Hollowgram sl on super 6 evo
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- Posts: 480
- Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:28 am
you have to take them in and out. the shims are there to help adjust the preload on the bearings and make up any intolerences in the BB shell. If you cant be bothered doing it properly, take it to a bike shop, or just put a random amount in there and *f##k* your BB bearing.
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- Shop Owner
- Posts: 1980
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
- Location: NoVA/DC
Best way to do it requires the crank arm to be removed/reinstalled one time.
First, assemble everything as normal, with ZERO preload shims, but with the wavy washer. Make sure the crank bolt is tightened fully and properly. Then see how many preload shims you can easily slip into the wavy washer gap. Remove the one crank arm, install that many washers, reinstall crank arm. Done.
Beyond that, I completely agree with Tokyo Drifter.
First, assemble everything as normal, with ZERO preload shims, but with the wavy washer. Make sure the crank bolt is tightened fully and properly. Then see how many preload shims you can easily slip into the wavy washer gap. Remove the one crank arm, install that many washers, reinstall crank arm. Done.
Beyond that, I completely agree with Tokyo Drifter.
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- Shop Owner
- Posts: 1980
- Joined: Sat Jun 13, 2009 4:02 am
- Location: NoVA/DC
ms6073 wrote:If the wave-spring washer is supposed to be slightly deformed with the proper amount of shims, using the method outlined, wouldn't the correct number of shims be n + 1?
It should be the maximum number of shims while the wavy washer still waves. This ensures that the side load on the bearings is only as hard as the wavy washer can push, but leaves almost no room for lateral loads to make the crank slide left-right on the spindle. So it's n, with n being the maximum number of shims you can slip into the space created by the wavy washer.
For clarity, when I say "space", I'm not talking about a circumferential gap, merely the valleys between the waves.
I hope I didn't make it seem more confusing than it is.
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