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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 2044
Location: Canada
On a cross frameset, with canti brakes, I'm using 25 mm tires. The raceblades long take tires up to 23 mm according to the website.

http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=fr&a=prod ... NG%20BLACK" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is there a better option ? Many, many models from SKS... I'm lurking the Velo Cross 55 and the raceblades XL kit... :noidea:

Louis :)

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 10:08 pm 

Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:22 am
Posts: 37
I'm using the Raceblade longs with 25 mm tires on a standard road bike with no problems about coverage or clearance and know many people who do the same.

That being said, with your setup, I am pretty sure you could get more full coverage fenders on your bike easily. In that case I would recommend the SKS P35. These do a much better job of protecting your brakes and even front derailleur from grime. The trade-off would be that they are not as easy on/off.

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 10:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:14 pm
Posts: 3124
Get full coverage fenders. A few years ago I began mounting them on friends' "race bikes" for the winter, complete with light rear and front flaps that were riveted on to the fenders and extended almost to the ground. The back flap is mandatory if you're doing group rides and the front flap can do a lot to prevent your feet from becoming numb with wetness. You'll still get wet if its pouring but it will mostly be from the clean stuff in the sky versus the road grunge that gets thrown at you. But full fenders on a higher end road bike generally require quite a lot of cutouts (around brakes as bridges and forks) to get enough clearance. But if you can manage, it sure is a lot nicer to ride a decent bike (even though it has mudguards) rather than a beater. As for commuting and/or touring, for me it's a no brainer. Full fenders makes wet days much more bearable.

C59 Five Years Later
My Special Colnago EPQ
Trek Emonda SL

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 3:44 am
Posts: 2044
Location: Canada
I have no eyelets on the bike rear triangle. (I'll buy a fork with eyelets)


Guess I have to go this option ? Or install some kind of "bracket" and go standard long blades ?
http://www.sks-germany.com/?l=fr&a=prod ... 20XL%20SET

Louis :)

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 4:16 pm 

Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 6:40 pm
Posts: 201
Look at Planet X SpeedEZ fenders. For a cyclocross bike the Speed EZ hybrids usually work well. They require no eyelets and provide full coverage.

I use them on my older Bianchi CX bike. I did fashion a longer mudflap on the front tire to further help deflect water from hitting my shoes but they are generally great fenders. Installed properly, I've never had them move on me or cause problems while riding.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 5:18 pm 

Joined: Wed Jun 27, 2012 12:22 am
Posts: 37
These should work fine as they have brackets for non eyeletted bikes. Almost guaranty they will be fine with 25mm tires as long as you have enough tire/frame clearance. I haven't used them but they do look awful nice.

http://www.ridepdw.com/goods/fenders/fu ... s%E2%84%A2

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:48 pm 

Joined: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:17 pm
Posts: 115
Location: near Seattle
Full Windsor QuickFix rear fender works well enough for me. It has coverage on both sides of the seat stay. Mounting it, or dismounting it, takes seconds.

Saura mon coeur que mon cul poise.

adapted from Rabelais

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:54 pm 

Joined: Tue Feb 12, 2013 7:27 pm
Posts: 15
Couldn't be happier with the fenders on my Scapin winter-ride!

I'm using Curana c-lite. They are made from a sandwich sheet (two layers of aluminum combined with some polyprop type of plastic in the middle) they hold up more than well. They tend to rattle a bit, but that's easy to fix.

I would stay away from the crud roadracers, they are an improper fit. Friend of mine is using them on his CAAD10. Unable to run anothing taller than a 23mm tire, and even then they are rubbing like crazy. With some wind (4bft+) they get pushed against the tires. Not my thing..

Those raceblade XL's you pointed out; i would use something that covers a larger part of your wheel, in respect to the drivetrain. (mine are all the way through, to the bracket) this helps keeping the drivetrain cleaner.

Last edited by serum on Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 7:53 pm 

Joined: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:26 am
Posts: 414
Location: California's country side
SKS long blades for my commuter, the full fenders means your shoes, chainring, don't get wet if it is not raining.
I don't have eyelets for the frame too, just some creativity by bolting it to the rack.

They catch wind very noticable if you try to go higher than 25 mph.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 8:25 pm 

Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:40 pm
Posts: 863
Location: Eire
There's always the option of a seapost clip on. That's what I use and it keeps the critcal area dry - ass and back. I just hate the look of regular guards though I admit they are a lot more effective.

Not everything that counts can be counted. Not everything that can be counted counts.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 4:48 am 

Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 4:33 am
Posts: 965
SKS makes raceblades in a fat version that easily covers a 27 mm tire. They tend to vibrate and shift a bit more, so if you have any size tire at all, you want the fat raceblades just so you aren't always getting chafing or rubbing on any tire regardless of size. Raceblades are good for easy-on easy-off convenience. They rub marks on your frame where they clamp on unless you use a strip of clear 3M hood film to wrap the frame under where you mount the fenders. This stuff works well: http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Universal-G ... B003EP52BU

Raceblades take care of about 80% of the water, but after 40 kilometers you'll still get wet (and even more, dirty) from the ride. If you use full fenders with long flaps, you'll only get wet from passing trucks or from stuff falling from the sky. If you don't have fittings on the bike you can substitute with creative use of vinyl-covered stainless P-clamps. The first installation is a pain and can take an hour or two, but thereafter you can install or remove them in 10 minutes so you can remove them for the summer and not feel bad about it.

The ideal solution as pointed out above is to have a rain bike. Equip it for durability -- Ultegra instead of Dura Ace cassettes and chains, cables that are more water resistant, a larger saddle bag with more parts and tools, wider rims, bigger tires, etc. You'll be happy and won't have to feel so guilty if you don't clean it up every night.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 2:45 pm 

Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:05 am
Posts: 96
I use SpeedEZ Road from Planet Bike, like dvincere earlier. I just clip the guards on when it's wet, which isn't very often here, but they do work well and are quick and easy to fit on a frame with no eyelets. Just be sure to wipe any grit off the rubber mounts before clamping them on, otherwise the frame will be scratched. Beat my annoying seat post clip-on hands down.


PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:05 pm 

Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2011 5:13 am
Posts: 93
I had a frame from the late 60s that had bolt on everything: water bottle mounts, brake bosses, dt shifter mounts, and fender eyelets on the seat stay. I wish I kept them. Maybe you can find some at a bike coop or used bike part place.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 9:19 pm 

Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:56 pm
Posts: 270
sks raceblade fenders make a huger difference in wet weather riding comfort, and are super easy to put on and take off. mine hang in the garage until needed, then go in in 2 minutes.

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