hi,

I was wondering if I am the only person that has some minor problems with the setup of my new Sram Red single pivot brakes. I don't know why but I am not satisfied with the setup. Somehow the brakes won't center the way it should and every time I brake the brakepads are not pushed on the rim at the same moment. Most of the time one brakepad is faster on the rim. After braking the brakepads come back to the original position but one of the brakepads rubs the wheel. I have to turn the brake by hand and center it myself. To avoid this, I leave more space between brakepads and rim, but that leaves me with a lever feel that I don't like. The brake cable lenght is fine but something is not right.
I hope that I you understand what the "problem" is. Can you help me out?

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http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 87f433.jpg

Is the rear nut tight? I don't mean the one that is on the other side of the fork. The one right on the back of the caliper. Typically this one has flat sides on it so you can put a plate wrench on it to center it once you have the brake mounted. I noticed was having the same problem with my record brakes. I loosened up the mounting nut (one going thru the fork) and then noticed that that nut right on the back of the caliper was pretty easy to turn with a wrench (was a little loose). I snugged the nut down against the back of the caliper then tightened back down the mounting nut/bolt, then with a plate wrench centered the brake. Basically, squeeze the lever a few times to see which pad is making contact with the rim first and then use the bolt on the back of the caliper to center it. Basically it will rotate on the mounting bolt and won't scrape your fork or anything. Try that if you haven't done so already. If you have then I am at a bit of a loss.

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Cannondale Synapse (alu)...it works

If your certain that the housing length is correct, and the caliper is properly centered with the center/attaching bolt, you can adjust the small Allen screws on the side of the caliper to change the spring tension.

Thanks guys...some good suggestions. I will check the nut and the spring tension.
I think that the nut will do the trick as mentioned by 1spd will do the trick.

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http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 87f433.jpg

Able length is important as well. Totally forgot about that. If too short it will actually pull the brake to one side. Hope it works for you, let us know how it goes.

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Cannondale Synapse (alu)...it works

Also, what type of cables are you using. I found in the past that Yokozuna cables were much too stiff for my Zero Gravity brakes. Once I moved away from Yokozuna, I had no more problems. I have not tried the Yokozunas with my current new Red brakes.

I use Gore shift cabels and Dura Ace brake cables

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http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 87f433.jpg

You need a 13 wrench to center the brakes, check if the outer cable isn't to long as it pushes the brake off center. and you need to install the brakes with the rivnut and tighten the allen bolt.

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I think I manage to install the brakes properly. Thanks everybody!

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http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 11af34.jpg
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 87f433.jpg

Cable length is the solution. I use Yokozuna cables with planet X CNC brakes and the cable length has to be spot on.

I use only Yolozuna on my two road bikes and TT bike and have no problem with any of my brakes - standard dual-pivot Red, new Aerolink single pivot Red and Tririg Omega.

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EVO Hi-Mod | 9070 Di2 | Rotor 2Inpower | Aeolus TLR 3/5
P5 | 9070 Di2 | Rotor 2Inpower | Aeolus TLR 7
T1 | Power2Max Type S | Rolf Prima FX58/Zipp Super 9 Disc
SuperX Hi-Mod Disc | Sram Red | Power2Max NG

Cable length or housing length??

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Ninja

I have myself the same problems.
Look the pic when i release the tension with the cable. And the rear is tight and centered.

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Ninja

I doubt this is the factory method, but here goes.

It's 70% housing length (too much/too little pushes/pulls on the caliper),
10% using a 13?mm open-end wrench on the pivot nut (to get in the ballpark on center)
20% spring preload (use maximum both sides, then tune one side to get equal contact),

Don't get hung up how the pad position looks when the brakes are open.
It only matters that they touch the rim equally and doesn't flex the rim to the side.

Much like front derailleur setup, trial and error is your friend.

b c-ing u

ok, I will try that
thanks

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Ninja