Impact of different Q-factor when switching between road bike and MTB
Moderator: Moderator Team
It seems to be the case that I cannot put out the same powernumbers on the mtb as on my road bike.
Could this be related to the fact that the mtb crankset (rotor rex3 power2max) has a much wider Q-Factor than my crank on my road bike (rival22 power2max)?
Has anyone got the same experience?
Or is this just a matter of "muscle memory" because I ride a lot more on my roadbike?
Inputs are welcome!
Could this be related to the fact that the mtb crankset (rotor rex3 power2max) has a much wider Q-Factor than my crank on my road bike (rival22 power2max)?
Has anyone got the same experience?
Or is this just a matter of "muscle memory" because I ride a lot more on my roadbike?
Inputs are welcome!
That might be one factor amongst many.
Different crank lengths, different hip/back position, different cleat positions, different bar width.......
Might be worth really accurately mimicking the position between the two. And try again.
The mtb might be unrideable by then.
Different crank lengths, different hip/back position, different cleat positions, different bar width.......
Might be worth really accurately mimicking the position between the two. And try again.
The mtb might be unrideable by then.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
Hardtail or full suspension?
It could be the wider cranks as you mention, but I bet it is general setup.
Especially if it full suspension- it is not as easy as just replicating same saddle position.
Effective saddle position changes when you sit on the bike and the suspension sags.
It could be the wider cranks as you mention, but I bet it is general setup.
Especially if it full suspension- it is not as easy as just replicating same saddle position.
Effective saddle position changes when you sit on the bike and the suspension sags.
Yes, hardtail. And cranks are the same length. Cleat and saddle position should be close but hip angle is very different indeed.
However I do like being a bit more upright for technical sections. I could go longer/lower though. You guys think that should help with hip angle?
However I do like being a bit more upright for technical sections. I could go longer/lower though. You guys think that should help with hip angle?
My hardtail setup formula is this:
1.) Saddle position close to road position in terms of height and setback.
2.) Reach- shorter than hoods but longer than tops (of road bike).
3.) Drop- Less than road. Start at half of road drop. Then decide if you like higher or lower.
4.) Bar width- whatever you like but I think that most ride bars that are too wide.
1.) Saddle position close to road position in terms of height and setback.
2.) Reach- shorter than hoods but longer than tops (of road bike).
3.) Drop- Less than road. Start at half of road drop. Then decide if you like higher or lower.
4.) Bar width- whatever you like but I think that most ride bars that are too wide.
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com
Some people will disagree, but:
A dropper seat post sounds like the solution to your problems.
Allows you to run the proper seat post height and drop for proper hip angle and power production.
Allows you to lower the seat for technical sections.
A dropper seat post sounds like the solution to your problems.
Allows you to run the proper seat post height and drop for proper hip angle and power production.
Allows you to lower the seat for technical sections.