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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:37 pm
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Location: it's raining, it must be uk
veganeric wrote:
Have either of you (or anyone else) tried transferring it to a squeeze bottle, as I've seen some mechanics do? I imagine that would eliminate the problem, as the small surface area of the tip could easily be cleaned off with solvant before recapping. This would have the added benefit of making application easier.


haven't tried it, but those guys use loads of the stuff so it's probably not in the bottle for long

fwiw we used to decant fibre cleaning solvents into squeezy dispenser bottles for ease of use and to avoid contaminating the main containers, 'sealed' and left alone the bottles emptied themselves fairly fast


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Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 3:55 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:24 pm 
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Location: MN
Good to know. I guess I'll stick to the single use tubes. Thanks again!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:10 am 
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Some of those guys also use a thinner to make the glue easier to pour from their bottles. I personally wouldn't recommend emulating that bit of pro mechanic lore. We used to do that with Clement 'Red' glue, too.

@astranoc, I don't believe in 'sanding' the rims, though lots of other 'old-timers' probably still do it. It is enough to clean the rim well before starting your glue job. The trick is to use several (I prefer many) thin, even layers, letting the glue cure between applications. I prefer overnight. I like to apply two layers to the basetape, but it depends upon the tire. The new Conti Comps seem to want more. I put the last layer on the basetape, not the rim, but either probably works.

As a spare, I just use an old tubular that I have removed. I redo the basetape glue and let it dry overnight before folding and carrying it under the saddle.


Last edited by Geoff on Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:10 am 
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Multi-post...


Last edited by Geoff on Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:10 am 
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Multi-post...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:36 am 
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Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
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Location: Belgium
Hi,

Quote:
Some of those guys also use a thinner to make the glue easier to pour from their bottles. I personally wouldn't recommend emulating that bit of pro mechanic lore. We used to do that with Clement 'Red' glue, too.


Rim cement is a carefully formulated mix of chemicals. By adding other chemicals such as thinners you're actually changing the formula. No one can predict the outcome so don't do it.

Contact cements such as tubular glue work by static adhesion. For as long as a rim is grease free it will stick. You use multiple thin layers as anchors for the next layer.

The base layer should be fully set and cured which usually takes 24 hours. This your anchor layer onto which all consequent layers attach. It is the most important layer in the entire process.


Ciao, ;)

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:14 am 
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@astranoc: here is a good step by step on folding a tubular:

http://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f7 ... -2283.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I'm sure it's been posted a few times, but what the heck, it's a new season....

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:56 am 
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Hopefully not too far off topic...is anyone taking this approach to tubular spares?
http://www.thomasgerlach.com/2011/10/gold-standard-gear-best-tubular-spare.html


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 9:29 am 
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Location: it's raining, it must be uk
i use a tufo elite jet <160g, it's got a bit of protection

still rolls up not too much bigger than a standard butyl inner tube, ok in a jersey pocket with minitool etc.

tufo vs. creditcard sized thing vs. conti race 28 tube

Image


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 1:28 pm 
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Hmmmmm. That rolls-up pretty small. Sure a lot more compact than an old Conti Comp...


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 12:55 pm 
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I've been carrying a Tufo "S3 Lite < 195g" (this is the 19mm model) around for a year. Fits into a tool bottle nicely, with most of the other things needed. S3 lite looks great for a spare, though.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 18, 2013 8:22 pm 
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I've put the second layer on the rims and now it's completely dry, should it be sticky to touch or it's normal that is that dry?
Now.. should I put a thin layer on both the rim and the tyre or just the tyre is enough?

Btw thank you all for the awesome help in this thread, few months ago gluing tyres was something that I would avoid doing myself but now it doesn't look that bad!

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 19, 2013 5:13 am 
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Nope. If properly dried overnight, it should appear quite dry to touch. Looks are deceiving, though.

I like to put the last layer of fresh glue on the basetape. I believe it helps me get the tire over the last bit of rim and helps me centre the tire. I know lots of others put it on the rim bed. I think either will work fine.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 10:30 am 
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Thanks again. I am ready to put the last layer, but I noticed on some spots on the bead of the rim there are parts with more glue making the surface uneven. Am I overthinking this or I have to clear the extra glue? If i have to clear it, do I just scrape it away?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:39 am 
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it'll be fine, the force of mounting and inflating will squish out those minor irregularities


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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:39 am 


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