Trek Speed concept as road bike

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HUMP DIESEL
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by HUMP DIESEL

If I am not mistaken, that is how the Venge was actually born was it not? They took the old Transition out with road bars and started looking into a very aero bike.

HUMP
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wingguy
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Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:43 pm

by wingguy

mattjevans wrote:
wingguy wrote: Leaving aside why an SC9 is rolling on Aksiums in the first place


Holy snobbery Batman! :D


It's not snobbery, it's economics. The amount that you pay for the frame is high, but by fitting such a low end set of wheels you give away a fair chunk of the performance you've already paid for. A better balance of lesser frame and better wheels would be faster and cheaper.

mattjevans
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Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

NGMN wrote:Depending on the requirements of your road fit and what size SC you have, it may be doable without looking like a freak.

For instance, I'm a fairly average dude and here is how it would pan out for me:
my road bike coordinates are as follows:
~380, ~550 (~10cm stem, and 80mm reach bars)
My tri bike coordinates are:
~395, ~505

But both are in essence, "slammed." And my road bike, I ride with a classic bend bar, so switching to a flat transition shallower bar would get me another 1cm in height to my hoods position and maintain my drops position.

So I would need to find an addition 3.5cm height and reduce reach by 1.5cm. 9cm stem on shorter/shallower bars - not bad for a guy on the smaller size, which I am. 3.5cm height is where you really have the potential for a not so attractive looking bike, maybe try a 0 degree stem, or -4; but you'll still need some spacers.


I'll need a 90mm stem I think - the steerer stub makes the calcs a bit more problematic, so there is going to be some trial and error (ie cheapish stems from ebay) involved. If 90mm with 6 degree rise works, a Tririg Sigma will get slapped on to make this truly cable-stealth.

mattjevans
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

wingguy wrote:
It's not snobbery, it's economics. The amount that you pay for the frame is high, but by fitting such a low end set of wheels you give away a fair chunk of the performance you've already paid for. A better balance of lesser frame and better wheels would be faster and cheaper.


Chill, I was kidding. I get the point completely. It could perhaps have been worded with a bit more subtlety?

mattjevans
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

shoemakerpom2010 wrote:I kind of get what your looking for. I almost did the same thing when I seen a cannondale Tri bike new on sale at a local shop when I was looking for a road bike. I am like you in that I only have time in the week for some shorter rides along with commutting. I will say this when I did a charity ride over the weekend 9 guys out of the group of 12 backed out at 60 miles from the 100 that we were going claiming the extra 40 was too much. All 9 of those guys had tri bikes which leads me too believe the positions are probally not that comfortable on higher milage.


Yeah, definitely not thinking this is for high mile rides. If I was doing something like that I'd probably just buy a Triban from Decathlon or on ebay...

mattjevans
Posts: 275
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by mattjevans

spud wrote:I've done this, converting a Cervelo P3 to a road bike. It rides just fine, provided you don't mind a little more weight on your hands, and slower steering. Maybe it isn't the best set up for a century, and I can only hold one bottle, but overall it's fun, and definitely fast on the flats.


Thanks - good to know.

Someone just sent me this - Inspring !

http://www.flickr.com/photos/summitbicy ... 256596918/

mile2424
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Joined: Sun Jan 04, 2009 3:22 am

by mile2424

ha that's the one I have seen before. Looks great!

mattjevans
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Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

mile2424 wrote:ha that's the one I have seen before. Looks great!


It does - the cabling isn't as clean as I'd like to see - part of that is the di2 box hanging out there, part is that the bars aren't internally cabled, and also the stem is quite long by the looks of it (I'd guess 120) and that make the cables look a little untidier.

Should also be using a spacer under the stem clamp.

I have the white 9.9 paintjob so it looks like white bar tape is the way to go

mattjevans
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

The good news is this project is slowly progressing. SRAM Red brifters have arrived, Bontrager alloy bar bought, arrived and subsequently returned so I can get the carbon version. ISM Adamo saddle sold and SLR Kit Carbonio Flow purchased (happy birthday to me). 35mm setback seatpost head acquired. 3T 90mm stem (hopefully not fake) bought from ebay, thinking I should also buy an 80mm to be able to experiment with position a bit.

The bad news is that in changing my saddle and dropping my seatpost I over-torqued (well torque was not exceeding the stated maximum but apparently the maximum labelled is incorrect, or as Trek like to say "an absolute maximum and you may not want to torque this hard", as I subsequently found by looking on slowtwitch) the seatpost clamp and C-R-A-C-K. It's not too bad but I guess a UCI seatpost just came up the priority list...

Once carbon bar arrives, wheel project is complete, and funds for a new seatpost are available, it's off to an LBS (or in this case most likely a not-so-L BS).

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fletch62
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Location: Oztralien

by fletch62

Do you have any before/after type photo's so we can have a comparison between looks and setup?

mattjevans
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

Photos will be coming but not until I'm done

Just found that it appears with a Kit Carbonio saddle I apparently need to change out the Bontrager seat post head "ears" for specific oversize rail versions - can anyone confirm if that is correct ?

Also for a 50mm Planet X tubular rim, what size Zipp valve extenders? 48mm?

mattjevans
Posts: 275
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:07 pm

by mattjevans

Now with decent wheels, per conversion project. Non UCI seatpost in this pic

Image


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