hi,

I was wondering if I am the only person that has some minor problems with the setup of my new Sram Red single pivot brakes. I don't know why but I am not satisfied with the setup. Somehow the brakes won't center the way it should and every time I brake the brakepads are not pushed on the rim at the same moment. Most of the time one brakepad is faster on the rim. After braking the brakepads come back to the original position but one of the brakepads rubs the wheel. I have to turn the brake by hand and center it myself. To avoid this, I leave more space between brakepads and rim, but that leaves me with a lever feel that I don't like. The brake cable lenght is fine but something is not right.
I hope that I you understand what the "problem" is. Can you help me out?

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Specialized Tarmac S-works SL4
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 11af34.jpg

Is the rear nut tight? I don't mean the one that is on the other side of the fork. The one right on the back of the caliper. Typically this one has flat sides on it so you can put a plate wrench on it to center it once you have the brake mounted. I noticed was having the same problem with my record brakes. I loosened up the mounting nut (one going thru the fork) and then noticed that that nut right on the back of the caliper was pretty easy to turn with a wrench (was a little loose). I snugged the nut down against the back of the caliper then tightened back down the mounting nut/bolt, then with a plate wrench centered the brake. Basically, squeeze the lever a few times to see which pad is making contact with the rim first and then use the bolt on the back of the caliper to center it. Basically it will rotate on the mounting bolt and won't scrape your fork or anything. Try that if you haven't done so already. If you have then I am at a bit of a loss.

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09 Pinella w/ Record 10spd
http://1spd.blogspot.com/

If your certain that the housing length is correct, and the caliper is properly centered with the center/attaching bolt, you can adjust the small Allen screws on the side of the caliper to change the spring tension.

Thanks guys...some good suggestions. I will check the nut and the spring tension.
I think that the nut will do the trick as mentioned by 1spd will do the trick.

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Specialized Tarmac S-works SL4
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 11af34.jpg

Able length is important as well. Totally forgot about that. If too short it will actually pull the brake to one side. Hope it works for you, let us know how it goes.

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09 Pinella w/ Record 10spd
http://1spd.blogspot.com/

Also, what type of cables are you using. I found in the past that Yokozuna cables were much too stiff for my Zero Gravity brakes. Once I moved away from Yokozuna, I had no more problems. I have not tried the Yokozunas with my current new Red brakes.

I use Gore shift cabels and Dura Ace brake cables

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Specialized Tarmac S-works SL4
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 11af34.jpg

You need a 13 wrench to center the brakes, check if the outer cable isn't to long as it pushes the brake off center. and you need to install the brakes with the rivnut and tighten the allen bolt.

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I think I manage to install the brakes properly. Thanks everybody!

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Specialized Tarmac S-works SL4
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/ac11 ... 11af34.jpg

Cable length is the solution. I use Yokozuna cables with planet X CNC brakes and the cable length has to be spot on.

I use only Yolozuna on my two road bikes and TT bike and have no problem with any of my brakes - standard dual-pivot Red, new Aerolink single pivot Red and Tririg Omega.

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R5 VWD | 2008 SRAM Red | Rotor 3D+ SRM | Zipp 101s/Enve 3.4s
S5 Team | 2012 SRAM Red | Rotor 3D+ SRM | Enve 6.7s
P3C | Zipp Vuka Aero/R2C | Omega | FSA SRM | Zipp 808/Super 9 Disc
T1 | Scatto | Rolf Prima FX58