Bitex Hubs

[womp]

Hi

I'm struggling to understand the Bitex Hub range

I'm ordering a set of 38mm road wheels and a set of 29er wheels from farsport

Road bike is standard QR front / QR rear
The MTB is a standard QR rear / 15mm axle front

I see the edhubs farsport sell are also Bitex but are $40 more expensive and I'm not sure what model ?

I'm after the best (quality, light) hubs they do

Farsports webshop - http://www.wheelsfar.com/38mm-clincher- ... p-220.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
BITEX - http://www.bitexhubs.com/htm/products.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers in advance

[mentok]

I can't help you with your original question, but please review those 29er rims once you've had some time on them. Weight, build quality, tubeless setup, etc. I haven't actually managed to find any reviews for the farsport 29er rims yet which totally precludes me from buying them.

[womp]

Yes iv also had trouble finding any reviews, I was going to get the Light-bicycle (new process) 29er wheels but the farsport road wheels get good reviews and they are available with more hub options and sapim spokes to I thought id take the gamble with the FS 29er's and order at the same time.
When I figure out how to upload a picture ill post a cross section pic of the farsport 29er's they seem to have a good bead hook which should help with a tubeless setup and they also have a ti wire in the bead hook ?

Off course ill post a review (I'm new to this forum but active on other MTB forums) on here

I just need someone to help me select the hubs so I can order

[eric]

I think the Edhubs are Bitex RAR9/RAF10. And that the $40 is for ceramic bearings.
But I'd verify with Farsports.

[Beancouter]

I have ordered a set of the wider 38mm rims with novatec disc hubs for my cx bike. I will post some details once they arrive (shipped last Saturday).

[SL06]

Hi

I'm struggling to understand the Bitex Hub range

I'm ordering a set of 38mm road wheels and a set of 29er wheels from farsport

Road bike is standard QR front / QR rear
The MTB is a standard QR rear / 15mm axle front

I see the edhubs farsport sell are also Bitex but are $40 more expensive and I'm not sure what model ?

I'm after the best (quality, light) hubs they do

Farsports webshop - http://www.wheelsfar.com/38mm-clincher- ... p-220.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
BITEX - http://www.bitexhubs.com/htm/products.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers in advance

****
I have look at Bitex hub and edHub sometime ago.

I think that edhubs are made by Bitex for Farsport. Yes it could be the RAR9, RAF10 hubs.
The RAR9 use 4, 6802 bearing and the RaF10 (front hub) use 4 x 688 tiny bearing. Edhub have the same bearing size (from Mae at Farsports). Those hubs are light but might required more frequent bearing change because of the limited load capacity.

If you chose Bitex hubs, Farsport use the A713SB Front and the RAR12 rear hubs for there wheel.
The Bitex RAR12/13/16 use Bearing:6802*2+6902*2
* one 6902 is in the end of the cassette body and one 6902 is in the hub-drive side which connect with the cassette
The A713SB and RAF 13 use 2 x 699 bearing.

I have order and received a set of the new aero profile wheel 38 mm from Farsport and love them (Angela : sales4@farsports.cn - She is very good answering your question) but I chose the DTSwiss 240 hubs, front radial laced rear, 2 cross on both side because of the flange size on those hub (same small diameter on both side). DT Swiis 240 have bigger bearing than Bitex.

Between the Edhubs or the Bitex hubs, the BItex hubs RAR12 is likely more durable for a little extra weight because of the bigger bearing. At the front, I would prefer bigger bearing that the 699 but this bearing size is often used and does the job. Tiny 688 bearing at the front Edhub, even if there 4 of those, don't appeal to me. Axle size is also smaller (8 mm instead of 9 mm). If you are extra light person , you might chose differently.

I have not look at MTB hubs...

I hope this help.

[eric]

I've had a couple Bitex fronts with the four small 688s. None have gone bad and the hubs roll pretty well.

I ride a lot of rough roads but I'm about 145 lbs.

[Liggero]

what's betther for mtb? these bitex hubs of novatec 711 & 712?

[kulivontot]

Resurrecting this thread, just got a pair of edhubs for a lightweight tubular build, but I'm finding there's a little more drag on the rear hub than I'd like. It's very noticeable in the stand. Can anybody with experience with these hubs comment on whether this is normal (high drag seals), or whether there are adjustments I can make to improve this? This is with steel cartridge bearings from farsports.

[Lelandjt]

With a new hub a little break in time is needed before you can really tell how much drag it has. A little grease on the pawls helps too.

[Zigmeister]

Didn't Boyd used to use Bitex hubs a few years ago? Had a set of wheels long time back and pretty sure they were. Descent inexpensive hub.

[eric]

I often remove and re-seat the hub bearings in Bitex hubs, after cleaning out the hub where the bearing seats just in case. Sometimes they're not pressed quite all the way in so there's excess preload when the axle caps are tightened.

I recommend doing this only if you have the proper bearing tools. Sockets and screwdrivers aren't good enough. If that's all you have, leave them be. Doing so won't hurt anything, you're just losing a few more watts to drag. The freehub bearings always seem to be ok when I examine them.

Use medium strength thread locker on the axle caps' threads and make sure they're tight. They tend to come loose. Do that even if you don't mess with the bearings.

[TheKaiser]

Resurrecting this thread, just got a pair of edhubs for a lightweight tubular build, but I'm finding there's a little more drag on the rear hub than I'd like. It's very noticeable in the stand. Can anybody with experience with these hubs comment on whether this is normal (high drag seals), or whether there are adjustments I can make to improve this? This is with steel cartridge bearings from farsports.

Are you talking about coasting drag with the cassette freewheeling or pedaling (on the stand) drag with the pawls engaged?

That info can help to narrow down the possible sources of drag, and is especially important because sometimes these problems only show up when the wheel is installed in the frame so it can be tough to isolate as the problem goes away when just playing with the axle on an uninstalled wheel.

[kulivontot]

The wheel is in the process of being built up, so I can't put it in the frame quite yet. I feel like the drag is there both while coasting and while it is spinning without the free hub engaged. How I get here is by spinning the wheel by hand as fast as I can while plucking the spokes on both sides to hear the tension differences. On the two previous wheels I've built recently, I could get them to continue spinning for at least 2-3 times as long on the stand.
@eric,
which tools specifically are you talking about? The bearing extractor tool and the bearing press?

[TheKaiser]

I feel like the drag is there both while coasting and while it is spinning without the free hub engaged. How I get here is by spinning the wheel by hand as fast as I can while plucking the spokes on both sides to hear the tension differences. On the two previous wheels I've built recently, I could get them to continue spinning for at least 2-3 times as long on the stand.
@eric,
which tools specifically are you talking about? The bearing extractor tool and the bearing press?

So was the QR tightened or axle otherwise clamped in the stand when you did this, or was the wheel just loosely in the cradles? It is tough to quantify, but first I would do a subjective comparison with one of those longer spinning wheels just to rotate the axle with your fingers without any compression on the axle and see how freely it rotates. If you find that it is only when clamped in the stand that the friction appears then it is not a intrinsic problem with the bearings, but instead is from excess preload due to some other issue which would then require some more troubleshooting.

If it does seem that the bearings just have draggy seals, and you do have the tools to remove them, some people will remove the inner seals from the cartridges, or will cut the rubber lip from the inner seal thus making it a "non contact" seal but still helping to hold the grease in. Obviously you would only want to do this for bearing sides that don't directly face the elements.