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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:19 am 
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Hi

I sanded my FSA SL-K Light crankset to remove the logo and graphics and gave it some clear coat. The result came out nice but I actually don't like the glossy look. So I want to sand it down again and keep the matte raw carbon look. However, I think the carbon should be treated with someone to protect it from sunlight, water etc.

Will a matte clear coat do it otherwise I've heard someone just using auto wax to give it a protective layer? Whats the best process?

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Posted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:19 am 


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:31 am 
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Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
303 Aerospace... that's the way to go. Spray on a cloth, and wipe it over a couple of times during the season. Keeps the nude carbon nice and matte.

Make a search here on WW, and several threads will come up.

Looks like this...

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:51 am 
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Juggler wrote:
303 Aerospace... that's the way to go. Spray on a cloth, and wipe it over a couple of times during the season. Keeps the nude carbon nice and matte.

Make a search here on WW, and several threads will come up.

Looks like this...

Image

Thanks! I think I just made a post in your DIY thread on FK :) But thanks for the reply here... I will need to order some 303 Aerospace. Thanks.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:39 pm 
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I believe that someone on the forum asked easton what to do when the clearcote was removed from a handlebar because of a scratch. They replied that carbon is UV resistant these days. I then removed my logo of the Easton handlebar. Didn't seem to affect the strenght until this day.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:47 pm 
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So... What Easton is saying is, that you don't need to protect the carbon when you sand it down to raw carbon?

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:55 pm 
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You will get a more even finish if you apply some matte clear coat. I just sanded this Specialized Roval hub down the other night. The clear coat was shiny and very thick with decals underneath. I didn't go down to the nude carbon on the whole surface and it's not needed when you apply clear coat on top of it. I started with corn 80, then 180 and finished with 320 and applied one layer of acrylic matte clear coat. The flanges are not done yet.

Before
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After
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:06 pm 
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Looks good, but how do you know if it needs any finishing clearcoat. I'm not talking looks here.
And how do you know when to stop and do go all the way to the carbon fiber.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:41 pm 
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Elrey wrote:
Looks good, but how do you know if it needs any finishing clearcoat. I'm not talking looks here.
And how do you know when to stop and do go all the way to the carbon fiber.


It doesn't need the clear coat but it's very hard to get all clear coat off especially close to the aluminium flanges. So yes it was applied due to the look, it would look very bad without. You can see when you break through the clear coat, you get some black dust :-) Most important is to get the surface smooth before applying the clear coat, removing scratches by finishing with in my experience minimum corn 320.

I removed all clear coat on my Selle Italia C64 saddle and left it raw, but this turned out better as the surface was more even and therefore easier to get smooth all over.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 9:48 pm 
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So that's with out clear lacquer?
Okay. So you apply the clearcoat mat or shiny mostly because of looks. Got ya!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:00 pm 
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Yes the saddle is, but as there is resin in the carbon you can polish the "raw" carbon to some extend. Actually the saddle was polished with Autosol as I had that (i know it is meant for metal). For sure the finish might get even better with a layer of clear coat, but as I use the saddle on my mountainbike, I keep it raw, as it will stay looking good no matter how much mud it gets.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:11 pm 
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Very informativ! Thank you. Sorry for highjacking the thread, TS.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:47 pm 
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I sanded a SRAM red crank, zipp handlebars and an Easton ec90seatpost about 4 yrs ago and they have been nude since with no coating. I also live in the rust belt so they get a lot of road salt in the winter months. They have shown no signs problems from lack of clear coat or uv protectant.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:50 pm 
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Would you care to take some pictures up close of your parts? Not privat parts, just the bike parts. <-- sorry, i'm tired :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:38 am 
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Hi,

Quote:
Most important is to get the surface smooth before applying the clear coat, removing scratches by finishing with in my experience minimum corn 320.


320 grit may remove scratches on raw carbon, it will definitely scratch any clearcoat though. Even 600 grit will.
A 1200 grit paper or higher (if you can find it) would be more effective on clearcoat.

Not correcting anyone just adding info here.

Another caveat is that some manufacturers use epoxy to conceal the areas where carbon fibre cloth overlaps/meets or to just even out dips in the surface.
That can be a nuisance, especially so if the epoxy was not mixed with black pigment leaving the epoxy exposed.

Ciao, ;)

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:27 pm 
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viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65095&p=583124&hilit=SRAM+red#p583124" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Here is an old pic of the cranks. Be sure to wet sand to keep dust down.
There were a few small spots that they must have had bubbles or voids in the lay up that had a tan color filler. I just took a black sharpe marker.
A few times a year I do wipe down the whole bike (carbon stuff) with pledge furniture polish.
The seatpost and handlebars took minutes to do. The cranks took a few hours.
I will take some newer pics and post later.

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Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:27 pm 


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