The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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Thanks!
When those UL's hit, will they have that odd bearing in them and be "hard to service" as I have heard is complaint on the ORC?
When those UL's hit, will they have that odd bearing in them and be "hard to service" as I have heard is complaint on the ORC?
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- Zen Cyclery
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I read an article from Rt Wheelcraft that said they will be easier to service. All though since I haven't seen them in person yet I cant really say for sure. Time will tell!
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Does anyone know specs or costs yet?
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ORC-UL: Wheel-building dimensions
ORC-UL-S10
RF = 57.0
LF = 40.0
CR = 19.7
CL = 37.1
ORC-UL-S11/C11
RF = 57.0
LF = 40.0
CR = 18.0
CL = 38.8
ORC-UL-S10
RF = 57.0
LF = 40.0
CR = 19.7
CL = 37.1
ORC-UL-S11/C11
RF = 57.0
LF = 40.0
CR = 18.0
CL = 38.8
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I have 2 decisions here (besides aesthetics). I know I am doing a Pacenti 23 rim front and rear, that part was easy.
1. Do I save $ and go with WI hubs front and rear? Do Alchemy or CK because they are worth the large uptick in price over WI? Mismatch them with ELF in front and a WI outback?
2. Spokes. I know I will get a better wheel set with blades because the wheel builder can if the spokes are twisting vs. round spokes. But are they worth 3x the cost? Will the benefits be realized in THAT much better of a wheel set, and will I notice anything else while riding between round & bladed?
Anyone have pics of custom wheel colors on a black Tarmac? Im thinking red hubs might pop and red nipples? otherwise I'll just black it out.
1. Do I save $ and go with WI hubs front and rear? Do Alchemy or CK because they are worth the large uptick in price over WI? Mismatch them with ELF in front and a WI outback?
2. Spokes. I know I will get a better wheel set with blades because the wheel builder can if the spokes are twisting vs. round spokes. But are they worth 3x the cost? Will the benefits be realized in THAT much better of a wheel set, and will I notice anything else while riding between round & bladed?
Anyone have pics of custom wheel colors on a black Tarmac? Im thinking red hubs might pop and red nipples? otherwise I'll just black it out.
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@boston bull- You will see no real world difference between the T11s and R45s or Alchemys. The only downside is the extra 30 grams, and if you can get over that part, they are preferable in almost every aspect. Quality is easily in the same league as its more expensive counterparts, and the White would be easier to service than both the Kings and Alchemys.
Regarding the spokes, just go with a round option. Cxrays are nice, but Lasers will yield the same ride quality.
Regarding the spokes, just go with a round option. Cxrays are nice, but Lasers will yield the same ride quality.
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I can get rid of those 30 grams with skewers later on, or nicer spokes possibly!
How loud are the WI? Are they like CK Classics by chance?
You feel confident that I wont have a less than stellar wheeelset if I don't go bladed?
Lasers are the round spoke you would recommend?
How loud are the WI? Are they like CK Classics by chance?
You feel confident that I wont have a less than stellar wheeelset if I don't go bladed?
Lasers are the round spoke you would recommend?
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The T11s are pretty darn quiet. They are a totally different sound than the Classics too.
kavitator wrote:Yes this are Bartime hubs - i will have one road wheelset 60mm tubular - when i will get more real world info i can share here.
Hubs are really nice done and 5 bearings in rear run really smooth - front also
Hi kavitator, what hubs are you comparing these hubs too?
What spoke lacing did you use on the tubs?
thanks KL
hello
lacing is normal - i just go did with 24 rear - 2x on both sides. For left flange spokes insert you must remove left flange - easy job(5min). Those hubs has 17mm aluminium axle, beraing bed supported with steel rings, and beraings (5 sealed in rear) run very very smooth.
Spoke holes on flange are tighter than others (enouhg big for CX Rays) - so you cant put washers under spoke head
tension ratio is nothing special - i get 125kg on DS and 55-65kg on NDS. But shorter spokes becouse of bigger flange on DS do a good job to better stiffnes (spokes on DS are 276mm, on NDS 290mm).
I have a question for H+SON ARCHETYPE rims - what will be max spoke tenison - can i go with 130kg on DS?
Cheers
lacing is normal - i just go did with 24 rear - 2x on both sides. For left flange spokes insert you must remove left flange - easy job(5min). Those hubs has 17mm aluminium axle, beraing bed supported with steel rings, and beraings (5 sealed in rear) run very very smooth.
Spoke holes on flange are tighter than others (enouhg big for CX Rays) - so you cant put washers under spoke head
tension ratio is nothing special - i get 125kg on DS and 55-65kg on NDS. But shorter spokes becouse of bigger flange on DS do a good job to better stiffnes (spokes on DS are 276mm, on NDS 290mm).
I have a question for H+SON ARCHETYPE rims - what will be max spoke tenison - can i go with 130kg on DS?
Cheers
Hi kavitator, thanks for the information. Yes, 125kg DS and 55-65kg NDS (NDS tension ratio of 44% to 52%) is nothing special is it, but 17mm aluminium axle, etc sounds good
Have you noticed if the 2 piece hub has affected stiffness or responsiveness in anyway ...
Sorry I can't help you with H+SON ARCHETYPE rims, although I have seen mentioned 120kgf front and 130kgf rear ... hope this is helpful
Have you noticed if the 2 piece hub has affected stiffness or responsiveness in anyway ...
Sorry I can't help you with H+SON ARCHETYPE rims, although I have seen mentioned 120kgf front and 130kgf rear ... hope this is helpful
Here are some more photos of Bartime
http://kavitec.blogspot.com/2013/04/fot ... etype.html
for ride i still waiting to get warmer - winter still here :/
http://kavitec.blogspot.com/2013/04/fot ... etype.html
for ride i still waiting to get warmer - winter still here :/
kavitator wrote:For left flange spokes insert you must remove left flange - easy job(5min).
It may be difficult to replace a broken NDS spoke. Did you lace the pulling spokes heads out?
It can be possible also with flange in place - bend spokes (it could go with 1,5mm or cx rays but with 1,8mm it will be hard)
Pulling spokes are heads in - as i know it is not immmportant for performance
Pulling spokes are heads in - as i know it is not immmportant for performance
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- ALAN Carbon+
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I am pretty much settled on using Stans 340 (still open to other suggestions though) for my upcoming build with DT 240 hubs, I had thought of using Sapim Laser spokes (28/32), would this be ok? Or should I be looking for something a touch stiffer?