: 44
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2015 2:14 pm

by Erwandy

Bream wrote:
Thu Dec 21, 2017 1:42 pm
Thanks for the reply, and here's my dilema, my wheelset is already below 1.4kg, albeit only just. If I sold my Roval SLs for say 800€, surely I'd have to pay nearly twice that to get a lighter pair without loss of stiffness or ride quality!?
Changing wheelset can be quite costly. But you can tweak the current ones by swapping out the spokes to lighter version if your weight permits. Swapping out to lighter rims will help as well. ZTRs offer some nice lightweight rims at reasonable prices.

Actually, for the same sort of budget, you can have one custom made - DT Swiss 240s hubs + Revolution Spokes + Stan's ZTR Crest MK3 - and they probably cost lesser than 800€ and weighs at 1.3kg

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Klaster1
Posts: 213
Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2016 10:25 am
Location: Krasnoyarsk, Russia

by Klaster1

Bream wrote:
Thu Dec 21, 2017 1:42 pm
Thanks for the reply, and here's my dilema, my wheelset is already below 1.4kg, albeit only just. If I sold my Roval SLs for say 800€, surely I'd have to pay nearly twice that to get a lighter pair without loss of stiffness or ride quality!?
How about a set of Extralites laced to CX-rays and LB Flyweight rims? 1080g in total. You can also check out by M06 build list here to get more ideas.

boots2000
Posts: 1428
Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm

by boots2000

I had the exact same Epic that you have- You could make the following changes:
1.) Wheels- Newer Roval Control SL or Enve 525- Saves about 100 grams- Costs a pile of cash.
2.) Fork- Fox SC- Saves about 160 grams- same as wheels- Expensive.
3.) Pedals- Crank Bors Ti- but they might not work as well.

For me- I would just sell the bike and start over. You can get around $4k for the bike if in great shape and roll that into a new one. That is what I did.

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Lelandjt
Posts: 414
Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:10 am

by Lelandjt

I have an XL Spark RC Pro still sitting in its box that I'd sell you. That frame would make a much better starting point....

Bream
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:55 am
Location: Sweden

by Bream

How tall are you for that XL Spark? Please message me a price and all details. I have someone wanting to buy my Epic so might be interested.

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Lelandjt
Posts: 414
Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:10 am

by Lelandjt

Bream wrote:
Thu Dec 21, 2017 7:51 pm
How tall are you for that XL Spark? Please message me a price and all details. I have someone wanting to buy my Epic so might be interested.
I'm 6'1" but I'd say it fits riders 5'10" to 6'2", maybe 6'3".

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Rich_W
Posts: 1860
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2004 1:31 pm
Location: On an Island 6 Miles at Sea. Move over Swanson, I'm drivin...

by Rich_W

Same boat... I came from a 2013 Spark 900SL with was an awesome bike, but it was tired. Three seasons on this 2015 worldcup (built from frameset) and its still and awesome ride.

Was thinking a Top Fuel but the one thing I love about the epic is two bottle cages.... (Even though this has only one cage on at the moment). Meh, maybe just get the new Epic with the slacker HT angle...

Image

TurboKoo
Posts: 424
Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:55 pm

by TurboKoo

I would sell and buy never frame with slacker head angle. If you are going to change anyway parts for lighter you can opt for cheaper base model.
I’d go for Cannondale Scalpel, Pivot Mach 429SL, Scott Spark or new Epic. There’s a big difference in new bikes with modern geometry.
Scott Foil
Shimano 9150
Shimano FCR-9100-P
Shimano C60 tubulars

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Rich_W
Posts: 1860
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2004 1:31 pm
Location: On an Island 6 Miles at Sea. Move over Swanson, I'm drivin...

by Rich_W

TurboKoo wrote:
Mon Dec 25, 2017 6:55 pm
I would sell and buy never frame with slacker head angle. If you are going to change anyway parts for lighter you can opt for cheaper base model.
I’d go for Cannondale Scalpel, Pivot Mach 429SL, Scott Spark or new Epic. There’s a big difference in new bikes with modern geometry.
What essentially is the "big difference" in modern geometry? Personally I like a bike that handles tight twisty stuff, which is pretty much everything I ride locally.

Comparing head-angles, they are all different. What am I missing?

2013 Scott Spark 900SL: 70.1° (Previous Bike)
2015 S-Works Epic Worldcup: 70.5° (Current Bike)

2018 S-Works Epic: 69.5
2018 Trek Top Fuel: 70.0°
2018 Pivot 429SL: 70.3°
2018 Scott Spark RC 900SL: 68.5°
2018 Cannondale Scalpel: 69.5°
2018 BMC 4-Stroke: 70.0°

TurboKoo
Posts: 424
Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:55 pm

by TurboKoo

I can see that my post includes fairly bad typo. Instead of never it should be newer.

That one degree with different fork rake makes big difference in downhills.
I test rode epic quite a bit and compared it Pivot and it was night and day in technical. Surely on super smooth terrain Epic felt good, especially when climbing out of saddle but it was never as fast as 429SL on technical stuff. I went for Pivot and now I have Scalpel

Also new frames are longer with shorter stems.
Scott Foil
Shimano 9150
Shimano FCR-9100-P
Shimano C60 tubulars

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Rich_W
Posts: 1860
Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2004 1:31 pm
Location: On an Island 6 Miles at Sea. Move over Swanson, I'm drivin...

by Rich_W

Also new frames are longer with shorter stems.
Comparing reach measurements
Scalpel: is 445mm
Mach29SL: 444mm
Epic: 456mm
4Stroke: 456mm

I do agree slacker is better. The difference was apparent when I went from the '13 Spark to the 15' Epic. Bottom line I think I'm going to put my Epic on the block and see it anybody bites

Now, if we measure the "pure sex-on-wheels-pimp-with-a-limp" metric... my feeling is the 2018 4-stroke rules... can't stop staring at this :unbelievable:

Image

Bream
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:55 am
Location: Sweden

by Bream

I’ve also been studying the geometry differences and to be honest the courses I race here in Sweden aren’t really that technical, plus as I use to race DH it’s not like I need and extra 0.5-1 degree is slack to help me decend faster etc. So the only reason to change would be to start a new build with a target weight >1kg lighter, plus a newer setup/fashion, and for both these things it’s going to cost me a considerable amount!

Tempted to just get the frame custom finished to lose the 2015 look (fashion), sell out the ENVE cockpit and go schmolke, change a few other bits and bobs and save ~500g and then be happy for 2018 season!

by Weenie


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