The wheelbuilding thread
Moderator: robbosmans
Forum rules
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
The spirit of this board is to compile and organize wheels and tires related discussions.
If a new wheel tech is released, (say for example, TPU tubes, a brand new tire, or a new rim standard), feel free to start the discussion in the popular "Road". Your topic will eventually be moved here!
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- Posts: 849
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- Location: Australia
bm0p700f, I'm going to politely disagree with you.
The flange spacings of the SLF71 are much wider than the Novatec hubs, isn't wider better?
If DividedVolta is using Campy, the flange spacings on the SL218 are similar.
The flange spacings of the SLF71 are much wider than the Novatec hubs, isn't wider better?
If DividedVolta is using Campy, the flange spacings on the SL218 are similar.
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Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
Disclosure: I'm sponsored by Velocite, but I do give my honest opinion about them (I'm endorsed to race their bikes, not say nice things about them)
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2012 3:37 am
First, thanks for the advice so far! I appreciate it all!
I forgot to mention I use Shimano, and can't really imagine myself getting Campy for the foreseeable future.
Just for my own clarity, when you guys mention two hubs I'm assuming you are listing front hub first/back second? Seems obvious but I just wanted to be sure.
The weight listings you guys threw in are great; really happy to have an idea of what weight I'll be looking at.
I forgot to mention I use Shimano, and can't really imagine myself getting Campy for the foreseeable future.
Just for my own clarity, when you guys mention two hubs I'm assuming you are listing front hub first/back second? Seems obvious but I just wanted to be sure.
The weight listings you guys threw in are great; really happy to have an idea of what weight I'll be looking at.
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"isn't wider better"
it makes for a laterally stiffer wheel. That make the wheel stronger. But the front wheel is already laterally stiffer than the rear because it's not dished to clear the cassette. The wide BHS front hub is nice and does make a wheel that feels a little stiffer but the less stiff wheel from a narrower hub like the BHS UL66, while feeling a little different, does not negatively impact handling.
Of course one could use the BHS wide front and the Novatech rear.. get them in black and they'll almost match.
it makes for a laterally stiffer wheel. That make the wheel stronger. But the front wheel is already laterally stiffer than the rear because it's not dished to clear the cassette. The wide BHS front hub is nice and does make a wheel that feels a little stiffer but the less stiff wheel from a narrower hub like the BHS UL66, while feeling a little different, does not negatively impact handling.
Of course one could use the BHS wide front and the Novatech rear.. get them in black and they'll almost match.
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2012 3:37 am
Are there any reliability issues with the -SL Novatec hubs? Is it really worth saving the ~30g between the front/rear for the extra money? I wouldn't mind throwing out a few more bucks, but if it'll be at a noticeable reliability hit I don't think that's worth it.
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- in the industry
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I was refering to the rear hub flange spacing but assumed that that you all knwew that! IO should have been clearer.
As Eric said front wheels are stiff enough that small differences in flange spacings betwen various hubs make little difference in reality. I think the reliability of these novatec SB series hubs is fine. I would however not choose a hub just because it is 30g lighter for the pair. Choose it for other reason, ease of supply of spares like freehub bodies or other reasons. 30g is not going to be something you notice especially in the hub.
As Eric said front wheels are stiff enough that small differences in flange spacings betwen various hubs make little difference in reality. I think the reliability of these novatec SB series hubs is fine. I would however not choose a hub just because it is 30g lighter for the pair. Choose it for other reason, ease of supply of spares like freehub bodies or other reasons. 30g is not going to be something you notice especially in the hub.
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- Posts: 28
- Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2012 3:37 am
Thanks for the input bm0, in retrospect you're quite right. 30g of weight spread out over two hubs isn't going to be noticeable. I looked over the Novatec hubs and liked what I saw. My final questions (if you can't tell I barely understand what's going on) are: what length spokes do the hub/rims you recommend and are there any particular nipples that work well or I should look for? Or particular shape?
Again, I appreciate all the input. It's been fun looking up all these bits and pieces and I don't think I could've managed it on my own.
Again, I appreciate all the input. It's been fun looking up all these bits and pieces and I don't think I could've managed it on my own.
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- in the industry
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for a 28H rear 2x I think I used 182mm DS and 186mm NDS. For a 24 spoke front 2x use 291mm. For a 28 spoke 2x front I used 289mm. As for spoke for my 79 kg and limited power output I have sapim lasers all round with alloy nipples.
You might notice a bit of flex depending how how much power/torque you can deliver but they should be durable enough.
You might notice a bit of flex depending how how much power/torque you can deliver but they should be durable enough.
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- Posts: 118
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:28 am
- Location: Berkeley, CA
After cracking my rear Farsports rim I've been acquiring parts for a new build for the last couple of months and I thought I would try something a little different this time around. The rims are 38mm deep and 23mm wide. Since we all like pictures here are all the parts that went into the build.
Alloy nipples:
Nipple washers:
16 hole C4 Front hub:
24 hole Bitex rear hub reused from the broken wheel:
32 Mac Aero 424 spokes and 4 CX-rays I had that happened to be the right size:
20 hole rim:
16 hole rim:
The spoke bed on these rims a quite thick:
Alloy nipples:
Nipple washers:
16 hole C4 Front hub:
24 hole Bitex rear hub reused from the broken wheel:
32 Mac Aero 424 spokes and 4 CX-rays I had that happened to be the right size:
20 hole rim:
16 hole rim:
The spoke bed on these rims a quite thick:
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And the finished product. The rims were claimed to be 315g each, but obviously they both came in a bit over weight, the claimed ERD was a bit off as well. None the less the wheel set came out to be 1166g which isn't bad for the small amount that was invested. The front is 16 spokes radially laced and the rear is 20 spokes, 12 DS in sort of a crows foot pattern and 8 NDS 1x. All spokes on the rear are laced heads in to help with the less than brilliant flange spacing of the Bitex hub. NDS tension is pretty good and the rear built up well. I'll be interested to get them out on the road once the wind stops howling and the rain ceased to pour down. They are hanging with their first coat of glue drying now. Forgive the linoleum flooring.
Front wheel:
Rear wheel:
And the set:
Front wheel:
Rear wheel:
And the set:
Intresting lacing pattern
If spokes will be round at the point of crossing? will it work
are spoke calculation for DS 3 xcross and radial?
Thanks for shareing
If spokes will be round at the point of crossing? will it work
are spoke calculation for DS 3 xcross and radial?
Thanks for shareing
Quick Question for the pros:
Do you lace coaster brake hubs as per Shimanos disc brake instructions?? ie drive side outside spokes backwards, disc brake side outside spokes forwards???
I'm about to lace a SRAM Automatix 36H 2 speed IGH with coaster brake in the next few days. Will be doing it 3X to a Mavic A319 700c.
Can't find much info online or does it not matter??
Thanks
Do you lace coaster brake hubs as per Shimanos disc brake instructions?? ie drive side outside spokes backwards, disc brake side outside spokes forwards???
I'm about to lace a SRAM Automatix 36H 2 speed IGH with coaster brake in the next few days. Will be doing it 3X to a Mavic A319 700c.
Can't find much info online or does it not matter??
Thanks
- MajorMantra
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MajorMantra wrote:Can someone with actual experience confirm for me that the SL211 is ok with 11 speed Campagnolo? Something a few pages back made me doubt this.
Quoting myself in the hope of an answer.
By the way, regarding the H Plus Son Archetype rim and Veloplugs, I can confirm that yellow plugs fit if you trim them slightly. If you cut off three of the little ribs on each plug with a sharp knife they're a good snug fit. It's slightly time consuming but not too bad.
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- Posts: 118
- Joined: Tue Jun 07, 2011 4:28 am
- Location: Berkeley, CA
kavitator wrote:Intresting lacing pattern
If spokes will be round at the point of crossing? will it work
are spoke calculation for DS 3 xcross and radial?
Thanks for shareing
If all spokes were round at the crossing point it would be a tight squeeze, one might have to be head out. To determine spoke lengths I built a simple 3d model in sketch up as I had no idea what number would give me the right length in something like spocalc. It appears as though 1.83 gives the correct length of the crossed spokes, at least for this set up. Normal radial calculation for the radial spokes. 1x gives the correct length for the NDS spokes.
Hugo7 wrote:^^ what rims did you use?
Rims are from Yoeleobike.
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