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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:04 am 
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Posts: 249
I'm am considering light clincher/notubes rim of Stan's Alpha 340 laced on 20/24 Tune mig 70 front and Tune mig/mag 170 rear.
Hub set is 250 grams. The Stan's rim is 385 grams.

This wheelset comes with wheelsmith DB15 black spokes and alloy nipples
all together becomes sub 1300 grams wheelset.

Anyone knows if I can go on this spoke count or I have to go up to 24/28 which I'm not fancy of.

I'm 170lb (75KG) and I'm not planning to go up on weight, I'm not racing, just training and like mainly to look for climbs. I'm not an aggressive rider as I said I'm not racing. My main question for you out there if this wheelset I have described is strong enough.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:33 am 
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On the 340s I would go 24/28H even if you don't race......you are probably looking at 50-60 extra grams.
You could switch to Sapin CX-Ray and lower the weight...or if your budget allows maybe a Mig 45 up front.

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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:33 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:42 am 
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Yes I know it is less the weight here I'm concerned of but the look, in this case. The wild lacing of too many spokes just doesn't seem nice. Unless I have too!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 12:47 am 
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Location: durp durp durp
Pretty much same weight as you @ 73kg, 6ft.

I've got the mk2 340s rim built 28h onto old record hub. 24h on tune mig up front on a 340s mk.1. Have regretted going 24h front, you can definitely go with 20h front.

With about 4k kms on that rear wheel, I think its about right for my riding / weight - which is generally moderate to good condition roads with very occasional roads that see farm traffic which have large pot holes & uneven surfaces. Generally mixed use on hills & rolling terrain. I've needed to true it once or twice & that's just for the sake of having it running at >.5mm side to side in true - its held up pretty well.

If you want the build to last & not have to pay it attention I'd go with 28h. If you don't mind dropping it into a stand every 1-2k kms then you can go with 24h. You may have better roads & finesse than me, but that has been my experience with the build. YMMV etc...

Do get them built up as evenly as possible & with a lot of care - they are a lighter rim, so can't be quickly & roughly built up imo if the are going to stay round & true for long term.

FWIW I've also used a 32h set of mk.1 stans for parts of this past season as a training set - they've held up pretty well, have needed a bit of attention about 2k kms in, but have settled down for about another 3k kms beyond that without needing any other adjustments or truing.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 1:04 am 
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I think that the 20/24 hole count is one that you could get away with. I don't think that it would be ideal though. The 340 is a relatively soft hoop and I've always felt that it needs to be overbuilt a bit. With that said, go with a 20/28 or 24/28 hole count. I think that would be much more practical for your weight.

I think you will like the Tune hubs though. They seem to have consistent durability, even though they are quite light.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 2:29 am 
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Thank you for your input. Anyone knows what will be the spoke length for my constellation?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:00 am 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator/

youll likely find your parts here...

front with 20 spokes, radial laced should be 280.5mm.

rear on the Mag 180 (dunno is dimensions are the same) would be 299 L, 298 R in 3 cross. Can check for 1x,2x and radial (non drive only would be recommended....) as well.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:22 am 
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I had no luck with the same combo as 20/24 and am the same weight. However the rim has been beefed up a little since then.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 3:54 am 
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Location: Irvine, CA
I had the exact wheelset but with sapim xray spokes laced up in 20/24. I weight 170 lbs and do not race. Road conditions in my area are quit good. I sold them because they were too flexy in both front and rear. I did not like the feel!


Last edited by mnmasotto on Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:56 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:21 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
WasFab wrote:
Thank you for your input. Anyone knows what will be the spoke length for my constellation?


It depends on what spoke lengths and lacing you go with:

20/24 Hole Count
-Front-278mm (radial)
-Drive Side Rear- 282mm (2x)
-Non Drive Rear-286mm (2x)

24/28 Hole Count
-Front-278mm (radial)
-Drive Side Rear-290mm (3x)
-Non Drive Rear-284mm (2x)

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:34 am 
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Thanks Zen
You still think I should stick with the 20/24 or change to 24/28?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 4:56 am 
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@WasFab- Well, realistically you could get away with either one. I do think that the 24/28 would be more ideal though. The 340 is by no means the stiffest hoop out there so you really can't overbuild it.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:07 am 
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Location: Denver
I have a set of Stans 340's (the newer version) laced with cxrays to Alchemy hubs, and on the advice of my builder went with 24 x1/ 28x3. I was also a bit concerned about the esthetics, but they actually look very nice, and I love the performance. The set weighs in at about 1275g (and I weigh in at about 59k)


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:18 am 
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@zen I see what you saying and I might change the hubs to 24/28
Which spoke you will always consider, or for my choice, would it be the butted one or the bladed type?


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Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:18 am 


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2013 5:25 am 
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Location: McCall, ID
@wasfab- We predominantly use the Cxray from Sapim. It seems to be resistant to gouging if your unfortunate enough to drop a cassette or whatnot. And they should build up to be pretty rigid. They aren't a truly bladed spoke (more ovalized) which keeps them aero even with a higher yaw angle.

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