Challange; to lighten my bike 1kg
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Last edited by Causidicus on Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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I like things dat are cheap n useful
Groupset ultegra mechanical 2441 grams
wheelset easton ea90slx 1398 grams
Handle bar n stem easton ec90 series
Speedplay stainless pedals
Watch ebay for used fizik carbon rail saddle 169 grams
That shud get you 1 kilo reduction without killing contents of wallet.
Seatpost....no comment
Groupset ultegra mechanical 2441 grams
wheelset easton ea90slx 1398 grams
Handle bar n stem easton ec90 series
Speedplay stainless pedals
Watch ebay for used fizik carbon rail saddle 169 grams
That shud get you 1 kilo reduction without killing contents of wallet.
Seatpost....no comment
The first im changing is the cranks, they are abit worn.
The rear wheel have big grooves on the braking surface.
The stem needs to be abit shorter.
So that's the stuff i want to change first.
Current weight as pictured is 8660grams
The cranks weigh 820 grams withouth bearing, with chanrings.. What is reasonable priced and weigh less?
The rear wheel have big grooves on the braking surface.
The stem needs to be abit shorter.
So that's the stuff i want to change first.
Current weight as pictured is 8660grams
The cranks weigh 820 grams withouth bearing, with chanrings.. What is reasonable priced and weigh less?
Some parts have been ordered.
Sram RED crankset. Will save around 150 grams
Ebay brake calipers. Save around 100grams claimed
Tubular 38mm carbon wheels. Will save around 500 claimed.
UNO ASA105 Ultra Light Weight Alloy Stem ordered. Should save around 40 grams claimed.
Sram RED crankset. Will save around 150 grams
Ebay brake calipers. Save around 100grams claimed
Tubular 38mm carbon wheels. Will save around 500 claimed.
UNO ASA105 Ultra Light Weight Alloy Stem ordered. Should save around 40 grams claimed.
- mellowJohnny
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 12:56 am
- Location: YYZ
Good start - keep us up to date with pics and progress
Nice bike, I like what you did with the fork. I read your 'what frame should I get' thread in the road section. You said you're new to road riding, so maybe you don't have the 'feel' for the road position yet. You're supposed to be 'stretched out' to a certain extent on a road bike, and at 6ft, a 58cm wouldn't be out of the question for you (though this depends on other factors too) Lance is 5' 10" and rides a 58... Another way you could shorten the reach is with some compact handlebars, I like Deda bars.
- mellowJohnny
- Posts: 492
- Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 12:56 am
- Location: YYZ
Skorp wrote:
The steerer tube is fully carbon, and it originally has this sleeve for reinforcement. Do you guys think its safe to use this normal topcap?
Not OK to use the star nut in a carbon steerer tube. I see it in your picture - did you use it?
I was thinking stans fluid, a pump and some superglue.
Anyways, as you now, rotating weight is the important stuff.. So if i have a little tools box it doesn't matter as much.
My normal trip (50km) is anyways around a water and a mountain. The highway goes inbetween the mountain and the water. Call a friend, and 10 minutes later i have my tyre or get picked up. On longer trips, my tools bag will be carried with me.
Thanks! yeah that's probably true.
I'm used to a all mountain bike with pretty tall front end. So it felt really strange sitting on a road bike.. Not relaly WW worthy bike but it's loads of fun.
I have been experimenting some with positioning on the road bike, and now i have it the way i want it atleast and i'm happy with how the bike rides. My pedaling feels more powerfull, and i can ride faster for longer.
I might change my frame anyways.
I have a veteran car for sale, i have a good bid on it now.. If i sell it for that bid, i will have extra money for some fun. Possibly a new road bike!
There are some threads in the steerertube originally. I only keep my starnut together with my topcap and topcap bolt. So i dont lose any of them
Anyways, as you now, rotating weight is the important stuff.. So if i have a little tools box it doesn't matter as much.
My normal trip (50km) is anyways around a water and a mountain. The highway goes inbetween the mountain and the water. Call a friend, and 10 minutes later i have my tyre or get picked up. On longer trips, my tools bag will be carried with me.
roadieboy wrote:Nice bike, I like what you did with the fork. I read your 'what frame should I get' thread in the road section. You said you're new to road riding, so maybe you don't have the 'feel' for the road position yet. You're supposed to be 'stretched out' to a certain extent on a road bike, and at 6ft, a 58cm wouldn't be out of the question for you (though this depends on other factors too) Lance is 5' 10" and rides a 58... Another way you could shorten the reach is with some compact handlebars, I like Deda bars.
Thanks! yeah that's probably true.
I'm used to a all mountain bike with pretty tall front end. So it felt really strange sitting on a road bike.. Not relaly WW worthy bike but it's loads of fun.
I have been experimenting some with positioning on the road bike, and now i have it the way i want it atleast and i'm happy with how the bike rides. My pedaling feels more powerfull, and i can ride faster for longer.
I might change my frame anyways.
I have a veteran car for sale, i have a good bid on it now.. If i sell it for that bid, i will have extra money for some fun. Possibly a new road bike!
mellowJohnny wrote:Not OK to use the star nut in a carbon steerer tube. I see it in your picture - did you use it?
There are some threads in the steerertube originally. I only keep my starnut together with my topcap and topcap bolt. So i dont lose any of them
Visit starbike.com Online Retailer for HighEnd cycling components
Great Prices ✓ Broad Selection ✓ Worldwide Delivery ✓
www.starbike.com