losing 1000g
Moderator: robbosmans
As title, id like to hear some suggestions on best way to lose 1000g off this build, I think its about 7.8, will weigh tomorrow.
This will be my crit racer this season. There are plenty of places to lose however concerned that the somewhat wobbly frame wont do justice to upgrades. (nevermind the fit in the photo, far from perfect atm)
Whatever the upgrades, Id like them to be "top of line" as id eventually move them to a better frame.
Perhaps the new sram red?
tubes are 76g
brakes are tektro, chaniset is non series r600 didnt have the guts to weigh.
seatpost stem bar 3t pro
pedals keo blade ti
cassette ultegra
chain & rear mech 105
front mech DA 7900
shitfers 105
saddle 137g
so all oveer the place
Untitled by canbakay, on Flickr
This will be my crit racer this season. There are plenty of places to lose however concerned that the somewhat wobbly frame wont do justice to upgrades. (nevermind the fit in the photo, far from perfect atm)
Whatever the upgrades, Id like them to be "top of line" as id eventually move them to a better frame.
Perhaps the new sram red?
tubes are 76g
brakes are tektro, chaniset is non series r600 didnt have the guts to weigh.
seatpost stem bar 3t pro
pedals keo blade ti
cassette ultegra
chain & rear mech 105
front mech DA 7900
shitfers 105
saddle 137g
so all oveer the place
Untitled by canbakay, on Flickr
Get some used 2010/2011 303 tubulars with veloflex for race day (you do not appear to have a country road at your back door). Add light brakes, bar wrap, and one of those noisy sram red cassettes (for race wheels). That is the max you should do to it. Otherwise sell it and get a new bike. It is a great bike. Ride it and be happy.
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R600 chainset is quite heavy ~900g inc BB as are the shifters, mech e.t.c
You could buy a new SRAM RED that is about ~1800g so you will save around 300-400g that way. I would bid on ebay for s/h dura ace 7800 mech and get a fibre lyte cage and pulleys for it (or an ultegra 6600 if your budget is smaller). Along with alloy bolts you should see a meh that weighs 165g for alot less than SRAM red. Even a s/h 7900 chainset will weight about 750g including BB. Saving so far 205g.
Dura ace cassette weigh in at 162g for a 10 speed close ratio. Your ulgetra will be over ~230g. so some more savings.
Shifters again will loose some weight. However I would go with Campag it will be cheaper.
Sticking with 10 speed
Campag new 2012/13 centaur 10 speed carbon cranks 667g with c/b yours ~810g
Power torque cups 72g yours ~90
Record 10 speed shifter 324g yours ~460g+
Record 10 speed mech 187g ~ yours 220g
Record 10 speed front mech braze on 75g ~yours 95g
Cassette record 10 speed 188g yours about 230g
Planet X brakes 205g saving maybe 100g over your brakes
saving ~490g
11 speed record is even lighter.
So 490g with a record/Centaur 10 speed groupset.
Tubular wheels could be build at around 1000g saving 435g and another 100g by moving to tubular tyres. So theres your 1kg.
You could buy a new SRAM RED that is about ~1800g so you will save around 300-400g that way. I would bid on ebay for s/h dura ace 7800 mech and get a fibre lyte cage and pulleys for it (or an ultegra 6600 if your budget is smaller). Along with alloy bolts you should see a meh that weighs 165g for alot less than SRAM red. Even a s/h 7900 chainset will weight about 750g including BB. Saving so far 205g.
Dura ace cassette weigh in at 162g for a 10 speed close ratio. Your ulgetra will be over ~230g. so some more savings.
Shifters again will loose some weight. However I would go with Campag it will be cheaper.
Sticking with 10 speed
Campag new 2012/13 centaur 10 speed carbon cranks 667g with c/b yours ~810g
Power torque cups 72g yours ~90
Record 10 speed shifter 324g yours ~460g+
Record 10 speed mech 187g ~ yours 220g
Record 10 speed front mech braze on 75g ~yours 95g
Cassette record 10 speed 188g yours about 230g
Planet X brakes 205g saving maybe 100g over your brakes
saving ~490g
11 speed record is even lighter.
So 490g with a record/Centaur 10 speed groupset.
Tubular wheels could be build at around 1000g saving 435g and another 100g by moving to tubular tyres. So theres your 1kg.
R600 cranks-> this generation Sram Red (in 6 months when they become affordable 2nd hand if you are on a budget).
Wheels. (seriously.....that'll do 2/3 of the mass).
Brakes, Bars, shifters, seat pillar, stem......do those on a $/g basis to finish it off
Tape to deda foam (or similar) next time it needs changing.
Bottle cages?....what do you have??
Wheels. (seriously.....that'll do 2/3 of the mass).
Brakes, Bars, shifters, seat pillar, stem......do those on a $/g basis to finish it off
Tape to deda foam (or similar) next time it needs changing.
Bottle cages?....what do you have??
Updated: Racing again! Thought this was unlikely! Eventually, I may even have a decent race!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
Edit: 2015: darn near won the best South Island series (got second in age
-group)..woo hoo Racy Theremery is back!!
Is it even worth it if you're racing crits? Spending loads of money just to see it get ruined when you crash.
I'd spend the money on a good bike fit if you can sort it yourself. Also, some better brakes, Tektros are woeful.
What shoes do you have? Worth investing in a decent pair that fit you perfectly.
I'd spend the money on a good bike fit if you can sort it yourself. Also, some better brakes, Tektros are woeful.
What shoes do you have? Worth investing in a decent pair that fit you perfectly.
thanks for the suggestions, guys.
(some additions: crits and road races)
I do have a set of 404 tubs with veloflex but i wanna get it down by 900-1000 on its current configuration.
-50g from inner tubes
Chainset and brakes HAVE to go they really are terrible compared to the 7900 on my other bike especially.
Lots to lose from the cables
the bar tape it lizard skin race ones with about 20% trimmed off so they came in under 50g
(ideas about the campy way im gonna give some thought to, definitely an option there)
Ive been very impressed with the new red shifting, had the old version before, wasnt impressed with that.
I had a bike fit on a different bike so will be able to dial this accordingly (tomorrow)
got bont vaypors fit like a glove
a full change to red would save ___ working on it (and it looks like i may be able to get it on a good deal)
(some additions: crits and road races)
I do have a set of 404 tubs with veloflex but i wanna get it down by 900-1000 on its current configuration.
-50g from inner tubes
Chainset and brakes HAVE to go they really are terrible compared to the 7900 on my other bike especially.
Lots to lose from the cables
the bar tape it lizard skin race ones with about 20% trimmed off so they came in under 50g
(ideas about the campy way im gonna give some thought to, definitely an option there)
Ive been very impressed with the new red shifting, had the old version before, wasnt impressed with that.
I had a bike fit on a different bike so will be able to dial this accordingly (tomorrow)
got bont vaypors fit like a glove
a full change to red would save ___ working on it (and it looks like i may be able to get it on a good deal)
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- in the industry
- Posts: 5777
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- Location: Glermsford, Suffolk U.K
- Contact:
Sometimes we want to loose weight of our bike just to loose weight. Performance gains can be secondary they are to me. Any if the racing is somewhere hilly or the circuit hasd alot of tight bends do there is a fair bit of acceleration then a lighter bike does help a little bit but it mostly all down to the legs.
This is WW if the OP wants to loose 1 kg of his bike them thats what he wants. I ahve taken 1 kg of my Trek and want to loose and 1 kg, nowt wrong with that.
To the OP sometimes of the slf wheels are heavy and more expensive than the handbuilt alternative.
This is WW if the OP wants to loose 1 kg of his bike them thats what he wants. I ahve taken 1 kg of my Trek and want to loose and 1 kg, nowt wrong with that.
To the OP sometimes of the slf wheels are heavy and more expensive than the handbuilt alternative.
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Yes seriously!
I chose the fulcrums for several reasons over weight - could have built a set of alphas for lot less but i wanted the smooth hubs id seen on the campy version, they are really really stiff and they do look great (not so much in the photo, granted) they are reasonably light too. after all, they are training wheels!
the point is, i want 1kg off this build. (not taking account to the the 200 some grams lost with the 404 tubs on.
whatever upgrade will happen, they will go to an eventual ww build later in the year, which is when ill pop the old stuff on this frame (to keep as the racer).
thats why i rather keep the purchases 'good enough' for a ww build.
eyeing tuned new red.
I chose the fulcrums for several reasons over weight - could have built a set of alphas for lot less but i wanted the smooth hubs id seen on the campy version, they are really really stiff and they do look great (not so much in the photo, granted) they are reasonably light too. after all, they are training wheels!
the point is, i want 1kg off this build. (not taking account to the the 200 some grams lost with the 404 tubs on.
whatever upgrade will happen, they will go to an eventual ww build later in the year, which is when ill pop the old stuff on this frame (to keep as the racer).
thats why i rather keep the purchases 'good enough' for a ww build.
eyeing tuned new red.