Just wondering if anyone can help me with a bit of an issue with a Novatec F482 rear wheel hub.
I've just had to replace the rear nearside hub bearing; nothing complicated with that. However, if I now tighten the QR to normal pressure, there would appear to be too much preload on the bearing & while freewheeling the cranks rotate. Any suggestions please.

Simple IMHO. UNscrew the DS end cap a little.
Done ( I suggest some blue Loctite on the threads).

Louis

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Hi Louis,
That was quick! I've done as you say & it does work. Definitely need to Lockthread the end caps as they are now only just finger tight. Just wondering why, originally, the end caps were so tight.
Many thanks,
Mike

One of the bearings is not quite pressed all the way in. this allows the endcaps to press the inner races together and load the bearings sideways.
I would try pressing on the bearings again. Occasionally you need to pull the bearing back out slightly and then press back in.

I'll try pressing the bearings in a bit more & also ,maybe, removing & trying again. Never like knocking them out again as it's not good for the bearing. Will get back later tomorrow (now 8/30pm in UK & watching "Sports Personality of the Year"!)

Thanks again for the info.

Mike

So, an update.
Tried pressing the bearing further home....no difference.
Removed bearing & tried again....no difference.
Ended up using Louis's suggestion of finger tight end caps & Lockthread. Doesn't seem ideal, just hope the end caps stay put.

I've put together a few hundred wheels with these hubs. The end caps are properly installing by nailing them tight. Can't give a torque value, but it's tight. If it doesn't work with the caps tight, it's not right.

When you took out the cassette body, a rubber seal/washer almost definitely got left in the drive ring cavity. Fish that out with your finger and slip it on to the inboard side of the cassette body. It gives a solid hint of which side is which. It slips past the pawls and seats down, it is the seal that protects the internals at the cassette body/drive ring interface. High chance that seal is maladjusted.

If that doesn't work, pull the axle and make sure that's clean and not damaged.

Last, it's not impossible to ding the hub shell when you change bearings. That's sort of a worst case. I've done it once, everything felt fine until the end caps got tight and then it gets real gritty and sticky.

*edit* if you installed a new cassette body when you replaced the bearing, there's like a 99% chance you have two seals there - the one that got left behind when you took the old cassette body off and then one that came with the new. I did that the first time I changed cassette body to prep for a Campagnolo build.

Update number 2.
Checked the freehub rubber seal & everything's OK. (I didn't use a new freehub so definitely not 2 seals). Took everything apart & re-assembled but still back to finger tight for the end caps & Loctited.

After rereading your original post, I realise it couldn't be the hub bearings, only the freehub bearings.
Are you missing the axle spacer that goes between the right hub shell bearing and the left freehub body bearing? What about the spacer that goes between the two freehub bearings?

No, the axle spacer is present & correct, so can't be that.

Hub NOVATEC F482SB
I have some issues with freehub bearings. after some 100km rear hub wasnt smoooth.
I take off freehub, beraings in hub are perfect, in freehub not roll nice.
I take out bearings from freehub and they roll nice. Place them back and again dont roll good. Is possible bearing is too tight in his place?
I have no special tool for bearing replacment - just hammer and aluminium "tool".

And little screw on freehub body wasnt full tighten (to reach bearing puter shell) - almost new hub.

cheers

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Jobs done - little sandpaper (1000grid) - it looks bearings are too tight in place.

and much better than a hammer

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