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Not sure of a 45mm OD headset but you could get some aluminium rings turned up and insert those and then use campy 40mm integrated?
Nothing on here 45mm! http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... -standards
Budget 26" HT build viewtopic.php?f=10&t=110956
It turns out the inside diameter of the head tube was actually 44mm. I was able to install a semi-integrated headset and use a 1 1/8" fork with no problem. Just waiting for wheels and a few small parts to arrive and then I'll begin building. This will also be a fun project.
Alpinestars Cro-Mega LX T26 Frame
Rock Shox Sid Fork (1996 model tuned for 60mm travel and lighter rider)
Mavic Crossroc UST wheels
SRAM X9 shifters and front derailleur
SRAM X0 rear derailleur
KMC X10SL Chain
Easton EC90 seatpost
Easton EC90 bars
Specialized Junior Saddle
V-Brakes and Levers TBD (Avid)
Tires TBD (Kenda)
Jagwire full length brake and shift cables
Lasco 152.5mm crankset (2x chainrings)
Sinz Titanium B/B
Crankbrothers Eggbeater pedals
BBB semi-integrated headset
This is the frameset I started out with...
Only one real issue with the bike and that is rear brake setup. The bike is old so was designed for cantilever brakes with the straddle wire running from in front of the seat tube. I set the bike up with Avid SD7 linear pull brakes. There is virtually no clearance between the cable and the top of the tire. I can't run a more aggressive tread in the rear because there is simply no clearance. I may end up putting a cantilever on the back.
The rear end is definitely "noodly." Lots of flex when I wiggle things around back there, but my son weighs less than 70 pounds and doesn't seem to notice it.
I'll post weight and photos soon.
I ended up using a BMX crankset, modified to accept a 34t IRD triplizer chainring and a 24t granny. You'll probably notice the tower of spacers on the steer-tube. The head tube is so short I had to use a tall stack to get the handlebar positioned properly. The original fork/steerer/stem/headset combination occupied the same space. I'm reluctant to cut the steerer on this fork because I want to use it on the next frame, or save it for his little brother. If I cut it, it will only work with this frame.
The only bottle cage bosses or under the down tube, right behind the rear tire where the bottle will get covered in mud and other "stuff" on the trail. It's also difficult to reach. So I opted for a stem faceplate bottle cage mount. It's ugly, but it works well. Especially for a little guy. For longer rides he wears a camelback. But the races here tend to be only 30 minutes so one small bottle is enough.
First race is tomorrow....
Some vbrakes have longer arms than others, one may clear better than the ones you already tried. Maybe Paul motolite or the cane creek direct curve?
Front shifting on the bikes is always challenging due to the very short rear end. I spaced out the bottom bracket a few millimeters to get the chainline right... and also to prevent the front derailleur cage from rubbing on the tire.
The bike was a big hit among all the gearheads too. The combination of vintage and modern parts seemed to be pretty popular. I'm just glad it all worked. Pics to follow.
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