Sram Red Rear deralleur Problem

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Wantax
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 3:28 pm

by Wantax

Hi Guys, I'm looking for a bit of help setting up my Sram Red Rear deralleur.

The Screw Limits seems to be fine (did the adjust acording with the sram manuals), b-limit screw also (setting up for get a 6mm distance), the longitude of the chain is also correct (acording with sram manuals), Im running it with a sram red 11-26 cassete with 2000 miles

The problem is if I adjust it with the chain in the big ring for a perfect out of noise in all the cogs setting, as soon as i put the chain in the small cog it seems to be fine in the cogs between 11 to 19, but when I try to put 21-23-26 it makes noise and have a hard time going up between cogs,, so puting more tension in the wire it fix the problem, but ... when i Put the chain back in the Big Ring now i have noises with most of the cogs.


Long History Short, adjusting the wire tension for dont have noises in the small ring makes the chain sound when I use the big ring and viceversa... teoricly if you setup it in the small or big ring, should keep the settings in both rings.

Any ideas?

Thank u in advance

motorthings
Posts: 344
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:56 pm

by motorthings

i had a similar situation, and replacing the cable and housing fixed it...there was just enough drag in the housing that it wouldn't work through the entire range. cable tension adjustments moved the problem, but new cable and housing fixed it.

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yourdaguy
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by yourdaguy

Check for bent derailleur hanger. If you don't have the tool have a dealer do it.
For certain parts stiffer is more important than lighter.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Yes bent derailleur hanger is a possibility and check for worn jockey wheels.

Also for any situation like this if your chain is worn you are wasting your time trying to eliminate mysterious drive train noises.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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tommasini
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by tommasini

A primary reason there have been suggestions regarding the hanger is because of what happens to the cage position/orientation when in small vs large chainring.....that rotational/position change impacts the pulley positioning and therefore can result in a magnification of problems when the hanger is out of alignment.

Wantax
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 3:28 pm

by Wantax

Ty guys for the help im receiving the deralleur hanger tool tomorrow will check if the alingnement is correct

Regards

Wantax
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 3:28 pm

by Wantax

Ok Guys, checked the deralleur hanger with the tool and was a bit bend,

Now is working better that before but is still not perfect.All the Wires are new (alligator i-link)

Could be a problem of the last segment of wire between frame and deralleir that is a big long-short? have u got any formula or tip for know the exactly meausre of this segmet?

Thank u again guys for the help

NWSAlpine
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Joined: Fri May 18, 2012 7:11 pm
Location: FL

by NWSAlpine

From my setups the red rear dr likes a larger rear loop than most.

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Mr.Gib
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by Mr.Gib

Just thought of something - what chain are you using? I have found the quietest set up on a SRAM Red cassette is with a SRAM 1091R chain.
wheelsONfire wrote: When we ride disc brakes the whole deal of braking is just like a leaving a fart. It happens and then it's over. Nothing planned and nothing to get nervous for.

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Werdna
Posts: 91
Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 3:45 am

by Werdna

What frame are you riding and does it feature internally routed cables?
If you have accidentally crossed the cables then it will definitely cause this problem.
(Common problem on the Specialized Venge, SL4 Tarmac, and Roubaix frames I have built up)

lwrncc
Posts: 61
Joined: Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:47 pm

by lwrncc

Hi, I believe your problem is the Alligator I-Link cables. I too tried the cables on Sram Force and the rear D does not shift as well as with normal cables. It's not as bad as yours but I can tell it's clearly not as crisp I believe it is due to the inner liner of the I-Links being a tad compress-able (spongy). Btw I'm using the 4mm shifter specific I-Links.

This problem is only visible in the rear D due to the short indexing. I recommend you switch back to normal cables for the rear and see how it works out.

I have not switched mine out yet as it is tolerable. But I will definitely use normal cables next time.
"It doesn't get easier, you just go faster"

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motorthings
Posts: 344
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2008 9:56 pm

by motorthings

even if the cable is new, if the housing is not new, or the rear loop is too tight (as someone else mentioned), it could def. cause this issue.

tinozee
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Joined: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:53 am

by tinozee

Great info here. I can remember going through these issues years ago and figuring it out by buying all new parts one by one within a few days. swapping them out I could see the effect each change made. Needles to say you start to appreciate keeping an eye on chain wear, der hanger alignment, cable routing... once you realize you can fix it and what to look for it's way less of a pain. The red rear der is great. Good luck!

brettmess24
Posts: 36
Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:00 pm

by brettmess24

As mentioned these red rear derailluers are sensitive to the cable housing loop and actuall brand of cable. I use the Yokozuna cables and they work great on SRAM red.

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Wantax
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Feb 02, 2013 3:28 pm

by Wantax

Ok Guys ty for your help, I think is fixed finally.

Just for clarify , I was using a new KMC SL 10v Chain + Sram Red 11-26 (2010 Cassete), the frame is a Fm066SL with internals wires and Ilink Alligator.

As Lwrncc suggested i replaced the last I-link segment (between frame and rear derailleur) with a segment using the original sram red wires (i think are gore-on) also a bit shorter (like 1cm less) and now is working perfectly, i think the problem was that the ilink is not stiff-rigid enought

Many thanks for the help guys, you rock!

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