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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Posts: 667
Location: Winnipeg Canada
Well.... I think I won the battle.... and here is the solution:

First it helps Im a pilot for an airline and our maintenance team has a lathe... soooo gave them my 104mm spindle with simple instructions.. cut that shoulder off!!
Came back from teaching a groundschool and was given my spindle with no shoulder...
Call local bike shop and pick up a set of SRAM 2.5mm BB30 spacers

Cannondale KP197 bearing kit installed, BUT on the DS I used the SRAM PF30 bearing shield that originally came with the EVO.. it sits slightly taller than the Cannondale shield so took up a little more required space... next install one 2.5mm SRAM spacer, install SRM on and push the whole unit through so its all snug against the bearing shield.. the NDS is a little tight since the spindle has gone through about 1mm more.... so I have the Cannondale KP197 dust shield installed, then a single black spacer Cannondale supplies with the BB30 cranks, then the wavy washer.. NDS crankarm, Tq it down, and I have sufficient clearance, and no drag!

This setup will NOT work with the SRAM PF30 BB system.. you need the Cannondale SRM kit because it has a bevel cut to the lip of the cup.. you need the additional clearance on BOTH sides now since the NDS arm is shifted that little bit more over..


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Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 3:59 am 


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:50 am
Posts: 315
Very nice! So you took the knowledge that the new spindles no longer have the shoulder and use spacers and used it to your advantage. That's great. :beerchug:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:35 am
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Location: Parakai, New Zealand
Nice work :thumbup:


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 5:31 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
Posts: 1551
Location: Houston, Texas
Brilliant. Nice work getting your older (pre-2011) SRM Hollowgram to work on that Cannondale EVO with PF30! So I am guessing the finished modification looks something like what Madcow discussed in this thread a couple years back (note to self, check Harbor Freight for inexpensive lathe for home workshop :lol:):

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 6:05 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Posts: 667
Location: Winnipeg Canada
Yes, that is more or less what I have done...
I am going to be trying another tweak to see if I can get the NDS crank out just a little more.. I have the SRAM 2.5mm spacer in there on top of the SRAM dustshield which is a little thicker than the Cannondale one... Im thinking I can even get the SRM a hair tighter in which would allow me to shift everything left a little... I think if I remove the SRAM washer, go back to the cannondale with a single black washer, and then the 2.5 I can tighten it up a bit...
In any case, its gonna work, but I will still get the new 109mm new spindles when it comes out...


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2012 2:42 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 27, 2009 4:28 pm
Posts: 218
I've searched the forum for answer for this but I can't find it so here Goes. I've been trying to run a cannondale srm on my Parlee Z1 with a hsc pressfit bottom bracket along with a srm spindle. The chain line is slightly off and I am having some shifting issues. It's Been recommended to me that I order and use the cannondale srm specific press fit cups instead of the hsc press fit assembly. My question is, can I poppit the ceramic bearings in the hsc assembly and use them in the cannondale aluminum srm cups? I want to avoid using the crappy stainless bearings that come with the kit if at all possible. Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 23, 2004 8:24 pm
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Location: Houston, Texas
Ufgators wrote:
It's Been recommended to me that I order and use the cannondale srm specific press fit cups instead of the hsc press fit assembly.
I would suggest you consider trying to order a new SISL2 spindle (KP248). Alternately, you could search a local machinist to modify the existing spindle to remove the shoulder off the 104mm as dicussed here.

Ufgators wrote:
My question is, can I pop out the ceramic bearings in the hsc assembly and use them in the cannondale aluminum srm cups?
Since I suffered similar issues with a Ridley last year, I can answer yes, you should be able to as thats what I did but I cant recall what tool I used to press out the bearings (either Park Tool BBT-30.3 or BBT-90.3). Also, my experience with the alloy Cannondale PF-30 bearing cups, once installed/Loctited into the bottom bracket shell, you will find it difficult to remove them without a tool such as the BBT-30.3.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 1:22 am 
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Thanks for the help. I do agree the new si sl2 spindle may be my best bet.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 02, 2012 12:02 pm 
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Posts: 218
thanks for your help! I am anxiously awaiting the release of those spindles


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 12:29 am 
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Location: Winnipeg Canada
Well the 109mm spindles are out... its part KP250.. unfortuneately, the complete kit is still not available... the complete kit is KP248 which includes all the necessary spacers... the new BB really pushes the NDS crank away from the frame with all the spacers that are packed in there... its the EXACT same spacing technique on the driveside I used to make my SRM work.. bearing, a 2mm shield (I used the SRAM dustshield vs the cannondale thin one) a 2.5mm spacer and the crank... the NDS is what gets really pushed away from the frame now as you put a 2mm dustshield, wavy, upto 3 1mm spacers, then the hard unknown thickness spacer, then the NDS crank arm which is compressed down... I saw a new EVO black, and its pushed out ~5mm more to the NDS which would coincidently be the extra 5mm of axle...


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Posts: 667
Location: Winnipeg Canada
For those who were following this thread, the KP248 109mm BB assembly is now available.. I ordered one, and its here, but I can't get it til Monday due to some docmentation missing with the invoice... while I was at it I got some new SiSL2 arms as well.... I will post pics of the SRM install when its done, and also post some pics of my current sheared off shoulder setup for those wanting to go that way.. I'll do this after Christmas as my bike needs a good tear down/rebuild after Maui...

Happy Holidays!


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 6:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:39 am
Posts: 667
Location: Winnipeg Canada
Sorry, no pix.. the camera battery is dead from vacation... but I can verify SiSL2 cranks work perfectly fine with the SRM for anyone who is curious.. I also installed the 109mm KP248 assembly.. I must admit it feels alot more draggy than my assembly did... nothing is contacting.. I guess it needs break in time... it came with the FSA ceramic bearings, red seals.. those bearings always felt very stiff to me...

I still needed to space the SRM on the Driveside as I did with my setup.. Its still necessary to use the KP197 SRM bearing assembly which was conveniently included... the setup on the drive side calls for the dustshield and a 2.5mm spacer, then the crank.. I still needed to add 2 grey spacers in there as well to give the SRM clearance from the BB shell... On the Non driveside I have the dustshield, wavy washer, 2 spacers as well, then the 5mm spacer, then crankarm... the wavy washer is compressed to just before it is not flat..

I have an SRM question I will pose here, and start a new thread in case... I needed to change the crankarm obviously from the Hollowgram SiSL to the new SiSL2... I have the lockring Tqd down per spec... when I do a zero offset now, the previous value was about 431 or so.... now with the new arm installed its 533... is this anything to be concerned about, is my SRM all out of calibration now??

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:16 pm
Posts: 433
I was running an older wired SRM on my SystemSix, using the standard bearing shields with the SRM axle.

This worked fine, although the inner ring adjustment for the front mech was always borderline- the cage of the mech would hit the seat tube before it completed its travel.

I've swapped to a wireless, 110 bcd SRM, which is physically a lot smaller than the older SRM.

I installed it using the SRM bearing shield but the standard axle this time- I was going to use the standard bearing shield, but the back of the SRM case just grazed the BB shell, so I swapped to the different shield.

Now, having just looked at it again whilst the cranks spin beautifully, the rings have moved inward by quite a way- more than the 0.5mm than I expected.

I'm unsure how this is going to affect the front mech- the battery is charging so currently I cannot experiment.

I'll experiment when I have some charge.

I was wondering if anyone else had experience this, and how they set theirs up?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2013 10:01 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:16 pm
Posts: 433
Battery back in action, it all works- just.

Inner ring/largest sprocket is fine, no rub, which is just as well as the front mech cage cannot go any further- the spring is against the seat tube.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:09 am 
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Joined: Sat May 26, 2012 11:26 pm
Posts: 466
How does changing the crank position for the PF30 frames re: displacing to DS, affect chainline and crossover gears?

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Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 8:09 am 


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