Bont shoes
Moderator: robbosmans
So I received the shoes today and I'm moulding as we speak. I already know what part of the shoe I need to adjust and it's these parts:
What are you guys using as a "blunt" object? I'm using some Philips screw driver handle but I don't think it's making a difference. The adjustment I need to do on the arch is the most important because it hurts my foot a bit. Also, the sole would "mould" to my needs correct?
btw, these babies are STIFF. I did get my size correct.
What are you guys using as a "blunt" object? I'm using some Philips screw driver handle but I don't think it's making a difference. The adjustment I need to do on the arch is the most important because it hurts my foot a bit. Also, the sole would "mould" to my needs correct?
btw, these babies are STIFF. I did get my size correct.
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ahh, I should try harder then. I don't wanna mount the cleats when it's just "ok" fitting. I use Speedplays and it's a biatch to mount the cleats.
I baked it 3x already and I think I have to do 25-30 mins. The shoe cools off too quickly for me to be able to mould it enough.
I baked it 3x already and I think I have to do 25-30 mins. The shoe cools off too quickly for me to be able to mould it enough.
- MarkGiardini
- Posts: 493
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 5:55 am
- Location: Vladivostok
I found that the molding process worked better second time around.
I went lower on the temp than Bont specified, and left them slightly longer in the oven, checking the softness around the heel after 20 mins. I also put 3 pairs of socks when I did mine up and they fit me perfect.
I went lower on the temp than Bont specified, and left them slightly longer in the oven, checking the softness around the heel after 20 mins. I also put 3 pairs of socks when I did mine up and they fit me perfect.
KWalker wrote:chill out perv dogs, homegirl is still only 17.
- SolidSnake03
- Posts: 556
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:09 pm
When using a screw driver/blunt object make sure you keep steady and slow pressure on the spot. Don't just jab it a few times with it, hold the blunt object with pressure on the spot you want to "bump out" a bit. Basically, you need to push it out enough so when it cools it stays that way, think of how you let them cool on your feet so they keep the shape, same thing with the screw driver method.
Molded mine a couple times as well to get it right
Molded mine a couple times as well to get it right
Looks like I made a new 90 Proof friend
Blunt object method never worked for me, especially for the ouside of the shoe like on the pic.
What worked for me is the following:
Cut layers on a piece of chair leg felt, to shape the bunion, or whatever part has a pressure point. The felt must be a good cm around the pressure points. Work the ends with a progressive angle with a X-Acto knife.
Glue them directly to the foot.
Put two layers of socks, or a very thick sock.
Heat mold the shoe. I did 170°F for 25 minutes, a few times.
Do one shoe at a time. Put the insole rapidly back on after the shoe comes out of the oven, slip the foot inside, tighten and put all your weight on one leg (knee slightly bent), for at least 10 minutes, to "flatten" the arch if it aches. I did this as I have very flat feet.
The shoes will feel very big after you try them with your thin cycling socks only. But it seems like the material wants to go back to it's original shape. NOTE: I have the Leather version. The leather is still very hard and tight after 3 years.
Hope it helps ,
Louis
What worked for me is the following:
Cut layers on a piece of chair leg felt, to shape the bunion, or whatever part has a pressure point. The felt must be a good cm around the pressure points. Work the ends with a progressive angle with a X-Acto knife.
Glue them directly to the foot.
Put two layers of socks, or a very thick sock.
Heat mold the shoe. I did 170°F for 25 minutes, a few times.
Do one shoe at a time. Put the insole rapidly back on after the shoe comes out of the oven, slip the foot inside, tighten and put all your weight on one leg (knee slightly bent), for at least 10 minutes, to "flatten" the arch if it aches. I did this as I have very flat feet.
The shoes will feel very big after you try them with your thin cycling socks only. But it seems like the material wants to go back to it's original shape. NOTE: I have the Leather version. The leather is still very hard and tight after 3 years.
Hope it helps ,
Louis
That is suggested by bont as well.
I ended up having good results molding one or two problem areas with my wifes hair dryer; way easier than heating the whole shoes in my very unpredictable oven. For one area I wanted closer, I heated it with it on my foot and then pushed it the materil softened. One area I wanted farther out(very similar to your second picture) I attached material to the area and put on large socks but only heated that area with the hair dryer, so everything else stayed pretty tight but that spot changed.
I ended up having good results molding one or two problem areas with my wifes hair dryer; way easier than heating the whole shoes in my very unpredictable oven. For one area I wanted closer, I heated it with it on my foot and then pushed it the materil softened. One area I wanted farther out(very similar to your second picture) I attached material to the area and put on large socks but only heated that area with the hair dryer, so everything else stayed pretty tight but that spot changed.
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- Posts: 26
- Joined: Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:12 pm
I still can't get my bonts quite right. Even with great supporting insoles, spesh green with added arch support and shimming my cleats. Tried so many cleat positions and shim variations
My right forefoot seems to still go to sleep when I'm putting pressure on longer rides. If i pull up for a bit it'll come back around.
Anyone experienced anything similar? They're not too tight, and it's not hotspots. Really love the shoes fit, but just want to get it to work 100%.
I'd guess I'm putting pressure/pinching a nerve but don't know how to stop this?
Also I wonder if it's from the sole being super stiff.
My right forefoot seems to still go to sleep when I'm putting pressure on longer rides. If i pull up for a bit it'll come back around.
Anyone experienced anything similar? They're not too tight, and it's not hotspots. Really love the shoes fit, but just want to get it to work 100%.
I'd guess I'm putting pressure/pinching a nerve but don't know how to stop this?
Also I wonder if it's from the sole being super stiff.
I have had a pair of CTT-3 for about a month now, and my biggest complaint has to be the bont ratchet mechanism. I find that it will release under load and I will end my ride with the strap VERY loose. Luckily, the heat moulding makes it so I could pedal without straps at all, but I'd like to get a solution at some point.
I was perusing the pro cycling thread, Adam Hansen's new shoes have sidi wire buckles as the main straps. Would it be possible to retrofit this onto the bonts with a minimum of stitching, and have a wire closure?
Stefano
I was perusing the pro cycling thread, Adam Hansen's new shoes have sidi wire buckles as the main straps. Would it be possible to retrofit this onto the bonts with a minimum of stitching, and have a wire closure?
Stefano
Stefano wrote:I have had a pair of CTT-3 for about a month now, and my biggest complaint has to be the bont ratchet mechanism. I find that it will release under load and I will end my ride with the strap VERY loose. Luckily, the heat moulding makes it so I could pedal without straps at all, but I'd like to get a solution at some point.
I was perusing the pro cycling thread, Adam Hansen's new shoes have sidi wire buckles as the main straps. Would it be possible to retrofit this onto the bonts with a minimum of stitching, and have a wire closure?
Stefano
I read somewhere you can use the Sidi straps/buckle.
I also agree on their buckle system. I think it downright sucks. I'm thinking of changing the buckle to Sidi buckles assuming the straps would fit the buckle. I can try and experiment on it actually as I have some Sidis too.
Do you mean the buckles or the wire closures? I guess buckles would work too, I think it would be cool though to do the wire closure thing though...
Does anyone have a picture of how the sidi wire/ techno buckles mount onto the shoe?
Stefano
Does anyone have a picture of how the sidi wire/ techno buckles mount onto the shoe?
Stefano
Apologies in advance if this has already been discussed,but surely their sizing chart is nonsense? It puts me at an 8.5 if every cycling shoe I have ever worn is an 11 (and 10 in other shoes). My foot is 268mm long which in inches is pretty much 10.5 - and I always thought that's what the respective sizes signify? I am a little lost?
Also I saw that ventilation has been a concern wth Bont shows to some on here - any word on the new Vaypor Premium? Any improvement?
Also I saw that ventilation has been a concern wth Bont shows to some on here - any word on the new Vaypor Premium? Any improvement?
I don't see what you being an 11 in other shoes has to do with your Bont size? Their website is pretty clear that if your foot is 268mm long you should be looking at a size 8.5. Your size in other brands is irrelevant. No reason to believe that sizes should match across brands.
FWIW you may want to go up half a size to have some extra room for the sock. That seems to work well for people in general.
FWIW you may want to go up half a size to have some extra room for the sock. That seems to work well for people in general.
- MarkGiardini
- Posts: 493
- Joined: Mon Apr 22, 2013 5:55 am
- Location: Vladivostok
+1
I followed the instructions on Bont's website, according to their chart, and using my measurements, I was an EU 45, no dramas - fit great, even pre-molding.
FWIW, I'm also a 45 in S-Works and Northwave, but I would use Bont's specific chart before just assuming anything.
I followed the instructions on Bont's website, according to their chart, and using my measurements, I was an EU 45, no dramas - fit great, even pre-molding.
FWIW, I'm also a 45 in S-Works and Northwave, but I would use Bont's specific chart before just assuming anything.
KWalker wrote:chill out perv dogs, homegirl is still only 17.
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