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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 2:29 pm 
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Cheers @monchito!

Agreed developing the correct program would be the hard part, no reason why I can't make a model of it on a CAD program, it's then finding the equipment that can produce the result as the machine I have been using is a manual one with electronic axis measurements. To hard to re create by hand. It's Definately a computer job... I'll investigate

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Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2012 2:29 pm 


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 5:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2012 1:13 am
Posts: 19
Awesome thread! Youve got great skills! I love reading up on Tuned parts.

As for the 'herolites', Id be interested in a build thread on those. I tried them once, but settled on M2 Racer. Not sure if anything is 'Tunable' with those as their very minimal to begin with...


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 17, 2012 6:53 am 
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JLFast thanks, the great thing about how I build the herolites is that they can go on existing axles. So if you have a pedal with titanium axles already there is no reason why I can't just build the body for that spindle... If anyone is interested and competent with a pair of verniers I can build the bushings and supply a new bearring for you. Flick us a message And I'll see what we can do.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 1:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:19 pm
Posts: 268
Location: Denmark
Great work! I purchased som other playspeed pedals and I'm having an issue with engage and disengaging. First when ever I clip in, it doesn't feel like I'm fully clipped in, I don't hear that loud crispy sound of clipping in. The first and only test have been in a home trainer and a couple of times I clipped out without wanting to, so I tried pulling straigt up from the pedal which also resulted in disengaging. This only happened with the left pedal. I have been riding other pedals of the original brand for about 4 years. I'm using the the old cleats which are not very old maximum 1000 km on them.

I'm no expert in how these are built so I need som advice if anyone can what might be the problem. I looked at the difference between the right and the left and the only thing I could see was that the small metal insert between the ti plates was sticking a bit out, it is the same on both sides.

But as I understand this metal piece between the plates cannot be moved then it's not the seller that made a mistake.
Again I don't know if this is the reason to problem

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
Posts: 1955
Location: NoVA/DC
check to make sure your cleat is mounted flat. A shoe curve that doesnt match the cleat plate curve will bend the cleat, it won't sit flush with the top of the pedal, bad things happen. Sometimes the provided "extra shim" needs to be added to the rear inner mounting screw.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 2:53 pm 
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Location: Denmark
thisisatest wrote:
check to make sure your cleat is mounted flat. A shoe curve that doesnt match the cleat plate curve will bend the cleat, it won't sit flush with the top of the pedal, bad things happen. Sometimes the provided "extra shim" needs to be added to the rear inner mounting screw.


I think you are right there is a small gap between the shim and the shoe, I will give it a shot


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 5:52 pm 
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Location: Denmark
The problem got fixed, there was zero issues with the pedals. I tried all possible combinations with the different shims and couldn't make it work, I changed the cleat to a brand new one and made the gap between the shoe and the cleat a little smaller.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 5:35 am 
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Great Job!!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 1:36 pm 
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weeracerweenie wrote:
I then lathed up some end caps out of delrin and called the mission complete :beerchug:

The pedals started at 208 grams for a standard straight of the shelf pair. My pair ended up at 118 grams a pair. 90 GRAMS GONE! WOW, i am working on a concept for prototype 2that will drop them under 100 grams a pair, so stay tuned. I also build Aerolite Pedals that are tweaked to my preference, and altered slightly as well if anyone is interested.

Final Pedals DONE :beerchug:

Image

Image

Im about to put them in a box and send them back to Dereksmalls for him to own, along woith some other wee bits i have built him! What do you all think?

I want a box of the pedals :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:36 pm 
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Amazing work weeracerweenie! :thumbup: would love to have some!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:15 pm 
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hello there!! I´m trying to reduce the weight of my zero playspeed pedals. I already installed a ti spindles. Now I want to replace the steel bolt by titanium bolts, but i don't know the specs of these bolts. I need to know these specs so I can order them at a pro bolt shop (the famous one based in toronto).

I need to know the specs of the bolts that hold the butterflies in places (2 per pedal, 4 total), and the bolt that holds the spindle with the pedal body (1 per pedal, 2 total). Then i can order these 6 bolts, which will be quite cheap, and save a little few grams.

thanks a lot.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 9:11 pm 
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Location: New Zealand
The bolts that hold the bowties on are sold on their website as four bolts halfway down the page http://www.torontocycles.com/Selling/Pedals_Accessories.html not sure about the end bolts. Take one off and measure it and there you go. We didn't replace those bolts when we built these

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 6:33 am 
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So after some small issues with the clipping in and out of the tuned pedals i built detailed in this thread, i took a revised look at my design and did a whole new concept.

I took the old bow ties and flipped them (inverted them) the theory behind this was because on the mills i have access to, 1) they arent electronically controlled, only manual. and 2) the curve of the bow ties is god damn impossible to perfect. AANNDD because i think i have micro OCD that wont do... plus to make one of the parts took me 2 hours. Screw that.

So i decided to use the old bow ties to make the cleat interface. this way the curve to the bowtie is identical and the cleat can engage un interupted. In the following photos i have detailled the proccess...

For a start i used a grinding wheel to cut out the section where the sticky outy bit in the cleat will engage and disengage from. I have shown in blue where the cut out will be.

Image

Now the cut out vs standard version

Image

Next the old bowtie is cut in half, so it can sit under the Ti bowties that is in the normal position. Also so it can sit in the slot that the Ti bowties sit recessed into. This is mainly cosmetical buit also functional as the now cut bowtie cannot twist out of position when the cleat is disengaged (which was a version 1 prototype failure)

Image

This picture shows you where the cut bowtie sits on the old one, and how slotting the end for the cleat sticky outy bit will sit in there.

Image

Next a small carbon spacer is cut (4.5mm) to seperate the two sides of the pedals, at the same time the existing threads in the cut bowties are removed if you want to, (i didnt) Note, this carbon tube is to big (diametre) but its the smallest i had in the bike spares shelf. I will fix this later in the week.

Image

And finally we rebuild the pedal, its a bit fiddly but not to hard, tighten the torx bolts and mount them back up. Here is a picture of the pedal fitted to my Old Single Speed (sorry about the mud :wink: ) and my old road shoes engaged into the pedal.

Image

Image

Early riding (down the street and back) has seen a massive improvement in engagement and disengagement, it feels snappier and more like the orignals. i plan a decent proper ride this week but with work (It was easier to train when i was at school) its proving un likely. Test review to come. Ill also weigh them too, hopefully <110 grams a pair!

Anyone got some questions or comments or design improvements for me? Im always open to being helped!

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 13, 2013 4:19 am 
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Looking forward to testing them :D

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:10 am 
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testing starts tomorrow hopefully! :beerchug:

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Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:10 am 


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