I'm still having post-traumatic stress symptons from this year's 3 peaks, my first

On the bike, I think it looks very very haute

On the level toptube arguement...what is this, 1997? A slight slope ain't going to make that much of a difference.

"...what is this, 1997?"

Are you kidding, what year do you think most cross racers live in - Buying expensive tubs then having to buy extra bloody latex to seal the side walls against rot and mould? Nuff said.

Most sloping top tubes have a 3-4cm slope. This is pretty small in the overall picture. I am putting together a titanium sloping CX rig.

_________________
Fast falcons: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3mTPEuFcWk" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
twitter: Falco_bike
Facebook: falco.bike

my 2 cents:
shouldering is not really affected by a sloped top tube, but getting the bike on your shoulder is. because of the smaller triangle, chances are higher of you smashing your elbow into the seat tube when lifting the bike up and getting your arm through the main triangle of the bike.
of the 2 techniques that are common, i therefor prefer lifting the bike up with my right hand under the top tube, then my arm goes through the frame, in front of the steerer and i hold the left brake lever with the right hand.
the other technique(lift bike up on downtube, arm around downtube and hand holding the left drop of handlebar)is more likely to get you a blue right elbow. i've so far raced several sloping and non sloping cross frames, one of them was the same as the ibis canti cross bike.
what i prefer on these kind of bikes is the fact that the top tube is not so close to me when riding, i feel like the bike is easier to move around, and it's easier for me to move around on the bike.

That's a good point Simon:

- you should always test a CX frame by standing in front of the rig, grabbing the top tube with an under-handed grip 1-5 cms in front of the seat cluster then basically "curling" the frame or bike towards you to see if your elbow hits the down-tube. If it does you either need a larger frame size if you're between 2 (say you could opt for a 56 or a 58) otherwise just buy a Ridley or Cannondale b/c they have horizontal TTs and they're hot frames. Mi lust after the canti Super X (hi mod of course) or the X-Fire/Night.

Has anyone ridden one of these yet? What is the consensus? What is the alternative to this frame/fork set up? I'm very keen, like the look and the brand

I'd say the only other equally awesome choice is the Cannondale Super X.

OMG it's pretty

How does the price for the Super X frameset compare?

Is the IBIS better than the Raleigh RXC Pro Disc?

Re: the removal of the handjob,
They could have used two hands to hold the housings on the rear wishbone and called it the Double Fister.

or they could do nothing and call it the Virgin.

I don't even know if Cannondale sells the Super X as a frameset. I can tell you the Super X RED with BB7 discs costs between 5500 and 6 grand. If you build up a Hakka with the same stuff it will cost roughly the same. The Cannondale has a lifetime warranty, Ibis is 3 years.

Cant compare the two but I like the fact that the Raleigh features a true internal cable run for all the cables although after they finish sealing the sidewalls on their tubulars, the purists will probably scoff at running derailleur cables underneath from inside the downtube!

_________________
Michael - The Anaerobic Threshold is neither...

I know this is more expensive by a decent chunk, but.....

http://reviews.roadbikereview.com/look- ... isc-brakes

I think this looks great....

looks good!