Quote:
shadwell
Dog,
Follow the instruction re temp and duration... to cover your ass in case of delamination of any other anomoly (not saying they will but ec etc).
I currently run A-ones and MTB Ones.. have been with bont for over 2 ears now from Gen 1...
I have heat formed all to date.. and learned a bit along the way, some of which is now included in Bont's instructions. I have a good relationship with Alex, Steve and CLaire at Bont...
Wear a slightly thicker sock than usual when moulding to give a mm or so's clearnace around the foot... feet swell under load and temp but you will have enither when youheat form so llow for t a little.
If you have some pressure ponts in the sandard form, use a 3mm foam (old insole cut to shapee) to create a spacer for the area of pressure, this will ease out the pressure spot and leave clearance post mould.
Carry out the mould without cleats and put a towell on the floor to stand on.
HEat as per instruvtion, fit and tigten to a reasonable level (enough force to create tension in the shoe, but not so much as to cloase the shoe in more than necessary...
Once done stand on you fore fott on the towel... this will engage the muscles and tendons in the foot in a similar fashion as applying load when pedalling (not identical as its not dynamic... but better than when the foot is under no load...) You now have a foot in s imilar form to that when you are pealing and th eform will give you a better fit when riding....
Mintain the poistion until the shoes have largely cooled.... then sit and keep them on til they are fully cooled...
Then whip them off, remove the shims and socks and put on normal scks and refit... checking for any remaining pressure points.. and redo with addtional shimming on those area's if required....
Then spend some time in them and don't over react to the diference in firmness this will becom second nature ... but you o need to pay attention to area's of pressure excessive looseness etc....
Hope this is helpful...
PS expect the sole rubbers to fall off despite the screws, use contact adhesive to bond and hold in place with the screws... they hang on pretty well after this....
Also check the ratchet scews after the first few uses as these may also have loosened off...
Also Lube the ratchet to help delay corrosion....
All in i enjoyed my Bont's but have recently returned to Sidid Ergo 2's... fo a multitude of issue's largely brought about due to the changes in distribution in Australia, and corresponding errors and delays....
Hope you enjoy yours.....
As an aside, note Bont have relatively little heel lift relative tothe foe foot, and this may impact fit and suitability for certain foot types...
I have been running Bonts (currently Vaypors but I also have a set of Zeros that I'm in the process of moulding for TTs) for racing in the UK and Belgium as a semi-pro for the last 3 seasons. I love them. Stiffest things on the market by far, and certainly one of the best cycling related purchases I've made.
I have to say that although the moulding process relieves most comfort issues that may be inherent from the stock last, I have noticed a couple of issues that are worth noting.
For me, the left shoe fits like a glove. The right one, not so much.
Issues that I've had are,
>that the ratchet would keep popping open when I tried to do it up tight. This, I noticed was because the placement of the ratchet was located on the 'bone' on the outside of my foot. The ladder would enter the ratchet at a shallow angle and not 'freely' grip. I got around this by effectively 'raising' the ratchet from the shoe by using 2x1mm washers between the mount and the ratchet. The ladder is now gripped firmly in the ratchet.
>that the heel cup (right shoe again) seems to have movement. I admit that his must either have to do with my right foot being slightly different shape to the left, or that is a tiny bit smaller (although multiple fittings inc. 1x Steve Hogg method have confirmed that there's nothing out of the ordinary). I have tried standing in the shoes when moulding and applying pressure on the forefoot, as when pedalling. I have also tried holding the heel cup onto my calcaneus (heel) whilst moulding. My (DIY) solution for the moment has been to use something that I found in a local cobblers, to 'grip' my heel more tightly, although it's hardly odeal. It's basically a bit of adhesive backed suede leather with a very thin strip of padding.
Any ideas anyone?
I'm spend a lot of time pedalling at 400w+, heel down, and anything touching my heels is a nightmare!!!
I've contacted the UK rep regarding full custom moulding, but given the expense, I'm inclined to keep working on the moulding. I'm still convinced that the product is top, but if I have to think about anything but racing when I'm racing, it's hardly ideal.
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