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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:54 am
Posts: 124
I've currently got a Canyon Ultimate CF in a 58 that weighs 7,315g and I'm trying to see if I can get it under 7kg. I know I can lose 150g on the tyres and tubes, I have new handlebars coming for Xmas that will shave some more weight but I'm wondering how much I can save on the cables.

They are the OEM Shimano ones that came with my Ultegra shifters. I've tried searching on here but best I can see on the listings is a Dura Ace cabled bike at 264g all in. Are Dura Ace lighter than the SIS ones? (I expect so)

What have people found have been their savings on weight when switching cables? I am particularly interested in the Jagwire Racer kit as it's cheap in comparison to iLinks/Nokon/Powercordz etc which I'm not sure I could afford right now and a complete set of the Jagwire in the listings says 180g out the box. I'm trying to avoid taking all my cables off to weigh them until I actually plan to replace them rather than having to re-fit and then swap out again or have the bike out of commission whilst ones are ordered so mainly interested in knowing what savings people achieved with various systems?

Thanks


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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:04 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:12 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am
Posts: 1132
Location: UK
Here's a link to an excellent blog by Jason at Fairwheel Bikes who's a regular contributor here (as madcow) that has some comparisons.

http://fairwheelbikes.com/cycling-blog/products/aican-bungarus-superlight.html


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:28 am
Posts: 479
wtf?

tubes and ultegra instead of tubulars and a lightweight groupset and you're wanting to make a light bike...?

all inner cables weigh much the same, but that doesn't bother me, i don't use brake cables. it is the ultimate in lightweight performance.

you can save a little by getting i-links, but it won't make a noticable difference. plus, they suck to install and since you're (a) asking quite innane questions and (b) don't sound like you know how to work on a push bike, I would avoid them. save your money for better wheels, tyres, or basically anything that will have a tangible performance impact.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:54 am
Posts: 124
Not all of us have the money to go splashing out on new Wheelsets or bling components and I'm just trying to get a LIGHTER bike, as light as I possibly can manage given the current build and the money I have to spend so cabling was a consideration hence my question. Whilst I can find answers to what someone's total iLink system weighed in at or similar, I've not been able to see what this saves over a bog standard set-up.

Yes I know, I could save up for new parts but I like what I have and just trying some little things to lighten it up. How about next time you try to be a little less patronising.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:28 am
Posts: 479
I saved about 40 grams for the brakes and 25 on gears, you'll then have to add around 20g of shrink wrap and a few zip ties to stop them rattling.

Different frames use different amounts of housing, so savings will vary.

I links perform terribly and given that you can't be bothered taking the time to remove your cables to weigh them (or lack the ability to do so) I would suggest that finnicky, over-rated cable housing is probably not ideal for you.

If you want to go fast, get a HRM or a used power meter, some foam rollers and a coach.

If you want to learn about maintenance, take some lessons, or buy a book, or buy a shitty old $100 bike to fiddle around with, or buy some basic tools.

If you want to make your bike lighter and/or nicer to ride, i-links won't do it.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:54 am
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It's not I can't be bothered or incapable but it would mean unwrapping the bars, disconnecting everything and then re-fitting everything and setting it all back up, only to then have to unwrap the bars again to fit new handlebars in the new year and then possibly all new cables too so was trying to get an idea of weights instead and would rather spend the time in the evenings I do have riding rather than taking apart a bike unnecessarily. If I don't get the answers I need then I may just have to weigh the cables but that isn't a first option when there are usually helpful people on this site.

The first part of your post was helpful, the rest pointless as you know nothing about me.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:28 am
Posts: 479
ffs just weigh a length of gear and brake housing, measure how much housing you have on your bike (you don't need to uninstall anything to do that) and get a calculator to crunch some numbers.

I'm pretty sure from all your comments that you're a total gumby. meh.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 1:49 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:08 pm
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tokyo ,get of the guys back and stop being a ar%e


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:26 pm
Posts: 827
This is a message to moderators -

contributors who are just darn right rude for no discernable reason should be warned and then banned from using this forum if they persist.

Tokyo just butt out and don't come back.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:54 am
Posts: 124
Thanks guys, I was only after a bit of feedback along the lines of "I swapped to Nokon and saved 80g, iLinks saved me 100g etc"

I just like the idea of trying to get to a 7kg bike, it's a round number and I'm realistic that it will never be a featherweight bike as I don't have the money to splash on it or that I'll really even notice the 300g difference, I'm simply trying to see where some relatively inexpensive changes in the grand scheme of things might take me.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 2:08 pm
Posts: 1365
mattyb95 , I use the KCNC inner cables .They are quite light and only around £5 a cable . A cheap way to save some weight.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2008 1:13 am
Posts: 837
Location: Utah
Matty, great question. This is WW, afterall. :D :thumbup:

From FWB (these are estimated total sets with ferrules, cable tips, liners, seals, etc…):
Bungarus 83.1 g
Alligator 102 g
Ashima 131.4 g
Gore UL 129.7 g
Gore Std 144.8 g
Nokon 149.2 g
Shimano 147.3 g
Campagnolo 151.1 g

Of cousre there are other cables, and things can be mixed, but hopfully this can give an idea.
(this link was noted above)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Feb 09, 2005 4:51 am
Posts: 1684
Having used Nokons back in the Dark Ages when they were the only trick in town, I would say its a big hassle for very little gains (in terms of both shifting performance and weight lost).

Quality tyres and tubes will save the most gram/$. Other items like light cranks, saddles, seatpost, stems, bars will be more worth the money, time and energy in my experience.


:beerchug:


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:57 pm 
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Tubbie Guru

Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 2:20 am
Posts: 5779
Location: Belgium
Hi,

I don't have the exact numbers but this suggestion should be close to the lightest out there without breaking the bank:

Fasi Niro Glide (shift+ brake) outer cables (these are mostly offered complete sets, i.e. with high quality steel cables)

Next step up would be to replace these steel inners with the appropriate Powercordz.

Be gentle on the Niro, they're using aluminium coils so they're not as flex happy as steel ones.

Ciao, ;)

_________________
Being a snob is an expensive hobby.


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Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 4:57 pm 


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 11, 2012 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 10, 2012 11:54 am
Posts: 124
The difference between listings on the FWB is not as much as I was expecting to be honest. A WW listing for Shimano gave a total of 264g but the FWB suggests nearer 150 so I can only assume the WW is either wrong or based on a massive bike with vast amounts of cables!


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