Titanium frame needs a refresh

[jedijeck]

Hi everyone!

I've just acquired a 2005 Merlin Extralight that is in need of a refresh. What do you recommend I do to restore the frame to it's former brushed finish glory? I'm also going to need to replace the frame decals (as they have been removed by the previous owner). Which are the correct fonts for this model year? Any recommendations where I can good source them apart from the 'bay'?

Many thanks in advance!

[Flasher]

Steel wool

[teleguy57]

I wouldn't do steel wool on ti; can leave tiny bits of iron embedded in the surface which can rust.

http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=106323&highlight=Scotchbrite
and http://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=99881&highlight=Scotchbrite

and did I mention Scotchbrite? http://forums.thepaceline.net/showpost.php?p=1303720&postcount=9

[ipenguinking]

Purple Scotch Brite is what Seven uses and I think the result looks just perfect.

[MarkThailand]

I use standard green Scotch Brite pads for minor touch-ups of hairline scratches on my Lynskey's, which came with hand brushed bright-brushed finish. The key is to use steady, gentle, uni-directional strokes, with the knowledge that you can always repeat if necessary. Also, another key point is to look how consistent the original brushing was and to not exceed it.

I believe that Lynskey uses a specific Scotch Brite pad that is slightly thinner due to usage, cut into long strips, and brushes each tube in a perpendicular direction - as seen in a YouTube video.

The four levels of finishing for the Lynskeys can be seen on their website:
1) industrial mill (probably bead blasted and never to be replicated by a lay person without a bead/sand blaster in a sanding room with proper PPE) (usually free because it probably takes no more than 30 minutes), (This is Moots's standard and Lynskey's free finish)
2) machine brushed (with a circular sander with a scotch brite pad attached, resulting in a general brushed finish but with some irregular direction and some irregular consistency) (but cheaper because it does not require a lot of man hours)
3) bright brushed (hand brushed with strips of scotch bright) (expensive because it probably takes at least 4 man hours) (very beautiful and easily maintained by lay people)
4) polished (crazy glossy mirror finish) (crazy expensive because it probably takes more man hours to polish than to build the bike)

Have fun - take your time - be gentle.

Mark

[jedijeck]

Hey guys, thanks for the great tips and links. Will give the scotch brite a go.

Any ideas on where i can source some Merlin decals? There are a few on the bay from the US that I'll order if none is available in the UK for less.

[Flasher]

I wouldn't do steel wool on ti; can leave tiny bits of iron embedded in the surface which can rust.

Really, would love to see some pictures...........

Never had any problems on either of my ti bikes, YMMV.