Powertap torque change
Moderator: robbosmans
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- Shop Owner
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- Location: NoVA/DC
If you're definitely not interested in sending it back, you can try to come up with a tool that fits into the left side of the battery compartment, once the batteries are removed. I would assume the threads are left-hand threaded, or the torque would remove it for you.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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I assume that the hub hasn't warranty and the vacuum I think is needed to avoid water so there wouldn't be a problem to repair. Repair a broken wire or a chip problem should be cheap and not very difficult.
The problem is going inside. I think to dismantle I need to unscrew in oppositte direction to pedaling direction. Could be ?
The problem is going inside. I think to dismantle I need to unscrew in oppositte direction to pedaling direction. Could be ?
The Vacuum is to allow it to get proper readings. I had a powertap that had the vacuum seal break and it read all over the place. I was going from 120w to 4000w within one pedal stroke. You don't need a vacuum seal to protect it from rainwater.
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- Posts: 829
- Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:35 am
I don't know how to pull the torque tube out, but I just sent my wheel back for torque tube replacement. It was out of warranty, so it is costing $350 to have a new torque tube installed, but it's basically the G3 system, so that is nice.
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- Posts: 829
- Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2009 2:35 am
500 - that's a lot.
I have not yet received the PT back yet, so I can't really comment on the quality of the replacement. I sent it out about a week ago, and I kind of expect it to take some time to get back to me because of the holidays.
I did consider the cost of the repair and the age of the spokes and rim before deciding to have it fixed instead of buying a new one. And the $350 proved to be a lot cheaper than going new.
I have not yet received the PT back yet, so I can't really comment on the quality of the replacement. I sent it out about a week ago, and I kind of expect it to take some time to get back to me because of the holidays.
I did consider the cost of the repair and the age of the spokes and rim before deciding to have it fixed instead of buying a new one. And the $350 proved to be a lot cheaper than going new.
Not bad, I opened my PT SL+ today. Had to build a special tool, like you. To all who wonder if the torque tube is left- or right-hand threaded - it's left-hand and you need a hammer. However, I didn't find any cable broken, but there was little water inside, what seems to have caused problems with the strain gages and the wrong torque readings. What did you find inside? Repaired?
I have an ANT+ updater for SL2.4, but it already had 2 successful updates. Do you need it (I'm in Germany)?
I have an ANT+ updater for SL2.4, but it already had 2 successful updates. Do you need it (I'm in Germany)?
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- Joined: Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:14 pm
I have a wired 24h PT that is dead and a wired 32h PT hub that works great. I need to get the 24h hub working for my race wheels, but Cycleops and Wheelbuilder no longer repair wired units. So, I would like to move my torque tube from one hub to the other. I see the tool in the above pic, but I am hopeful that one of the posters can share some insight. Thanks!
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