The black shims on top to the left on the BB30 bearings you won't have to use. Just for mtbcrankset when having 68mm bottombracket so saving some weight for free

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/jonas l
http://cerrol.wordpress.com (my cyclingblog)

Most of the pros use the old RED front der with a steel cage. Let us know how the new one works if you ride/race in mud.

Well... yes and no. It really depends on the course. In races I rarely shift into the big ring. Cross races are like a circus and a 39x11 or 42x11 is plenty big for even the fastest paved sections. In short I wouldn't lose too much sleep over FD selection other than one that can hold up best banging into stuff

The handlebar came in the mail today, I was really pleased with this piece as well. 240g; and it came with the bartape for free! Best 79$ ever spend.

Glad you are happy with the bars! Mine came in at 235g, just 36g more than my Ergonova Pro bars of the same size.

Got pretty much everything yesterday, I'm glad with what I got.

The frame came at 1555g, naked with water bottle bolt, seatpost clamp & derailleur hanger. Brand new from Cannondale, looks great. From memory, the crank was at 632g with the original chainring. I will swap them for 34-50 (SRAM red black) for the summer, then the 36-46 for CX. I think the fork was 502g (with the expander stuck in it). FSA provide a super light model with the headset, not sure if I'll swap it.

Since it's my first build from scratch, I have to figure out how to assemble the headset; and I need to get my bearing pressed in my frame since I don't have the proper tool to do it.

the easton compression plug didn't work for me since with the brakes i used i had very severe brake chatter. that moved the plug slowly out of the steerer and increased headset play after just half an hour to "unrideable".
got better with extralite ultrastar in that play didn't increase, but off course i still had brake chatter...

Thanks for the heads up. I’ll try this one first, then the one with the FSA headset and look for that if it doesn’t work.

Just an update:
I convinced myself that the “gray” SRAM red would do the trick (I have the black one on my TT bike and I love the look), so I bought some used 2011 SRAM red shifters & derailleurs.
But yesterday I was so happy when I got the frame that I decided that the red black would be a better option. So I lose my mind and bought new SRAM red black rear derailleur and shifter. Since the previous shifters came with the front derailleur as well, I now have a mini red group for sale.
Also, I had gray and black Shorty ultimate I intended to swap from my other CX bike. But again I was so happy when I got my stuff yesterday that I just bought the black and red version. I’ll give it a try, but my intention is to swap the red components on the black set on the grey one, so I can have an all black set of ultimate.
blingweenies I know

I can really recommend the Berner cable hanger. It was amazing to see and feel how this quite flexible (and light) carbon plate removes brake chatter without modulating the absolute brake power to much. Beforehand I actually had the same problems even using an oversized steerer tube. The brake shudder always "destroyed" the correct headset play after one race.

I should update this post very soon. Got pretty much everything, just need to put it together. Anyone know where I can get a BB30 tool (for bearing installations) for cheap?

I suck at updates!
the bike is done for some times now, but I couln't transfer the pictures from my phone. Got it right now, another update should come shortly


I changed the crank for a SRAM force BB30, since the other I bought was BBright and I hate spacers and all. I add the 50T-36T SRAM red black chainring; I keep the 46 for later this summer.
I didn't get the chance to ride the bike outside yet, but will do shortly.
The only incoming change is a 100mm step (instead of 90mm), Easton EA90...

Fine looking bike. I love that red frame.

The only problem I see on your bike (and lots of others) is the seatpost. Land on the wrong spot in a race and all of a sudden your saddle is facing up (or down) too far to ride. BTDT I've moved to a series of 2-bolt seatposts for racing cross. Zipp on one bike. Syncros on another.

JRA you're fine.

HTH

M

Thanks for the input. You are 100% right. I would like to try this one for some time, but I have the impression I'll have to change soon, especially if I land hard on the saddle.

^ definitely a 2 bolt seatpost for stated reason... But other than that... That bike is hottt fire!