Digging the single 54T chainring

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Slam your stem.

Benrosa....You need to blow those pics up. Awesome ride. Shows you how far ahead Zipp was back then. I hear that TJ Tollackson (pro triathlete who also races on this bike) will be marketing a modified version of this next year

i would rather go with pearson than TJ product:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=3974505
http://bicycledesign.net/wp-content/upl ... 99x305.jpg

mod: if this is too of topic please move or delete this post.

just built this up today,Its my first TT bike so not sure on my position yet.

cervelo p3
zipp 900 disc
ffwd 58mm front wheel
7800 groupset
vision base bar
profile design clip ons
quarq rotor power meter - will swap between this bike and my road bike
speed play pedals
old stem i had lying around
old saddle i had spare

would lilk to make a few changes
-swap yellow rear tub for a black one
-black stem
- aero tt rings (possibly osymetrics
-omega brakes
-integrated bars

also thinking about removing the zipp stickers to make the disc match my front wheel better. any thoughts?

You should add the "behind the stem modification" to clean up the cable routing.

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BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

Cervelo SLC 5890g/12.98 lbs

yeah I've seen that mod it looks great, don't really fancy taking a drill to my brand new frame though.

i didn't run the cables internally through the extensions i taped them to the underneaths so they run alongside the stem and then down into the holes.
running them out the back of the extensions or outside the pads had made the cables stick out the side of the bike and into the air, the way i've done it was the cleanest way i could figure out.
and i've made them as short as i thought possible..........

if anyone has any pics or suggestions of how to make the cabling better (without using a drill) I'd be pleased to hear them.
think i'll go centre pull at the front when i buy the aero brake to reduce cabling slightly

You could try zip tying the cables to keep them closer to the frame.

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Slam your stem.

Not for the timid but a few "Aero Weenies" have drilled their top tubes for better cable and housing placement.

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-For my next trick I will set myself on fire!
-This board and the world in general would be a much nicer place if everyone could just take themselves a little less seriously.
-Sticky Fingers John Rockefeller
-First one over the cliff wins!

Aero Weenies are about pushing the boundries between weight and watts. If you are only doing one then you are leaving half of the issue on the table.

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BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

Cervelo SLC 5890g/12.98 lbs

storck aero 2 is

I agree, you need both aero and light. It was nerve racking to drill my P3 top tube, but it still feels great and has tidied up the cabling dramatically.

FYI I was thinking of doing a side by side comparison of some TT helmets, if people would be interested? Hopefully including an aero test if the weather allows any time soon! I thought it might be useful as its often difficult to assess how the shape of the helmet works in real life, and just how big or small they are! I've already got a Giro Advantage II, a Giro Selector and a Kask Bambino. Could probably acquire a spuik kronos maybe a bell meteor too.

I think testing aero helmets is a huge waste of time since it depends on the rider and helmet interaction. Putting a helmet on a dummy in a wind tunnel only shows what helmet will be best for the dummy. I would not waste the energy unless you are trying to find the best helmet for you and you only.

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BIG DADDY B FLOW
AERO & LIGHT is RIGHT

Cervelo SLC 5890g/12.98 lbs

i don't dare to drill my focus toptube,
ad some weight with a power2max and osymetric rings
have 3 aero helmets , but still ride a normal helmet.
like it better with running after cycling with a normal helmet, heat issues
guess i am not welcom anymore around here

@ quattrings: nice classical cannondale tt ! perfect build!

left extension?

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sorry vor mai bed englisch!

So many TT bikes....