I have an opportunity to pick up a non-di2 Scott foil frame for a deal price. My intentions are to move over my UDi2 group. I have drilled frames before, and I am a mech eng with a composites background so generally competent with tools and carbon parts. What I would like to know firstly is if anyone has done this before and has advice, and two, if the di2 model frames are reinforced at the drill holes or in any way different to the non di2 frames which would suggest that doing this would be a bad idea.

If anyone has any comments - I plan to use 0.5 mm pilot hole and then drill this out to the shimano di2 hole size in the front shift di2 wire location. I plan to run the battery internally.

Thank you!

I don't think they're reinforced at all. I've owned a 20 and Premium.
This has been done before but with dura ace not ultegra.




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2012 Scott Foil Premium

I don't think you will have to. The cable entry ports are very large and I think just supplied with different plugs for mechanical or electronic. I could be wrong, if anyone has an electronic one they can chime in.

I think the issue is the mechanical frame has a single front derailer cable hole. The di2 frame has two wire holes - battery & derailer - that are drilled in specific locations. I know where these points are from photos / inspection. Last time I saw the frames in person they were drilled one way or the other. Ie cannot go mechanical on an electric frame. Perhaps this has changed (or I am mistaken in the first place!)

Just looked at some pics. The foil has an access port for the battery cable on the down tube near the BB and looks like an integrated mount for the battery under the bottle cage.
On the mechanical foil frame there is a large access port under the BB that the cable guide plugs into. It would be very easy to snake the battery cable and run it up under the bottle cage if using the bottle cage mount for the battery. Not as clean as the electronic version of the frame but only would require modifying the cable guide, not drilling the frame. If you mounted battery on non drive side chainstay, even easier as far as wire routing. Similarly the FD wire is easy to do, just drilling plastic cable guide.
Personally though I would go for hidden battery in this case.
The only place I think you may have to actually drill the frame is at the rear dropout for the RD wire, but not 100% sure and am at work.