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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:17 pm
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Location: near Seattle
I just lowered the -10 degree stem on my 1999 Colnago Oval Master Titanium another 10 mm, so that it's now below 40mm of spacers. It can't go any lower. The bike would look better with, say, 30mm of the spacer tower lopped off. Would it be worthwhile to have an experienced mechanic cut the steerer tube? It's a 1" steerer tube, on a fork labeled Colnago. In the unlikely event of a mechanic error, it might be hard to find parts to make it right. I'm not thinking about maintaining versatile sizing to make it easier to sell the bike later.

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Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 6:52 pm 


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 7:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 4:43 pm
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Bring it to a good mechanic, and not to one of Walmart's expert bike assemblers.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:16 pm 
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Location: New York
If this is a carbon steer tube you can use a tool to keep the metal saw blade straight.

If this is a aluminum steer tube you can use a tool to keep the metal saw blade straight.

If this is a threaded steel tube you can do the same but make sure you measure correctly and cut it straight or you will be unable to thread the headset on. Then you will need to re-thread.

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 5:18 am 
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On threaded steerer tubes, always put the first threaded part of the headset on the fork before cutting. When you are done, removing the cone will clean up any deformed threads.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 1:35 pm 
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Location: New York
That is a good idea to do it that way. Maybe cleaning and adding a bit of oil to the threads as well before removing the screwed in headset piece.

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I never took drugs to improve my performance at any time. I will be willing to stick my finger into a polygraph test if anyone with big media pull wants to take issue. If you buy a signed poster now it will not be tarnished later. --Graeme Obree


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 9:39 pm
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besides using a cutting guide for cutting the carbon steerer tube, i use a carbon cutting blade (without actual teeth, but a textured cutting edge), and wrap the area i'm cutting with 3M Scotch tape to prevent fraying. after cutting, i peel the tape off and use a metal file (singlecut) and or sand paper to smooth out the cut edge...slightly bevel the edges. this keeps the steerer tube edge from catching the rubber seal on the top headset cap.

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2003 5:18 pm
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Location: Austin
taina wrote:
I just lowered the -10 degree stem on my 1999 Colnago Oval Master Titanium another 10 mm, so that it's now below 40mm of spacers. It can't go any lower. The bike would look better with, say, 30mm of the spacer tower lopped off. Would it be worthwhile to have an experienced mechanic cut the steerer tube? It's a 1" steerer tube, on a fork labeled Colnago. In the unlikely event of a mechanic error, it might be hard to find parts to make it right. I'm not thinking about maintaining versatile sizing to make it easier to sell the bike later.


you know switching to a -6* will net you another 5mm stack(for a 100mm stem)

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:17 pm
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Location: near Seattle
I started to get back into cycling three years ago. But I never got out of trigonometry. With getting rid of spacers and lowering stem angle, I've lowered my handlebars almost 12 cm over three years, in small increments, months apart. By the time I'm good enough to deserve a Crumpton, I'll be ready to go lower than the headtube on my current bike reasonably allows.

Thanks for the advice. I had a very good mechanic cut the steerer tube.

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Saura mon coeur que mon cul poise.

adapted from Rabelais


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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:18 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 12:46 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 11, 2003 9:47 pm
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
http://yojimg.net/bike/web_tools/stem.php


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