I picked up a Hylix carbon seat post off the bay for $70 and after cutting it down to length got it down to 131g. But it has some nasty white/red graphics on it that I will need to sand down. Fortunately, they are on top of all coating so simple sanding should get them off pretty quick.
Some 1200-1500 dry and wet will do the trick fairly quickly and leave a great smooth matt finish without taking off all of the clear coat. Doing it this way means you can blend areas where more clear coat has been removed to get rid of graphics and the rest of the clear coat which you sand to achieve the same effect very easily.
I wish I would have seen this thread before installing my new bars last week as they too have frickn logos all over the flat portion (ITM Pathom 2) and are glossy. I guess that will just have to wait until it is time to redo the bar tape since I hate to waste some brand new Lizard Skin dimpled tape.
Taking off the bar tape, sanding the bars and re-installing the tape (particularly if you are only interested in sanding the exposed areas) should be a relative quick job and most bar tape can be re-installed no problem without damaging it.
Was debating on swapping out my rings (Chorus Compact 10spd) for some TA's or something but it doesn't look like it will be that large of a weight reduction going that route. I don't race and would want some longevity out of whatever rings I get which concerns me with the Fiber Lites. Love to know if anyone else is running those and how they are holding up (as well as that nifty cassette you got!)
The fibre-lytes are pretty rubust from what i have read from others that have used them. Do an image search for the on google and read the reviews. Some quote 3000-5000km if looked after properly which is outstanding for what they are. Or speak to stephen@fibre-lyte for some honest feedback on his rings.
Looks like I'll also be swapping out my der's as well to SR (currently on 10 spd rec) in an effort to shave some weight and eventually move to 11 spd. Runing Centaur V3 levers now and while they have the carbon blades (which thanks to you, I now need to pull and strip
) they are still heavier than the records or SR but since I'm on 10 spd they will have to do for now.
You should be able to box cleaver and upgrade gradually to 11Sp from 10 Sp - like i and many others have experienced - start with the RD and 2012 FD, then chain. Make sure to change the cassette and shifters last and at the same time - that should work fine.
None the less, great work and keep us posted on the rings and cassette.
Ok, I know this has been covered before but I just want to make sure I am on the same page. You basically just used a razor blade to scrape the clear coat off the lever blades? Does it just start to chip away once you get it started? The last thing I want to do is gouge the carbon itself. I guess I am going to try this out on my lever blades before I take a blade to my bars down the road (just the bar tops of course-no sense in scraping what it going to be covered up by tape)
The clear coat on campy levers from what i have found is quite thick and brittle and chips off like a dream. It is quite hard to gouge the carbon, you will notice when you have hit it as the blade will stop as it easily goes through the clear coat. I would start somewhere subtle them progress from there stripping/chipping away by sliding/pushing against the surface of the carbon under the clear coat (think of it as lifting the clear coat off with the tip/edge of the blade). If this fails for any reason use the scraping method which takes longer, holding the blade at 90 degrees to the lever surface and dragging back and forth. You will know when you hit carbon and it is difficult to damage the carbon this way too which is also good to know. Good luck
PS. Sanding the bars with 1200-1500 dry & wet would be better than a blade if the graphics are near the surface and you want to go Matt. It is easier, quicker and blends better.