As you have seen, the gluing of tubular tires is not particularly difficult, but it does require some care and attention to be spent. There are no short-cuts.
First, having a clean, uncontaminated substrate is a must. As much as possible, the rim must be clean and free of grease, oil or grime as is possible. That means the first glue that goes down on the rim should be laid on a surface that has been stripped clean and wiped-down with alcohol. That is not to say that when you re-glue a wheel that you always have to strip-off the old glue. If the old glue was done correctly, you should still have a good base layer down on which to lay new final layers. If, however, there is grit and grime inn the glue, it is unlikely that you will be able to get that off. If you leave it like that, it will form 'weak spots' in the glue job, which could compromise your wheel.
In the 'Road' section, we have a thread on gluing tires. That would be a good place to start. I would personally recommend gluing the MTB tubulars in a fashion similar to the gluing of 'cross tires as opposed to road tires, but the basic principals (the application of many, thin layers on a clean rim; the application of glue to the base tape; and, the curing between layers) still apply.
by the 'cross method, do you mean glue + tape? i've not yet had to remove a CX tire with that method -- does the belgian tape typically come off when the tire is pulled?
i'm about to make the foray into MTB tubular.
when geoff speaks (or writes!), i listen!!