I admit. I did not use any Ti prep anti-seize paste in the BB shell. I tried grease only, Teflon tape only, and grease + teflon tape. Gave up after that. I just don't believe in using any thread locking or pseudo-thread locking paste in a bottom bracket. My feelings are that if you have to resort to that then something else isn't right.
I want to clarify my experiences about the Praxis converter BB. I didn't have a good experience with the BB, but that doesn't mean I don't think it's a well-made product. In fact, I think it is very well made. And it is, at least, worth a try if you've tried everything else to get your creaky BB to be quiet. I, personally, don't think it does anything significant to get rid of the creaky BB noise.
My theory on these creaky BB30 and PF30 Bottom brackets is that the frame's BB shell has to be super duper round and within really, really high tolerances of being perfectly round so that creaks don't occur. I might have an incorrect theory on this, but I think that the BB shell of more metal frames (steel, alu, ti) are more susceptible to creaks than that of carbon. When a frame is welded or brazed there is considerable heat that goes into the BB shell. That heat warps and makes the BB shell not-so-round. Maybe to the eye the shell looks round, but it really isn't. On BSA cartridge bottom brackets, the shell is screwed into the shell. There is a continuous tight fit, and roundness tolerances don't need to be as high. However, on BB30 and PF30 frames, the bottom bracket isn't screwed into the BB shell. It is pressed in. So, any out-of-round BB shell is going to have a higher chance of creaking.
PS - I also have a Moots. When I read one of the earlier replies about someone with a creaky BB Moots annoying people on group rides, I swear that person was talking about me.
. LOL! And don't get me wrong on this. I love my Moots. It rides great! I just wish I went against the current trend for BB30 and PF30 BB shells.