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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 2:48 am 
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Hi Everyone;

I realize I might start off a bit of a religious debate here, but I was hoping to get some opinions on a winter build project.

I recently picked up a 2002 LeMond Zurich in Reynolds 853 steel and frame and fork that come in at 1770 g. I would like to build a winter ride targeting 17 pounds, so that I can avoid riding my Cervelo R3 in the rain here in Northern California.

We are an all Shimano household, and I have kept to Shimano for my wife and I (and our 7 bikes) to allow wheel/component swapping etc.

A friend is trying to convince me to do a Campy build on the LeMond, as he feels that Campy has been producing WW components for much longer than Shimano, and therefore there are more second hand components available for the build at a cheaper price- e.g. 9 or 10 Chorus or Record. Essentially, it will be easier to meet my weight goal for cheaper using Campy.

I really dislike SRAM, so it is not an option.

Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 4:21 am 
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Location: LA/OC, California
Look for second hand dura ace, it will be cheaper than second hand campagnolo

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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 4:21 am 


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 5:20 am 
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Location: Santa Cruz, California, USA
It's a winter bike. It doesn't matter if it weighs 150g more. Not to mention that you're already starting with a heavy frame. Stick with Shimano so you're compatible with your current equipment. With 7 bikes you probably have some left over Shimano parts that you can use. Or if your good bike needs new parts you can put the old ones on the rain bike.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 11:02 am 
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Location: The Netherlands
I wouldn't call a sub 1800 gram steel frame heavy.

Recently I finished building up my Alan cyclocross / winter bike. I choose to go with a Shimano groupset, mainly because they sell for a lot less than similar SRAM and Campagnolo groupsets. I haven't weighed in the bike yet, but it feels pretty light. To loose some weight I fitted a single front chainring setup, since I don't use the big ring in winter anyway. I also went with a (single) bar end shifter with non-STI brake levers, but I am not sure if that saves weight.

Good luck with the build! Love steel Lemond frames.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 2:51 pm 
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What year/kind/material are the Alan frame and fork. What material is the (fork) steerer?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 4:09 pm 
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Older chorus and record 9 speed parts are a similar weight to new 10 speed Veloce. In fact going buy madows posts regarding groupset weights 2012 veloce is just as light as 6700 ultegra. This is what I use on my winter bike. You should be able to pick up a 2012 groupset for not alot of money. Record and chorus parts are a lot more expenisve to replace and as a winter bike I am sure you would like the individual compoents to be cheap and ubiquitous.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 7:37 pm 
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You are talking crazy stuff.
Older steel frame with ww components- and Campy at that???
1.) You are a Shimano family- stick to that. Get some used or NOS 7800 or 7900- It will be light enough.
2.) Do not go ww in any way for winter. You want tires that don't puncture, and wheels that won't break- nothing worse than dealing with gear mishaps in the rain.
3.) You wear out stuff in the winter- may even consider downgrading parts- steel cassette. You for sure wear through brake tracks.
4.) Fenders will add enough weight that all of htis is insignificant. And you for sure want fenders-

Train the shit out of your winter build and reward yourself with some real ww stuff for the nice weather :)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 1:22 am 
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Thanks for the input chaps, I think i will stick with Shimano, using a mix of DA and Ultegra.

Two more questions:
1) Any recommendations for a non Shimano compact crankset that shifts well with Ultegra derailleurs?
2) I have been happy with a set of training wheels for my Cervelo which are Velocity Arrowheads with White Industry H2/3 hubs. Has anyone got recommendations for a lightweight training wheel that would be suited for a 212 pound fat kid like me? :oops: I live north of San Francisco so every ride has a lot of climbing and descending.

I take the point that training on a heavier winter bike reaps lots of rewards come Springtime, but it is tough keeping up with the pack on a heavier ride, so every little bit helps! :roll:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 2:47 pm 
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Location: The Netherlands
HammerTime2 wrote:
What year/kind/material are the Alan frame and fork. What material is the (fork) steerer?


Not sure what year the frame is. It is the old lugged and screwed aluminum version, but the most modern version if I am correct. The fork is aluminium too, but with a steel (cr-mo?) steerer tube.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 2:54 pm 
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Perhaps Alan switched over to steel steerers at some point? The Alan alu forks used to have alu steerers. It's not fun when an (Alan) alu steerer snaps while JRA - believe me, I know.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 3:13 pm 
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I was actually pretty afraid about the steerer snapping off at first, since I had seen pictures of it. Whilst changing the headset though I was pleasently surpised by the steel steerer tube. It also makes for a much stiffer fork, compared to the older aluminum ones.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 6:54 pm 
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At 212 a lighter wheelset will only invite wheel failures. They will not help you keep up.
That said, call Justin at Luxe Wheelworks. He could make you something cool with your favorite hubs and H + Sons rims. They will be as light as can be for your purposes.
Use any crankset- get a set of Praxis rings. Praxis rings and a new chain will shift like magic.


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Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 6:54 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2012 7:54 pm 
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Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
I have the same worries about the round forks on my Alan. It's an early one and I use it for time trailing.

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