Hongfu FM-066/Chinese open mould frame thread

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glepore
Posts: 1408
Joined: Thu Mar 28, 2013 4:42 pm
Location: Virginia USA

by glepore

eric wrote:You might want to put some padding on the rear brake cable inside the frame. I didn't and mine rattles on the frame. I need to remove it and add some rubber donuts or similar.

There's a good amount of tire clearance on the frame.

Interesting comment on the cable, mine has been quiet so far, but jagwire gives you donuts etc, so yeah, I might pull mine and add some.

Only bothersome thing for me is that the mold lines along the tt and dt are very visible, but I've not had another nude carbon bike so maybe that's just par.

I did get the hongfu integrated bars, and was bummed that they only came gloss, but some scotchbrite helped. Any other ways to matte them out short of spraying them?

Funny that both torontocycles and jerseycycles are both down when I want some ti goodies...
Cysco Ti custom Campy SR mechanical (6.9);Berk custom (5.6); Serotta Ottrott(6.8) ; Anvil Custom steel Etap;1996 Colnago Technos Record

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btompkins0112
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Location: Mississippi

by btompkins0112

The lines on the TT and DT are par.....

by Weenie


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spliid
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:13 pm

by spliid

Hi there!

I have just assembled the included neco headset with the fork included. I have used the lower crownrace but should that even be used? It gives a small gab between fork and frame? And the bearing is all the way up :P !


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ms6073
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Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

Two things, the crown race does not look like it is completetly seated on the fork crown, and ensure that the 'bevel' on the bottom bearing matches that of the race inside the bottom of the headtube. Also, some people have found epoxy residue on the races which prevented headset bearings from completely seating so I would also check that as well.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

spliid
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:13 pm

by spliid

Okay thanks. I can't slam that crown race further down. It's not completely flat that's why it seems like its not totally seated at the fork crown. Also I'm pretty sure the bearings was clear. Will check again. I just thought others had the sane problem when they received this frame.

eric
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
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by eric

On mine I had to really whack the crown race seating tool (a piece of PVC pipe). Greasing the fork seating area made a big difference.

metanoize
Posts: 186
Joined: Thu Jul 02, 2009 5:53 am

by metanoize

spliid wrote:Hi there!

I have just assembled the included neco headset with the fork included. I have used the lower crownrace but should that even be used? It gives a small gab between fork and frame? And the bearing is all the way up :P !




That shouldn't be the case, something is wrong. Did you use the right tool to set the crown-race into position? It looks upside down!

eric
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by eric

It does, doesn't it?

The conical side should be up. It matches with the underside of the bearing. The bearing fits with the outer beveled edge up (matching the seat in the frame) and the inner beveled edge against the conical side of the crown race.

spliid
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:13 pm

by spliid

The conical side is up :-). I just used a rubber hammer since my PVC tube couldn't go all the way down. The fork is to wide. Even if the conical side is up the other side is not totally flat. That's why it doesn't go all the way down. Maybe I should by a wider PVC tube and try slamming a bit more. I just don't want to smash the fork.

Thanks again

system787
Posts: 126
Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 1:49 pm
Location: LA/OC, California

by system787

I sanded down the fork crown with 180 grit, then 800 to smooth things out. I also used the 180 grit to remove the paint layer from the crown race before I tapped it in.

If I were to buy another FM066sl, I would probably stick with a quality headset instead of the neco one. I didn't like the bearings too much.

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ms6073
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Location: Houston, Texas

by ms6073

spliid wrote:Maybe I should by a wider PVC tube and try slamming a bit more. I just don't want to smash the fork.
It might be advisable to visit a local shop where they are likely to have a Park Tool CRS-15 Crown Race Setting Tool for over size fork crowns.
- Michael
"People should stop expecting normal from me... seriously, we all know it's never going to happen"

spliid
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:13 pm

by spliid

I have bought the pvc tube since no bike shop are open today. I can't get lower. I maybe slammed it 0,5 mm. I will take the crown race of and sand it down and try again.
If it doesn't solve the problem I will bring it to the shop. They are doing the cables anyway.
Cheers

Privateer
Posts: 360
Joined: Thu Feb 03, 2011 2:28 pm

by Privateer

It might also be worth getting them to gently face the crown to remove any excess resin or clearcoat.

spliid
Posts: 149
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2012 6:13 pm

by spliid

Yes, good idea.

wrcompositi
Posts: 135
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 3:57 am

by wrcompositi

@spliid, I encountered the same problem as you described. The crown race seat OD of my 066's fork is 40mm, which is way too large for the Neco crown race(ID 39.5mm), so I just cut a slot on the crown race and installed the crown race by hands. Since the crown race is expanded, the lower bearing sits higher on the bevel, and there's about 2mm of gap under my frame's headtube. The other day, I bought some spare headset bearings(unbranded) on web, the spec of lower bearing from the Neco headset is OD52xID40xH8, but the seller only had OD52xID40xH7 bearing in stock, which just solved my problem!

I don't know which headset uses lower bearing of 7mm height, maybe you could try to get a hold of one of these?

by Weenie


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