'09 Scott Addict R1 ... now sub 5.7kg @ 12.67lbs

[KWalker]

How did your mechanic have trouble getting the Alligator cables into the lever? Its the easiest part of the install. Did he make the rear brake loop too long? That can hamper lever return. I had plenty of trouble with the shift cables, but the brakes were a snap.

[Johnny Rad]

I'm referring to components as named in the following link: http://www.alligatorcables.com/CABLE/i-LINK-Content.pdf

The mechanic said the Alligator I-Link brake cable "lever connector" that slotted into my SRAM Red shifter was too long. That's what he said, I think.

I see you've got SRAM on your Guru, so maybe something's different?!

[mdeth1313]

Now I have to find ~10g to get the Assault set-up to be sub-13lbs. Anyone have any good ideas?! [New wheels and brakes are out of the question for now...]
.

Did you get rid of the stock bolt holding the cable guide on under the bottom bracket? I used an alu water bottle cage bolt- a nylon bolt would probably work as well and I think it dropped 3g on mine-- not all of the weight, but costs almost nothing. Just make sure bolts are the same length!

[Frankie - B]

Funny you mention it. as my bike, and lots of others don't use the lever connectors at all. I have just inserted the string of beads into the lever. On my brakes I have used one of these frame stoppers or v-pipe head connectors. There was almost no need for these silly long items.

[Johnny Rad]

@ mdeth1313 - Yup, I swapped out the BB cable guide bolt for a lighter one, saving ~1g. I gave you credit for the idea on the previous page!

> > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

However my mechanic made the I-link brake cable to shifter interface work (I think he rigged in some other cable components from who knows what or where), it's golden. I put in another short ride and have gotten more used to them. I also opened up my brakes to give me more brake / shifter squeeze before they begin to engage. I've never cared for that "instant on" sensation; I prefer a bit of squeeze before the pads hit the rims.

> > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

I'm still looking for an elusive ~10g. Ideas?!

[KWalker]

I have the connectors and you have to insert them in at just the right angle to get them to work. I'd like to remove them when I have more time, but I don't want to have to fully re-do my cabling to do it. Maybe in a few weeks here.

[Johnny Rad]

I swapped out my trusty Swisstop Yellows (31/g set of 4 pads) for Reynold's new BLUE pads today (25g/set of 4 pads) and netted a tidy little 6g savings.

Very chilly (~34F) ride report (comparing Swisstop Yellows to Reynolds BLUE on my Reynolds Assault clinchers): Overall, a lukewarm thumbs-up and I'm happily keeping them on my bike. First, there's no annoying squeal! Bravo to Reynolds. Second, the initial stopping power and modulation is every bit as good as Swisstop Yellows and maybe better. Inspires confidence. However, I can't lock-up the rear brake at will now, which I believe is a sign the BLUE pads don't have the same terminal braking performance. I can lock it up on the flats, but not when coming to a stop on a descent. Maybe they'll perform better when it warms up outside? Finally, they're NOT going to last a full season, which could be reflected in the rock bottom pricing. I get 1.5-2 seasons out of my Swisstop Yellows, but am afraid the BLUE pads won't last based on all the pad dust all over the pads and brakes after only a very modest ride today.

Worth mentioning is that the BLUE pads are worlds better than the Zipp Tangente pads.

I'm sitting at 5.8-5.9kg depending on wheels now.

[Johnny Rad]

I also did a little painting today. It's NOT a poor man's "SRAM Red Limited Tour Edition." It's definitely a "custom" paint job. So much nicer sounding.

Difficulty? So easy you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner
Durability? To be determined

Supplies needed: paint (yellow Testors in my case; not matte), clear nail polish, fine tipped paint brush, tape and exacto knife

1) Tape off area to be painted
2) Paint 2-3 coats allowing time to dry between
3) Remove tape while paint is half-way between wet and dry
4) Allow paint to completely dry
5) Re-tape off area to be clear coated
6) Apply 2-3 coats of clear nail polish ... be VERY quick on the first coat or you might smudge your "custom" paint job
7) Remove tape
Enjoy!

My paint work was very nice, but I smudged it a hair when applying the first coat of nail polish. Either the nail polish thins out the paint and/or the paint wasn't dry enough. I was bummed out, but it still looks OK. That's why I'm not posting close-ups!

*** Many thanks to benolium for sharing his simple "how to" paint SRAM Red with me via PM. Also, many thanks for the inspiration from the other WW members that have already done the same "custom" painting.

[benolium]

Nice job on the paint,

Your bike looks fantastic!

[Kevin3182]

I think i like your "Limited tour edition" better than srams version!
good inspiration for some future builds! and congrats on the sub 13

[Johnny Rad]

With all the sub 4 and 5kg Scott madness going on right now, I figured it was time to jump in with my "heavy duty" version at only 5.68kg.

After much thinking and saving (plus a sale on Fairwheel's part), I finally pulled the trigger on a set of EE brakes. Loaded with a new set of Reynolds blue pads, I saved a tidy 80g over my outgoing SRAM Red set.





Seemed to me a perfect time to re-cable the bike, too. I went with Alligator Mini iLinks for shifting and AICAN Bungarus for brakes and saved ~20g, which is the lightest combo of these two according to the Fairwheel site. I also added a new-style SRAM Red FD with its extra 11g to try and eke out a bit better shifting up front.

All in all, my little Addict is now sitting "as ridden" (pedals, computer, cages, no seat bag or lights) at 5.684kg (12.53lbs) with Reynolds Attacks and 5.771kg (12.72lbs) with Reynolds Assaults.

Is winter over, yet? I'm ready for the roads to clear and start pedaling. Pics and ride report to follow.

[carcraze]

Hi John,

I noticed that you've changed the seatpost/saddle clamp from the Ritchey 25mm offset to a 8mm offset. I'm looking for that actually. What brand clamps are you using? What is the seatpost diameter at the top? 30.25mm or 34.9mm?

I have a '09 Addict R1 too.

Thanks.

[Johnny Rad]

It's a MCFK zero offset (34.9 I think) and it's been working great for me for ~3 seasons. There's also an offset model now. Contact Martin at MCFK or Fairwheel Bikes for sizing and ordering details: http://www.mcfk.de

I often daydream about buying his saddle, but my Selle San Marco Superleggera fits my butt like a proverbial glove ... in the "end," I don't want to ruin a good thing.

And his road bar is only 31.8, so I'm holding out for the smaller diameter 26.0 size.

[benolium]

Looking good!! Is it just me or is your addict getting lighter?

[Johnny Rad]

EE brakes w/Aicans are great! And Reynolds blue pads. They're powerful and easy to modulate. Great upgrade over my prev-gen Red brakes w/iLinks and blues.

Sram Red FD w/yaw and Mini iLinks are also great. It's probably one part new cables, one part dialed in adjustment and one part new stuff making for much-improved front shifting.

I couldn't be happier ... that is until I visit the "Introduce Yourself" threads with all the new goodies being shown off.

Pics at: http://www.vintagemotorslyons.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; in Lyons, Colorado.

Ride strong, weenies!