The wheelbuilding thread

[kavitator]

Yes this are Bartime hubs - i will have one road wheelset 60mm tubular - when i will get more real world info i can share here.
Hubs are really nice done and 5 bearings in rear run really smooth - front also

[Bostonbull]

Hi Bostonbull, no, but the Pacenti SL23, H+Son Archetype, Kinlin XR-270, Kinlin XC-279, Stans 340, Velocity A23, Hed Belgium C2 are often mentioned on this forum, including FLO30 rims.
Any rim with a depth of >= 25mm, or Off Centre Rim (OCR), will work with the DT240 hubs (28/32) and produce a good road wheelset.
The thoughts by Jason/Fairwheel and Eric Gottesman/Ergott wheels are quite good and helpful, don't you think so ...

Eric's Kinlin XR270 and Stans 340s are good suggestions as are Pacenti SL23, H+Son Archetype, and Kinlin XC-279 ... it's good to have choices especially when the choices are all good

thanks KL

What are some hub options, lacing patterns, and spokes should I be after for this build?

[KLabs]

Hi Bostonbull, have a look at this group of hubs ... http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/updates-and-news/2012-hub-review-information-overload.html ... there is also Novatec, Bitex, Miche, Choice, and a few others ...

The hub kavitator has just posted, Bartime, looks very interesting
thanks KL

[Bostonbull]

Great read!!

Going from that review I would lean toward an Elf in front and either a CKR45 (wish it were as loud as the Classic or MTB CK hubs) or WI H3 (loud?) out back.

Should I be looking at others that maybe weren't in that review but are readily available from places such as FairWheel or ProWheelBuilder?


The H+Son ArchType really caught my eye from that review site as well.



What about spokes, and acing patterns?

[KLabs]

Hi Bostonbull, Elf, CKR45, and H+Son are good choices. The other forum members are for more knowledgeable than I am so hopefully they will provide some advice, also

Spokes available are Sapim, Pillar, DT Swiss, MAC, and a few others ...
http://www.bikehubstore.com/category-s/131.htm
http://www.bdopcycling.com/Pillar-Spokes.asp#ROUNDBUTTEDSPOKES

Conventional lacing choices for the rear wheel, depending on hub/rim/rider weight, are 2xNDS/DS, 3xNDS/DS, or 2xNDS 3xDS, or even 2xNDS 4xDS.
If you are less than 70kgs then 1x and 0x can be considered but they are not as durable
There are quite a variety non-conventional rear wheel arrangements but the 16-8 arrangement is the most popular

Conventional lacing choices for the front wheel, depending on hub/rim/rider weight, are 0x, 1x, 2x, or even 3x

thanks KL

[Bostonbull]

What would be the key differences in spokes I should look for when researching?

I am 190lbs if that helps.

Looking for a wheelset to do it all and be trouble free in terms of not having to be trued every month.

[eric]

The White Ind hubs are very good quality and durable but are less expensive than many other top hubs.

I have had the fewest spoke breakages with Sapim spokes, so that's what I build wheels with. But I'm just one guy who has gone through a lot of wheels, so my experience with other spokes may be affected by wheel build quality.

Which leads me to the last point, that the durability of wheels is affected quite a bit by the skill of the person building them. So far I have built some decent wheels and some not so good wheels, but I am learning.

The wheels that Prowheelbuilder did for me have not needed truing, but they are race wheels so I don't ride them every day.

[Zen Cyclery]

@bostonbull- It may be worth going with the ELF front and the new ORC Ul rear. It should build up to be a bit stiffer than the Kings, and it will be quite a bit lighter.

Concerning the rims, I think the Archetype is a decent option. I think the SL23 from Pacenti is a superior option though.

[Bostonbull]

Dove in last night, and I think you're right, the SL23 is the rim for my build.

I have read the ORC is great hub, but suffers from durability issues? Any truth to this, or are certain people looking to grind an axe?

[Zen Cyclery]

@bostonbull- I have found the ORC to have consistent durability. I will admit that I had some premature bearing wear on one but I'm pretty sure it was my fault. I pulled it apart just for kicks and upon reassembly I think that I adjusted the preload slightly too tight.

The only real downside (of the old ORC at least) is that the preload is a bit more finicky than a White or King. Other than that, I think it is a superior hub.

[ergott]

some new hubs - what do you think about geometry?
http://kavitec.blogspot.com/2013/03/new ... -hubs.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

How are you supposed to put spoke into the left flange without bending them a lot to pass over the right flange? You should probably have either straight pull spokes there or they must be laced radial, heads in.

What are the center to flange dimensions?

[kavitator]

You can go with radial or 1x and heads in
Hub is adjustable for 10 or 11 speed shimano. Remove left side of hub and insert spokes - tricky but it is price for that kind of geometry



Dimensions:
rear powerflange hub
L/R flange to center: 35/18mm
L/R PCD: 37/90mm
250 gramms

front:
Flange to center: 40,5mm
PCD: 30mm
70 gramms

[Bostonbull]

What are your thoughts on the WI H2/H3 being too extreme in its angle to get great tension? Anything to watch out for here? I can envision saving some serious $ and doing WI wheel set on SL23's. Otherwise its CKR45's and a lighter pocket book.

[Zen Cyclery]

@bostonbull- I assume you mean the T11s? The H3 had better flange spacing on paper than the T11 rear but from what I can tell it has made no real world difference. The only downside of the Whites is the weight. But 30 or so extra grams in the hubs isn't going to be noticeable beyond placebo.

[ergott]

What are your thoughts on the WI H2/H3 being too extreme in its angle to get great tension? Anything to watch out for here? I can envision saving some serious $ and doing WI wheel set on SL23's. Otherwise its CKR45's and a lighter pocket book.

For the price of Chris King, get Alchemy UL. If you go with T11 hubs, up the rear spoke count 4 and lace them cross on the drive side and radial heads out on the NDS. Use a heavier gauge spoke on the drive side as well. That's how I've been building that rim/hub combo.