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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 8:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 9:16 pm
Posts: 56
I built my bike up about 7 months ago, has 1600 miles so far. starting to hear some sounds, I'm not sure if its the shimano slx bb or the stants 3.30 freehub body. may be even the bearings in my pedals, I can't figure it out. anyway the question is how long does a slx bb and stans 3.30 usually last? should I take out the freehub body and clean the pawls? can this prevent problems? do people clean the pawls before theres an issue and how often?

thanks.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:20 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
How long all depends on the conditions you ride in. Shimano BB's are very senisitve to the preload you put on the the bearings.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:28 pm
Posts: 1186
I would call the hub- maybe bearings, not even freehub body.
Stan's hubs do not stand up well to washing and weather.
I have had Shimano BBs last the life of a frame.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 10:51 pm 
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Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
External BB's don't last as long as internal's, they are also critical on the frame facing being square, did you get it faced?

I have heard of them lasting as little as 250 miles on an out of true BB shell and 3000+ on a good shell and run with the right preload and in not too gritty conditions.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:16 pm
Posts: 205
Location: Utah, USA
I bet it's the BB. Tear it down and see how the bearings feel. Put some lube on your freehub while you're at it.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 3:55 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 27, 2008 5:10 am
Posts: 7
Location: USA
It is most likely the BB. Remove the chain. Does the crank spin smooth? Can you feel any play? Most BB noise comes from BB/frame threads. Remove BB. Clean threads. Wrap threads with teflon tape and re-install. Make sure chain is clean and lubed. The free hub is very easy to remove. Remove the cassette Using 2-5mm allens loosen the axles end cap. Slowly remove the freehub being careful not to dislodge the pawls. Clean and relube with a light grease. Re-install using a screwdriver to seat the pawls. Tighten end cap.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 4:12 pm 
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Posts: 158
Make sure you cover the basics before you start replacing parts. Remove, regrease and reinstall pedals. Clean, lube and adjust your wheel QR's. Grease or add carbon paste to seatpost and saddle rails (even if your certain they couldn't be the issue.)


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 9:38 pm 
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Posts: 22
Location: Santa Monica, ca
I second checking the seat and post as I once experienced what I thought was the cranks ended up being my seat post. That's an easy fix if you are lucky.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:07 am 
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Posts: 1582
Location: Center of the Universe
xjbaylor wrote:
Make sure you cover the basics before you start replacing parts. Remove, regrease and reinstall pedals. Clean, lube and adjust your wheel QR's. Grease or add carbon paste to seatpost and saddle rails (even if your certain they couldn't be the issue.)



I bet this will be the fix! First thing I always check

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 5:32 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 29, 2008 5:49 am
Posts: 265
I also vote BB. NoTubes had some initial issues, with the first three batches of ZTR hubs...all from three different Asian vendors. Since 2011 - they finally found a reliable source to produce the current 3.30 hubs used today.

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:00 am 
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Location: Midlands, United Kingdom
Holy thread resurrection batman!

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